'•'•;•  2» 


•  ..if  6 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


..  y.-v 

T 


FROM  THE  LIBRARY  OF 
FRANK  J.  KLINGBERG 


«•* 


* ' 


JOHN   L.  STODDARD'S   LECTURES 

THE    RHINE  BELGIUM 

HOLLAND         MEXICO 


Norwood  Press 

J.  S.  Gushing  &  Co.  —  Berwick  &  Smith 
Norwood,  Mass,.,   U.S.A. 


Macdonald  &  Sorts,  Bookbinders,  Boston 


, 
• 

!& 


JOHN  L.  STODDARD'S 
LECTURES 


ILLUSTRATED  AND   EMBELLISHED  WITH  VIEWS  OF  THE 

WORLD'S   FAMOUS   PLACES   AND    PEOPLE,   BEING 

THE   IDENTICAL  DISCOURSES  DELIVERED 

DURING    THE    PAST    EIGHTEEN 

YEARS   UNDER   THE   TITLE 

OF  THE  STODDARD 

LECTURES 


COMPLETE  IN  TEN   VOLUMES 


VOL.    VII 


BOSTON 
BALCH    BROTHERS    CO. 


MDCCCXCVIII 


TOLEDO:    W.    I.    SQUIRE 


OHIO  EDITION,  1000  LIMITED 
No. 


COPYRIGHT,  1898 
BY  JOHN  L.  STODDARD 


ENTERED  AT  STATIONERS'  HALL,  LONDON 
ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED 


Stack 
Annex 


THE    RHINE 


1 57(^20 


THE  leading  rivers  of  our  globe  have  played  a  most 
important  part  in  its  development.  They  are  more 
than  mere  currents  of  descending  water.  Ideas  float 
along  their  surface.  They  have  ever  been  the  great  boundaries 
of  nations.  They  are  the  grand  avenues  of  commerce.  Their 
beds  have  been 
held  sacred  as  the 
dwelling-places  of 
gods.  They  form 
natural  barriers 
to  ambition,  and 
halting-places  for 
conquest.  The 
destinies  of  man- 
kind have,  there- 
fore, been  deter- 
mined by  their 
channels.  Their 
interest  increases 
in  proportion  to 
the  historic  sou- 
venirs which  seem  to  mingle  with  their  foam  and  murmur 
with  their  waves.  In  this  sense  one  of  the  first  among  the 
world's  great  rivers  is  the  noble  Rhine.  Others  can  boast  of 
greater  breadth  and  volume,  a  longer  distance  traversed  to 
the  sea,  and  even  mightier  commerce  borne  upon  their  waves ; 
but  none,  except  the  Nile,  is  richer  in  historic  memories,  and 
even  that,  from  its  remote  antiquity,  cannot  appeal  so  closely 
to  our  sympathies. 


THE   NOBLE    RIVER. 


THE   RHINE 


The  Rhine  is  the  great  avenue  of  central  Europe,  and  on  its 
silver  thread,  for  seven  hundred  miles,  are  strung  the  pearls  of 
love,  adventure,  romance,  tragedy,  and  comedy,  till  one  may 
fancy  it  a  necklace  of  transcendent  value,  rich,  like  the  "  page 

of  knowledge," 
with  the  "  spoils 
of  time."  It  is, 
in  fact,  its  con- 
stant succession 
of  beautiful  and 
historic  objects, 
each  crowned 
with  its  appro- 
priate legend,  that 
gives  to  this 
great  stream  of 
Germany  its 
matchless  charm. 
Viewed  as  a  river 
merely,  the  Hud- 
son is  in  some 
respects  superior 
to  the  Rhine  ;  but 

_     add  to  the  latter 

*  %    • 
.•>,,.*  .  *-  '»      - 

v  .  '  :. 


THE    CASTLE-BORDERED     RHINE. 


the  legends  and 
the  memories  of 
two  t h  ousand 

years,  and  the  scales  turn.  What  wonder,  therefore,  that  the 
Rhine  is  to  the  Germans  what  the  Nile  was  to  the  Egyp- 
tians,—  a  source  of  national  pride  and  delight,  a  never-ending 
theme  of  song  and  story.  Within  its  depths  are  treasures 
of  golden  memories.  Let  down  the  net  of  fancy  at  almost 
any  point,  and  you  can  bring  up  gems  of  greater  value  to  the 
world  than  any  pearls  that  divers  find.  Two  thousand  years 


THE    RHINE 


ago  its  name  was  as 
well  known  beside  the 
Tiber  as  it  is  now 
along  the  Hudson. 
Navigable  for  more 
than  six  hundred  miles 
through  the  very 
heart  of  Europe,  its 
dominion  has  been 
battled  for  through- 
out the  centuries.  Its 
banks  have  echoed 
to  the  shouts  of  war- 
like Gauls,  Teutons, 
Romans,  Franks,  and 
Normans,  and  on  its 
placid  surface  have  been  cast  the  shadows  of  the  world's  great 
conquerors  and  chieftains,  —  Caesar,  Attila,  Charlemagne,  Na- 
poleon, and  Von  Moltke. 

But  to  judge  of  the  power  and  beauty  of  the  Rhine  one 
should  not  view  it  at  random,  but  rather  mark  its  origin  and 
trace  its  growth  along  that  path  which  leads  it  from  a  moun- 
tain rivulet  to  an  imposing  and  majestic  stream.  To  do  this, 


THE    RHINE    AT    OBERWESEL. 


THE   BRIDGE    AT   MAINZ. 


10 


THE   RHINE 


we  should  go  at  the  outset  into  the  heart  of  Switzerland,  and 
stand  before  an  Alpine  glacier,  which,  like  some  awful  pre- 
historic monster,  creeps  forth  in  menace  from  a  sea  of  ice, 
supplied  from  distant  peaks,  whose  summits  pierce  the  azure 
of  the  sky.  There  is  a  practical  as  well  as  a  poetic  side  to 

these  grand  gla- 
ciers. They  are 
not  merely  the 
everlasting  dra- 
pery of  the  Alps, 
folding  them  sum- 
mer and  winter 
in  their  robes  of 
ice.  They  are, 
also,  the  great 
storehouses  from 
which  the  rivers 
of  Europe  are 
replenished ;  for, 
from  the  many 
wounds  inflicted 
on  them  by  the 
arrows  of  the  sun,  their  frigid  life-blood  oozes  fast,  forming  a 
multitude  of  little  torrents  which  finally  unite  to  constitute  one 
glittering  stream.  It  is  in  this  way  that  the  Rhine  is  born.  The 
traveler  can  behold  it  at  the  glacier's  terminus,  leaving  exult- 
ingly  its  ice-bound  cradle,  as  though  rejoicing  in  the  thought  of 
freedom.  The  tourist  must  have  little  imagination  who  can 
stand  beside  this  rivulet,  destined  to  gain,  erelong,  such  vast  pro- 
portions, and  not  compare  it  to  a  human  life :  both  at  the  start 
so  tiny  and  helpless,  so  easily  inclined  in  one  way  or  another; 
yet  fated,  later  on,  perhaps  to  win  the  admiration  of  the  world, 
change,  it  may  be,  the  history  of  nations,  and  ultimately  be 
lost  in  the  two  oceans,  —  one  of  Time,  the  other  of  Eternity. 


AN   ALPINE  GLACIER. 


II 


A  few  miles 
farther  down  its 
course,  we  find 
the  youthful  river 
rushing  on,  ap- 
parently eager  to 
prove  its  new- 
found strength 
and  speed.  Ah, 
river !  I  have 
often  thought, 
you  will  not  soon 
discover  a  safer 
or  more  lovely 
spot  than  this, 
your  mountain- 
girdled  home,  which  you  are  in  such  haste  to  leave.  Care  and 
responsibility  will  come  to  you  soon  enough  ;  and  these  your 
sparkling  waves,  which  can  now  only  glitter  in  the  sun  and 
murmur  in  their  shallow  path,  will  soon  bear  on  their  breast 
the  commerce  of  great  cities,  and  roll  in  majesty  past  many 


THE   CRADLE   OF  THE    RHINE. 


/ 


12 


THE    RHINE 


PFEIFFER'S  GORGE. 


a  lovely  meadow  and  em- 
battled crag.  What  an 
amount  of  life  and  history 
hangs  on  this  little  crystal 
thread ! 

Another  interesting 
point  in  the  development 
of  the  young  Rhine  is 
where  it  is  joined  by  its 
first  tributary.  The  meet- 
ing-place is  in  the  vicinity 
of  one  of  the  most  impres- 
sive spots  in  Europe, 
known  as  "  Pfeiffer's 

Gorge."     Through  this  tremendous  chasm  the  river   Tamina, 

apparently  in  frantic  haste  to  meet  the  Rhine,  has  worn  itself 

a  path.     On  either  side  tower  dark  walls  of  rock,  which  are 

not  merely  perpendicular,  but  actually  bend  toward  each  other, 

so  that  they  seem  about  to  fall   and  fill  the   river  with  their 

mass.      On   one   side,   a   light   wooden   bridge   clings    to    the 

rocks,  as  if  in  fear,  some 

forty     feet     above     the 

stream.    At  first,  I  halted 

at  the  entrance,  afraid  to 

trust   myself   to    such    a 

frail  support;    but,  as  I 

ventured  further  through 

the  gorge,  I  quite  forgot 

where  I  was  walking,  in 

admiration  of  the  place. 

Yet,  for  a  single  moment, 

I  was  never  more  terrified 

in    my  life  than  in  that 

dark  ravine.      When  we 


THE    RHINE  13 

had  entered  it,  quite  unobserved  by  us,  black  clouds  were  roll- 
ing up  their  masses  in  the  summer  sky.  Accordingly,  half  an 
hour  later,  there  suddenly  came  a  blinding  flash,  as  though  the 
blade  of  a  colossal  sword  had  been  swept  downward  through 
the  gorge,  and  then  withdrawn  with  inconceivable  rapidity.  This 
was  succeeded  almost  instantly  by  a  terrific  crash  of  thunder, 
which  fairly  made  our  hearts  stand  still.  Moreover,  that  single 
peal  was  but  the  prelude  to  a  dozen  more,  whose  echoes,  harsh 
and  jagged  as  the  rocks  themselves,  were  hurled  about,  from 
cliff  to  cliff,  until  they  seemed  the  screams 
and  laughter  of  malignant  demons. 

Soon    after   being   reinforced  by 
this  ally,  the   youthful   Rhine  ac- 
quires   an    experience    unlike   all 
others   in    its   history,  by  a  tem- 
porary sojourn  in,  and  identifica- 
tion   with,    Lake    Constance.     A 
prize  too  precious  for  one  nation 
to    defend    seems    this    enchanting 
inland  sea ;   for,  in  its  circuit  of  one 
hundred  miles,  five  different  countries  — 
Bavaria,  Baden,  Austria,  Wurtemberg,  and 

LAKE   CONSTANCE. 

Switzerland  —  encircle  it  like  sentinels.  I 
first  beheld  it  one  evening,  in  1880,  when  on  my  way  to 
the  Passion  Play  at  Ober-Ammergau,  and  I  shall  never  cease 
to  think  with  pleasure  of  the  magic  light,  which  then  fell 
softly  on  the  illumined  shore.  The  lake  itself  lay  like  an 
emerald  shield,  and,  in  the  mirror  of  its  peaceful  flood, 
a  second  town,  the  counterpart  of  that  upon  the  bank,  ap- 
peared to  be  inverted  in  a  sea  of  color;  while  in  the  sunset 
sky  so  many  glorious  hues  were  visible,  that  a  great  treas- 
ure-house of  Nature,  filled  with  materials  for  a  million  rain- 
bows, appeared  to  have  been  broken  open,  and  its  prismatic 
colors  scattered  broadcast. 


THE   RHINE 


Upon  a  gently  sloping  hill  above  Lake  Constance  is  an  old- 
fashioned,  modest  country-house,  which  several  times  within  the 
present  century  has  stood  forth  prominently  on  the  political 
background,  not  alone  of  France,  but  of  the  whole  of  Europe. 
It  is  the  Chateau  of  Arenenberg,  for  years  the  home  of  Jose- 
phine's daughter,  Queen  Hortense,  and  her  son  Napoleon  III. 

It  was  in  1817, 
while  Napoleon 
was  still  a  cap- 
tive at  St.  Helena, 
that  Hortense,  ex- 
iled from  France 
by  the  decision  of 
the  allied  Powers, 
came  to  this  quiet 
resting-place,  hop- 
ing to  end  her 
troubled  life  with 
a  few  years  of 
such  tranquil  hap- 
piness, as  it  had 
not  yet  been  her 
fortune  to  enjoy. 
Here,  in  her  exile,  that  devoted  mother  welcomed  as 
guests  the  famous  men,  who,  during  the  first  empire,  had 
filled  the  world  with  their  renown;  and  they,  in  turn,  in 
this  comparatively  humble  home  of  the  ex-Queen  of  Hol- 
land, loved  to  recall  the  triumphs  of  their  Emperor,  and  tell 
the  stories  of  his  wonderful  campaigns.  This  chateau,  there- 
fore, was  a  school  for  Louis  Napoleon's  ambition ;  and  since 
it  was  from  this,  his  mother's  residence,  that  he  went  forth 
to  become  President  of  the  French  Republic,  and  finally 
the  acknowledged  sovereign  of  France,  Arenenberg  may  be 
regarded  as  the  starting-point  of  that  astonishing  political 


THE   CHATEAU   OF   ARENENBERG. 


THE    RHINE 


THE    BOUDOIR   OF   HORTEXSE. 


her  presence.  Her  portrait  hung  upon 
desk  she  used  stood  in  its  accustomed 
the  harp  her  skillful 
hands  had  often 
waked  to  melody. 
The  musical  accom- 
plishments of  Hor- 
tense  were  remark- 
able, and  it  was  she 
who  composed  the 
words  and  music  of 
that  celebrated  mel- 
ody which  has  become 
one  of  the  national 
airs  of  France :  Par- 
tant  pour  la  Sync. 

In  a  pretty  chapel 
near  the  chateau  is 
a  kneeling:  marble 


cycle,  in  which  Napo- 
leon the  Little  strove 
to  imitate  Napoleon 
the  Great. 

One  summer,  sev- 
eral years  ago,  I  vis- 
ited this  mansion  of 
Napoleonic  memories, 
and  was  admitted  to 
what  had  been  the 
boudoir  of  Queen 
Hortense.  It  seemed 
as  if  she  still  must 
be  residing  here,  for 
everything  recalled 
the  wall ;  the  writing- 
place  ;  and  near  it  was 


THE   CHAPEL   OF  ARENENBERG. 


i6 


THE    RHINE 


statue,  upon  the  pedestal  of  which  is  the  simple  inscription, 
"To  Queen  Hortense,  by  her  son  Napoleon  III."  There  is  a 
look  of  patient  resignation  on  the  sculptured  face,  well  suited 
to  the  character  of  her  whom  it  represents ;  for  her  brave  and 
uncomplaining  spirit  rose  above  her  trials  with  such  heroism 
as  to  force  admiration  of  her  character  even  from  her  enemies. 
Napoleon  frequently  exclaimed  of  her,  "  Hortense  makes  me 
believe  in  virtue."  As  a  child,  she  had  seen  her  father  die 
upon  the  guillotine  amid  the  horrors  of  the  Revolution ;  a 
maiden,  she  had  at  the  command  of  her  mother  sacrificed  her 
own  affections  to  a  political  marriage  which  had  proved  one 
long  agony  to  endure ;  a  mother,  she  had  lost  the  dearly  loved 
child  whom  Napoleon  intended  to  make  his  heir,  and  whose 

little  life  had  been 
the  only  barrier 
to  the  divorce  of 
Josephine ;  a 
queen,  she  had 
watched  the 
hopes  and  for- 
tunes of  herself 
and  friends  go 
down  in  ruin  with 
the  empire ;  a 
daughter,  she 
had  seen  her 
mother  die  bro- 
ken-hearted at 
Malmaison,  and 
Napoleon  wear 

life    in    anguish    on    the    barren    rock    of    St.    Hel- 
What    wonder,    then,    that    wearied    of    the    past    and 
hopeless    of   the   future    she    often    sought    relief    in 
prayer? 


STATl'E   OF   HORTENSE. 


THE    RHINE  17 

Leaving  the  chateau,  I  lingered  in  its  pretty  garden.  Here, 
seated  in  the  shade  of  the  historic  trees  whose  branches  had  so 
often  sheltered  the  daughter  and  the  grandchild  of  Josephine,  I 
realized  the  fact  that  truth  is  sometimes  stranger  than  the  wild- 
est fiction.  For,  when  the 
star  of  Napoleon  had 
apparently  forever 
sunk  behind  the 
sea-girt  rock  of 
St.  Helena,  a 
youth,  whose 
only  fortune 
was  the  fact 
that  he  bore 
his  uncle's 
name,  sat  here 
and  dreamed  of 
an  empire  that  he 
would  one  day  rule. 
Through  intrigue,  chance, 
and  the  notorious  coup  d'etat 

f  THE   GARDEN  AT  ARENENBERG. 

of    1851,    that    dream   was 

realized;  but  the  empire,  after  enduring  twenty  years,  went 
down  in  shame  and  exile ;  and  now,  when  all  is  changed, 
to  this  chateau,  so  haunted  with  sad  memories,  the  ex- 
Empress  Eugenie,  its  present  owner,  still  occasionally  comes, 
to  wander  sadly  through  its  solitudes,  throneless,  childless, 
and  a  widow. 

The  Rhine  is  cosmopolitan.  It  is  not  satisfied  to  linger  in  a 
single  country.  The  narrow  boundaries  of  Switzerland  cannot 
contain  its  rapidly  expanding  volume.  Hence,  leaving  soon  the 
land  of  its  nativity,  it  enters  Germany,  to  which  thenceforth  its 
splendor  and  its  fame  belong.  It  is,  however,  changed.  Its 
sojourn  in  Lake  Constance,  which  is  of  enormous  depth,  has  had 


THE   RHINE 


that  influence  upon  the  river  which  education  and  experience 
impress  upon  a  youth.  Its  character,  like  its  river-bed,  seems 
to  have  deepened  and  broadened.  It  moves  more  steadily  and 
with  less  uproar  and  excitement.  It  has  gained  power  and  vol- 
ume ;  but  it  will  need  them  both,  for  it  is  about  to  encounter 
trial  and  resistance.  As  if  it  had  received  warning  of  the 

approaching 
struggle,  the 
river,  at  some 
distance  from 
the  town, 
seems  to  be 
making  prep- 
aration for 
the  coming 
conflict.  Its 
waves  grow 
agitated,  and 
its  current 
swifter.  A 
murmur  of 
defiance  rises 
from  its 

depths.  Whatever  is  to  be  the  trial,  we  plainly  see  that 
the  young  Rhine  will  meet  it  like  a  hero.  At  last  the 
crisis  comes  ;  for,  at  Schaffhausen,  Nature,  as  if  to  test  the 
strength  of  her  ambitious  child,  has  reared  directly  in  its  path 
a  monstrous  ledge  of  rock,  three  hundred  feet  in  width.  It 
is  useless  !  With  a  shout  of  triumph  in  its  leap  for  life  the 
Rhine  bounds  over  the  cliff,  falls  eighty-five  feet,  extricates 
itself  from  the  seething  depths  below,  shakes  from  its  brow  a 
billion  glittering  drops,  which  sparkle  in  the  sun  like  clouds  of 
diamonds,  and  sweeps  along  unharmed  and  free.  It  is  plain 
that  there  has  been  a  conflict.  The  few  remaining  rocks  that 


•"• 


THE   RHINE   ABOVE   SCHAFFHACSEN. 


THE    RHINE 


still    oppose    the 
river    stand    like 
grim    veterans 
who     have     thus 
far    managed    to 
survive    the    on- 
set,  while  scores 
of  their  compan- 
ions   have     long 
since  disappeared 
from   view,  their 
huge,        dismem- 
bered   bodies 
buried  in  the  tri- 
umphant stream. 
But  our   sympathy  is  not  with   them.     It   is  rather  with  the 
freedom-seeking  Rhine,  which  will  bear  no  restraint,  and  hurls 
itself  against  the  enemy  with  a  roar  of  anger  and  a  shout  of 
victory  that  can  be  heard  for  miles.     Yet,  this  is  not  for  every 
traveler  a  place  of  romance  ;  or  even  if  it  be,  the  terribly  prosaic 
claims  of  hunger 
and   of  thirst  in- 
evitably    silence, 
for    a    time,    his 
dreams    and   fan- 
cies.   Thus,  in  the 
hotel  register    at 
Schaffhausen  are 
these       practical 
lines,     composed 
by  one  who  cer- 
tainly did  not  be- 
lieve in  total  ab- 
stinence : 


20 


THE   RHINE 


"  As  I  stood  just  now  by  the  Falls  of  the  Rhine, 
I  was  suddenly  seized  with  a  fancy  divine  ; 
And  I  thought  to  myself  —  if  these  Falls  of  the  Rhine 
Instead  of  water,  were  only  wine, 
I  should  certainly  choose  them  for  falls  of  mine." 

A  few  hours  after  leaving  Schaffhausen,  the  traveler  in 
Rhineland  reaches,  by  a  trifling  detour,  the  former  paradise  of 
gamblers,  and  the  still  charming  health  resort,  —  Baden-Baden. 

It  were  folly-  to 
pass  this  unno- 
ticed. I  have 
been  sometimes 
asked,  by  persons 
planning  a  Euro- 
pean tour,  "  What 
would  you  recom- 
mend as  the  best 
halting-place 
within  the  limits 
of  southwestern 
Germany,  if  you 
were  pressed  for 


. 

select     but     one 

place  on  the  way  to  Switzerland?"  To  such  a  question  I 
always  answer,  "  Baden-Baden."  It  is  true,  to  do  so  is  select- 
ing from  a  great  embarrassment  of  riches,  but  I  am  sure  the 
choice  of  Baden-Baden  will  not  be  regretted.  Nevertheless,  in 
judging  of  a  place,  how  much  depends  upon  the  accidents  of 
health  and  weather!  A  rainy  day,  a  sleepless  night,  an  inso- 
ent  waiter,  or  an  attempt  at  extortion,  —  any  one  or  all  of  these 
may  tinge  the  fairest  place  with  gloom  ;  and,  even  under  favor- 
able circumstances,  how  many  lovely  scenes  are  spoiled  for  us 
through  some  mistake  which,  if  we  had  been  warned  of  it, 
might  just  as  well  have  been  avoided!  The  warning  to  be 


THE    RHINE 


THE  THEATRE. 


given  in  respect  to  Baden-Baden  is  this :  Do  not  select  for 
your  abode  a  hotel  far  from  the  music,  gaiety,  and  beauty  of 
its  famous  ,-?-  park  ;  for  that  is  the  centre  of  its 

festivities,  the  spot  where 
the  pulse  of  Baden- 
Baden  beats  most 
rapidly.  To  be 
remote  from  this, 
to  hear  its  music 
merely  at  a  dis- 
tance, to  see  the 
promenaders  only 


when  you  walk 
from  your  hotel  to 
do  so,  is  quite  as 

undesirable  as  a  poor  seat  in  a  theatre,  where  you  discern 
only  a  portion  of  the  stage,  and  lose  the  language  of  the 
actors.  But  how  is  one  to  find  a  home  within  this  charming 
neighborhood?  This  was  the  question  which  we  asked  our- 
selves on  the  first 
morning  after  our 
arrival  ;  as,  discon- 
tented with  our  rooms, 
we  had  approached 
the  park,  half  tempted 
to  abandon  Baden,  if 
we  could  not  secure 
some  situation  nearer 
to  this  field  of  mer- 
riment. At  length  we 
saw  an  attractive 
building,  just  across 
the  street  from  it, 

Which     did    not     SOme-  THE  RESTAURANT. 


THE    RHINE 


how  have  the  air  of  a  hotel,  although  two  gentlemen  were  taking 
breakfast  in  the  garden,  and  a  sleek  waiter  (the  inevitable  nap- 
kin on  his  arm)  was  standing  on  the  steps.  Upon  the  wall, 
however,  was  the  inscription,  "  Maison  Messmer."  "  Could  we 
but  find  rooms  here,"  whispered  a  member  of  the  party,  "we 
would  remain  two  months,  at  least."  Approaching  the  waiter, 

therefore,    he    inquired,    "  Par- 
don me,  is  this  a  hotel  ?  "    "Ja 
wo  hi,     mcin     Herr"       He 
glanced  at  us  triumphantly, 
but  we  discreetly  turned 
away  our  heads.     "Are 
there  any  rooms  to 
let    at    present  ? " 
he  continued  in  a 
voice  which  trem- 
bled from  excite- 
ment. "Dasglanbe 
icJi      ganz     wohl. 
Kommen    Sie   her- 
ein,    meine     Herr- 
schaften.        I     will 

speak  to  Herr  Messmer."  A  moment  more  and  the  pro- 
prietor appeared.  Best  and  kindest  of  all  landlords,  we 
little  thought  that  morning,  now  so  long  ago,  of  the  warm 
friendship  which  would  soon  arise  between  us,  strengthened 
by  every  annual  visit,  and  undiminished  by  the  lapse  of  years. 
Too  modest  to  proclaim  the  fact  himself,  we  subsequently 
learned  that  he  was  highly  esteemed  by  old  Kaiser  William 
and  the  Empress,  had  been  the  recipient  of  several  presents 
from  them,  and  was  among  the  guests  invited  to  their  golden 
wedding  in  Berlin.  In  fact,  it  was  in  this  very  hotel  that 
both  the  Kaiser  and  his  wife  invariably  passed  a  few  weeks 
every  year.  Informed  of  this  by  the  waiter,  while  Herr  Mess- 


THE   HOTEL   MESSMER. 


THE    RHINE 


mer  himself  had 
for  a  moment  dis- 
appeared, we  held 
a  hurried  consul- 
tation. Could  we, 
by  any  possibility, 
remain  in  this  oc- 
casional at  ode  of 
royalty  ?  Would 
not  the  prices 
also  be  "royal  "  ? 
They  did  not 
prove  to  be  so. 
Indeed,  we  soon 
discovered  that, 
when  not  occupied  by  the  imperial  family,  the  Maison 
Messmer  was  no  more  expensive  than  any  other  hostelry. 
Accordingly,  we  hired  rooms  at  once,  and  stepping  out 
upon  our  balconies  surveyed  the  scene  before  us.  It  was 
enchanting.  On  all  sides  were  graceful  hills,  dark  with  the 
splendid  foliage  of  the  Black  Forest,  from  which,  at  frequent 


IN   THE   ALLEE   AT   BADEN. 


THE    PARK,   "  CONVERSATION    HOUSE,"   AND 
HOTEL   MESSMER. 


26 


THE    RHINE 


THE   MUSIC-STAND. 


intervals,  in  strik- 
ing contrast  to  their 
sombre  background, 
emerged,  to  glitter 
in  the  sun,  the  white 
walls  of  some  pretty 
villa.  One  was  the 
residence  of  a  Rus- 
sian prince,  who,  long 
before  the  frozen 
arms  of  the  river 
Neva  release  St.  Pe- 
tersburg from  their 
prolonged  embrace, 
forgets  here,  amid 

opening  flowers  and  the  songs  of  birds,  the  chill  and  gloom  of 

Russia's  capital. 

In  the  foreground,  so  near,  in  fact,  that  I  could  toss  a  coin 

into  it  from  my  balcony,  was  the  Casino  Park,  lined  on  one  side 

with  an   enticing 

restaurant       and 

the      "  Conversa- 
tion House,"  and 

on  the  other  with 

a  row   of  tempt- 
ing    shops.        In 

front     of     these 

stood   the    pretty 

music  -  stand, 

where,     three 

times   a    day,    at 

early       morning, 

afternoon,       and 

evening,    a    well- 

IN  THE  "CONVERSATION  HOUSE." 


THE    RHINE 


27 


trained  orchestra  affords  enjoyment  to  attentive  listeners. 
An  Oriental  sovereign,  well  versed  in  pleasures,  once  decreed 
that-  he  should  always  be  awakened  by  music.  How  often 
had  I  thought  of  that  as  one  of  the  most  exquisite  of  luxuries, 
which  I  should  never  know!  But  here,  in  Baden-Baden,  we 
experienced  it.  It  is  a  special  feature  of  the  Hotel  Messmer, 
which  stamps  itself  in- 
delibly upon  the  mem-* 
ory.  Each  morn- 
ing, about  seven 
o'clock,  we  would 
be  gradually 
roused  to  con- 
sciousness by 
the  inspiring 
harmonies  of  a 
German  choral ; 
and  then,  for  a 
full  hour,  half  sleep- 
ing, half  awake,  we 
would  enjoy  a  concert, 
just  far  enough  removed  to 
make  its  strains  seem  echoes  from  the  realm  of  dreamland, 
just  near  enough  to  let  us  lose  no  portion  of  its  melodies. 
"  But,  if  the  weather  be  rainy,"  it  may  be  asked,  "  are  you  de- 
prived of  music  ?  "  By  no  means.  The  visitor,  in  such  a  case, 
may  leave  his  hotel  balcony  and  enter  the  "  Conversation 
House,"  to  find  himself  in  a  superbly  decorated  hall,  where 
dazzling  chandeliers  rival  sunlight,  and  waxed  floors  tempt 
visitors  to  dance  in  rhythm  to  the  music  of  the  orchestra, 
which  has  come  in  from  the  pavilion.  Very  different,  how- 
ever, was  the  scene  displayed  here  thirty  years  ago.  The 
"  Conversation  House  "  was  then  the  famous  "  gambling  hell " 
of  Baden,  where  green  baize  tables  and  the  fascinating 


THE   WALDSEE. 


28 


THE   RHINE 


roulette-wheel  lured  thousands  of  the  butterflies  of  wealth  and 
fashion  to  their  ruin,  like  moths  to  a  flame.  But  now,  since 
gambling  is  no  longer  allowed,  Baden-Baden  has  become  vir- 
tuous by  compulsion.  Despite  its  loss,  however,  the  place  is 
still  attractive.  The  beauty  of  its  situation,  the  healing  proper- 
ties of  its  springs,  its  lovely  park,  and  the  adjoining  forest  draw 

admiring  thou- 
sands to  enjoy 
the  scenery,  and 
listen  to  the 
charming  music 
which,  hour  after 
hour,  floats  upon 
the  air.  The  only 
persons  who  told 
me  they  regretted 
the  prohibition 
of  gaming  were 
the  shop-keepers, 
who,  naturally 
enough,  desire 
the  good  old 

times  when  fortunes,  made  or  lost  in  a  night,  were  spent  with 
fabulous  rapidity. 

One  can  hardly  imagine  how  gay  and  animated  is 
the  scene  on  which  the  tourist  gazes  from  the  windows 
of  the  Hotel  Messmer,  especially  at  night.  The  long, 
brilliant  avenue  is  then  filled  with  promenaders,  the  chairs 
on  either  side  are  occupied,  waiters  flit  about,  dispensing 
light  refreshments,  and  during  the  pauses  in  the  music 
the  air  is  filled  with  the  hum  of  conversation.  Seated  at 
such  a  time  upon  the  private  balcony  of  your  room,  you 
look  down  on  that  scene,  as  on  the  stage  from  a  pro- 
scenium box,  able  to  view  and  listen  to  it  all  with  perfect 


THE   OLD  GAMING-HALL. 


THE    RHINE 


ease,    and,  literally,    if   you    choose,    attired   in    dressing-gown 
and  slippers. 

It  must  be  acknowledged,  however,  that,  since  the  Franco- 
Prussian  War,  the  gay  and  fashionable  life  of  Baden  has  largely 
disappeared.  The  place  still  remains  delightful,  but  it  no 
longer  effervesces  like  champagne.  Parisians  do  not  visit  it 
as  formerly,  and  write  sarcastically  of  the  change  from  French 
to  German  cus- 
toms. One  witty 
writer,  for  exam- 
ple, says  that 
now,  instead  of 
snowy  shoulders, 
sparkling  eyes, 
and  charming  cos- 
tumes, one  sees 
here  gouty  Ger- 
mans limping 
along  the  prom- 
enade, supported 
by  their  patient 
f rans,  or  gathered 
in  the  "  Conversa- 
tion House,"  like  cabbages  raised  under  glass ;  and  that,  in- 
stead of  the  gay  rivalry  of  spendthrifts,  who  bought  all  kinds 
of  trinkets  at  the  shops,  the  wretched  salesmen  are  once  or 
twice  a  day  aroused  from  sleep,  by  some  huge-waisted  Hol- 
lander, who  bargains  with  them  half  an  hour  for  a  pair  of  stock- 
ings !  All  this,  of  course,  is  caricature,  yet  Baden  must  have 
had  in  former  times  a  charm  of  which  we  see  few  traces  now. 
The  loveliest  summer  toilettes  were  then  inaugurated  here. 
It  was  the  accepted  ball-room  of  all  Europe,  —  the  garden  of 
Paris,  —  the  promenade  of  England.  Then,  in  the  balmy 
summer  evenings,  these  music-haunted  paths  became  the  ren- 


THE    RIVER    DOS. 


THE   RHINE 


dezvous  of  friends 
who  had  last  met 
at  Nice  or  on  the 
Paris  boulevards, 
and  in  these  wind- 
ing avenues  Love 
reigned  supreme 
and  held  his  court 
unchallenged, 
and  here,  if  any- 
where, "  at  lovers' 
vows  of  constancy 
Jove  laughed." 

Not  far  from 
the      "  Conversa- 
tion   House"    is    the    Drinking    Hall,   a    handsome    structure, 
nearly   three   hundred   feet   in   length,    whose    noble    portico, 


THE   PROMENADE   OF   THE    DRINKING   HALL. 


THE   DRINKING    HALL. 


THE    RHINE 


33 


adorned  with  frescos  representing  the  legends  of  the  Black 
Forest,  make  it  a  most  agreeable  promenade  for  those  who 
come  here  for  the  cure.  In  the  rotunda  of  the  edifice  rises 
the  celebrated  spring  of  Baden-Baden,  the  virtues  of  which 
have  been  sung  for  centuries.  As  its  waters  have  a  tem- 
perature of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  degrees  Fahrenheit, 


it  is  not  surprising  that  such  a  covered  gallery  has 
been  provided,  where  invalids  can  walk,  and  wait  with 
patience  till  the  liquid  cools.  It  may  perhaps  console  them  to 
remember  that,  nearly  two  thousand  years  ago,  people  were 
doing  here  precisely  the  same  thing.  For  when  the  building 
was  in  process  of  construction,  extensive  relics  of  Roman  baths 
were  discovered,  proving  that  those  old  conquerors  of  the  world 
had  learned  the  efficacy  of  this  spring,  and  had  erected  their 
votive  tablets  to  the  gods. 

Whenever  I  was  seated  at  my  window  in  the  Hotel  Messmer, 
if  I  looked  off  beyond  the  town,  I  saw,  three  miles  away,  a  ruin 
of  enormous  size,  crowning  the  summit  of  a  wooded  mountain. 


34 


THE   RHINE 


.   - 


I 


It  is  known  as  Das  alte  Schloss,  or  the  Old  Castle,  and  was  the 
residence  of  the  lords  of  Baden,  who  in  the  Middle  Ages  ruled 
this  region  with  a  rod  of  iron.  Two  hundred  years  ago  the 
French  dismantled  it,  and  then,  for  half  a  century  at  least,  it 
lay  neglected  in  the  forest  solitude.  But  now  a  visit  to  the  Old 
Castle  is  the  favorite  excursion  to  be  made  from  Baden,  and 
every  pleasant  afternoon,  a  score  of  tourists,  who  have  ap- 
proached it  by 
long  walks  or 
drives  completely 
shaded  by  gigan- 

tic  trees»  may  be 
seen  standing  on 
its  ruined  walls, 
gazing  with  de- 
light upon  the 
scene  below.  The 
entrance  to  this 
castle  is  a  narrow 
portal  beyond 
which  one  can 
see  a  winding 
passage,  resem- 
bling a  street  in  an  old  Oriental  town.  The  outer  gate  was 
only  the  first  of  many  similar  portals  which  followed  one 
another,  like  successive  doors  in  a  safe-deposit  vault.  A  hand- 
ful of  determined  men  could  easily,  therefore,  have  resisted 
here  an  army  of  invaders ;  for,  in  addition  to  the  ponderous 
gates,  the  wails  were  pierced  with  narrow  loop-holes,  through 
which  the  garrison  could  with  safety  fire  upon  the  enemy.  To- 
day, how  great  the  transformation !  The  massive  walls  are 
roofless  now,  and  visitors  may  enter  fearlessly  a  corridor,  which, 
no  doubt,  in  the  period  of  the  castle's  glory,  frequently  echoed 
to  the  clang  of  arms  and  tramp  of  horses'  feet.  Where  mailed 


THE  GATEWAY. 


THE    RHINE 


35 


THE    ENTRANCE. 


watchmen  stood 
guard,  a  peasant 
woman  keeps  a 
booth  of  trinkets ; 
and,  on  an  ancient 
tower,  the  trav- 
eler, wearied  by 
his  mountain 
climb,  beholds 
the  touching 
legend,  "Res- 
taurant." It  is  ap- 
propriate that  be- 
neath this  word 
there  should,  also, 

be  inscribed  an  arrow  ;  for  swiftly  as  a  feathered  barb  does  every 
German,  at  least,  glide  through  the  adjoining  doorway  to  order 
beer,  coffee,  butter-brod,  and  sausage,  without  which  no  excursion 
seems  to  him 
complete^ — -nor 
even  an  after- 
noon endurable. 
Many  war- 
like deeds  are 
said  to  have 
been  performed 
in  ancient  times 
in  and  about 
the  Old  Castle, 
but  it  is  not 
necessary  to  go 
into  antiquity 
for  thrilling 


scenes    con- 


THE   BANQUET  HALL   IN   THE   OLD  CASTLE. 


36  THE   RHINE 

nected  with  its  history.  One  day,  as  we  were  climbing  to  the 
highest  portion  of  the  building  by  some  rock-hewn  steps,  Herr 
Messmer  told  us  of  a  tragic  incident  of  which  he  had  been 
personally  cognizant.  When  gambling  prevailed  at  Baden, 
almost  as  many  suicides  took  place  in  the  Black  Forest  as 
now  occur  at  Monaco.  Among  the  visitors  here,  in  1863, 

were  a  young 
Russian  officer 
and  the  lady  of 
his  love.  They 
had  eloped  from 
Moscow.  Their 
funds  had  become 
exhausted.  The 
money  on  which 
the  young  man 
counted  was  re- 
fused him,  save 
on  condition  that 
he  left  his  friend 
and  came  back 
to  his  family 
alone.  Unwilling 
to  do  this,  in  his  despair  the  officer  tempted  fortune  at  the 
gaming-table.  In  vain  !  In  one  brief  hour  he  had  lost  the  little 
money  that  remained  to  him.  Leaving  the  brilliant  hall,  he 
plunged  directly  into  the  Black  Forest,  and  made  his  way  to 
this  castle.  It  was  a  glorious  night,  and  moonlight  lent  enchant- 
ment to  the  place ;  but  its  beauty  offered  him  no  consolation. 
Meanwhile,  alarmed  at  his  delay,  suspecting  his  design,  and 
acting  upon  the  information  given  her  by  a  servant,  the  lady 
followed  breathless  in  his  footsteps.  Again  and  again,  in  the 
darkness  of  the  wood,  she  called  his  name,  but  met  with  no 
response.  At  last,  when  she  had  dragged  her  trembling 


RUINED   WALLS. 


THE    RHINE 


37 


limbs  almost  to 
the  entrance  of 
the  castle,  a  pis- 
tol-shot rang  out 
upon  the  air. 
Half-frenzied, 
with  recovered 
strength,  she 
bounded  up  the 
ruined  battle- 
ments, to  find  her 
lover  dead  beside 
the  wall.  She 
did  not  hesitate 
a  moment.  Press- 
ing a  farewell  kiss  upon  his  lips,  still  moist  and  warm,  she 
took  the  pistol  from  his  hand  and  in  an  instant  more  fell 
lifeless  by  his  side. 

It  is,  of  course,  for  the  interest  of  the  people  of  Baden 
to  make  the  place  as  beautiful  and  inviting  as  possible. 
Accordingly,  the  authorities  leave  nothing  undone  to  render 
it  attractive.  In  addition  to  its  magnificent  bathing  establish- 


THE   BATHING    ESTABLISHMENT. 


3g  THE   RHINE 

ment,  and  the  Casino  Park  with  its  frequent  concerts,  illu- 
minations, and  select  entertainments,  the  town  itself  resembles 
a  lovely  garden,  in  which  a  long  avenue  called  the  Lichten- 
thal  Altee  forms  a  delightful  promenade,  adorned  with  foun- 
tains, flowers,  and  shade  trees, 
among  which  flows  the  little 
river  Oos,  spanned  by  a  mul- 
titude of  pretty  bridges,  and 
bordered  by  superb  hotels  and 


charming  villas.  An 
attempt  was  once  made 
on  this  promenade  to  assassinate  old  Emperor  William.  One 
day,  when  he  was  walking  here,  a  miserable  wretch  sprang 
from  behind  a  tree,  aimed  a  pistol  at  him  and  fired.  In- 
stead of  hitting  him,  however,  the  bullet  entered  one  of 
the  adjoining  elms.  The  tree,  in  consequence,  came  very 
near  suffering  the  fate  of  the  famous  willow  which  over- 
hung Napoleon's  grave  at  St.  Helena,  —  that  of  being 
carried  away  piecemeal  by  relic  hunters.  Accordingly,  the 
town  authorities  encased  its  trunk  in  a  stout  coat  of  canvas, 
painted  black.  But  even  this  did  not  suffice.  The  tourists' 
knives  cut  through  the  canvas  and  attacked  the  tree.  Herr 


THE    RHINE 


39 


Messmer  then  suggested  the  idea  of  covering  the  two  adjoin- 
ing trees  also  with  canvas.  This  plan  proved  perfectly  suc- 
cessful, for  strangers,  being  at  a  loss  to  know  which  tree  was 
the  historic  elm,  gave  up  all  hope  of  relics,  and  retired  in 
confusion. 

One  of  the  charms  of  Baden-Baden,  which  has  drawn  me 
thither  sum- 
mer after 
summer,  has 
been  the 
great  variety 
of  forest 
drives  and 
walks  in  its  vi- 
cinity. Thus, 
within  a  few 
hundred  feet 
of  the  Casino 
Park,  you  can 
enter  the 
Black  Forest 
and  stroll 
for  miles  be- 
neath impos- 
ing trees  on 
paths  which, 
for  a  con- 
siderable dis- 
tance from 
the  town,  are 
carefully 
swept  every 
day  by  old 
women. 


WATERFALL  IN   THE   BLACK   FOKEST. 


4o 


THE   RHINE 


It  is  necessary  to  see  a  German  forest  to  comprehend  its 
beauty.  Before  I  went  to  Germany  I  had  little  idea  of  what 
a  well-kept  forest  was;  but  after  spending  a  few  delightful 
days  in  the  Thuringian  and  Black  Forests,  the  many  German 
songs  and  poems  which  describe  them  were  readily  understood 

and  heartily  appreciated. 

The  Black  Forest,  for  exam- 
ple, on  the  edge  of  which 
Baden-Baden  is  situated, 
is  ninety  miles  in  length 
and  twenty-five  in 
breadth,  and  tourists 
can  drive  through  it  on 
finely  graded,  macad- 
amized roads,  amid 
thousands  of  majestic 
trees,  which  foresters 
keep  free  from  under- 
brush and  useless  limbs ; 
while,  here  and  there, 
a  ruined  monastery  or 
romantic  castle  cuts  its 
profile  sharply  on  the  sombre  background.  Moreover,  trail- 
ing in  and  out,  like  silver  threads  among  the  stately  pines, 
are  little  streams  which  fill  the  air  with  freshness  and 
the  cadence  of  a  song.  What  wonder,  then,  that  no  part  of 
Europe  is  richer  in  poetic  legends  than  the  Schwarzwald  ? 
Books  have  been  written  merely  to  describe  them ;  a  hundred 
castle  walls  preserve  them  still  in  fresco,  or  in  tapestry ;  and 
the  quaint  dwarfs  and  giants,  princesses  and  fairies,  of  whom 
we  read  with  bated  breath  in  childhood,  were  all  of  German 
origin,  and  usually  played  their  parts  for  good  or  ill  within 
the  limits  of  this  forest. 

It  is  not   long   ago   that   the   good,    simple-minded   people 


IN   THE   BLACK    FOREST. 


THE    RHINE 


of  this  region  firmly  believed  that  these  dark-hued  pines  were 
once  inhabited  by  golden-haired  sirens,  so  fair  and  white  that 
they  seemed  born  of  the  water-lilies,  and  that,  when  the  moon- 
beams turned  by  their 
caress  the  surface  of 
the  rivers  to  a  silver 
pavement,  those  fair 
nymphs  danced  there- 
on the  whole  night 
long,  until  the  first 


came  glimmering 
in  the  east,  when 
they  would  van- 
ish like  a  dream. 
Absurd,  of  course, 
these  legends 
seem  to-day  ;  yet 
who  will  deny 
that,  in  a  poetic 
sense  at  least,  the 
world  is  poorer 
by  their  loss  ? 

Hidden  away  from  the  world,  in  the  cool  depths  of  the 
Black  Forest,  within  the  shade  of  stately  trees  and  within 
easy  distance  of  some  beautiful  cascades,  is  the  once  famous 
monastery  of  All  Saints.  That  all  who  lived  within  its  walls 
were  saints,  I  would  not  venture  to  affirm ;  but  it  was  certainly 
a  noble  building  in  its  prime,  five  hundred  years  ago,  and  held 


THE    RUINS   OF    ALL   SAINTS. 


THE    RHINE 


HEIDELUERi 


its  place  as  one 
of  the  richest  in- 
stitutions of  the 
kind  in  Germany. 
At  the  very  be- 
ginning of  this 
century,  however, 
its  property  was 
confiscated  and 
the  site  aban- 
doned. A  miser- 
able fortune  then 
awaited  the  mon- 
astery, since  it 
was  purchased 

for  a  cotton-mill.     Apparently  the  gods  protected  it  from  sac- 
rilege ;   for,  on  the  very  day  when    its   new  owners  were    to 
take  possession,  the  lightning's  bolt  set  fire  to  the  massive  edi- 
fice and  made  of  it  the  ruin  which  we  see.     No  lover  of  the 
beautiful,       how- 
ever,   can    regret 
it ;    for   now,    in- 
stead of  a  prosaic 
factory,  the  tour- 
ist  finds   in    this 
delightful       spot 
one  of  the  finest 
ruins     to     which 
luxuriant  ivy  and 
romantic  legends 
ever     lent     their 
charm. 

Soon    after 
leaving       Baden-' 

THE   CASTLE   FROM   THE   RHINE. 


THE    RHINE 


45 


Baden,    another   charming    feature    of    the    Rhineland    greets 

the   traveler    in    Heidelberg,    partially    mirrored    in    the    river 

Neckar,    which    here   rolls   downward   like    a    flood    of    silver 

to    the    Rhine    some    miles    away.      The    great    attraction    of 

the  place  is,  of   course,  its  famous  castle,    which  is   certainly 

one    of    the    grandest    strongholds    ever    designed    by    medi- 

seval    architects,    and    has    been    enthusiastically    called    the 

"  Alhambra        of 

Germany."       All 

German      castles 

are  picturesquely 

located,    but    few 

can     equal    this ; 

for      the       steep 

mountain  side  of 

Heidelberg   is 

covered     with     a 

dense  forest,  from 

which,  more  than 

three        hundred 

feet     above      the 

river,    the    lovely 

ruin  emerges,  like 

a    solitary    flower 

out  of  a  mass  of  dark  green  leaves.     It  is  only  a  short  walk 

from    the    Castle    Hotel    to    this    historic    edifice,    but   it   will 

not   be   easily    forgotten  ;    for   the   dark    woods   are   threaded 

with    a    multitude    of    winding    paths,     completely    sheltered 

from     the     sun,     and     in     the     early     spring    bordered    with 

violets.       Sometimes    these    walks   are   spanned   with    ruined 

arches,    adorned    with    wild    flowers,    and    caressed    by    the 

clinging   fingers  of   innumerable   vines.       Moreover,    in   these 

sylvan    shades,    on    every    pleasant    summer    afternoon,    the 

visitor  can  seat  himself   in    a    rustic   cafe  (the  roof  of   which 


HEIDELBERG    PARK. 


46 


THE    RHINE 


is  the  green  canopy  of  the  trees),  and  listen  to  orchestral 
music,  that  invariable  feature  of  German  out-door  life,  cheer- 
ing the  pilgrimage  of  the  summer  tourist  in  Rhineland  with 
continuous  strains  of  melody. 

On  entering   the    courtyard  of   the    castle,  we  see  a  great 
variety    of    architecture    in    the    buildings     that    enclose    it. 

Each  differs  from  its 
neighbor,  both  in  gen- 
eral design  and  orna- 
mentation, for  Hei- 
delberg Castle  was 
not  the  work  of  a 
single  architect,  or 
even  of  one  age,  but 
is,  rather,  a  series  of 
palaces  built  by  suc- 
cessive princes  during 


a  period  of  three  hun- 
dred years.  A  won- 
derfully fascinating 
place  is  this  old 
courtyard,  either  at 

sunset,  when  its  ruined  walls,  with  their  elaborate  statues 
and  stone-carving,  stand  out  like  finely  decorated  screens 
against  the  sky,  or,  when  the  moon  pours  a  flood  of  silver 
through  their  ruined  arches,  giving  a  glory  to  their  rem- 
nants of  departed  splendor,  and  softening  all  traces  of  the 
conflict  which  they  still  survive.  In  that  mysterious  light 
their  sculptured  kings  and  warriors  seem  like  living  beings, 
who  have  assembled  to  converse  of  the  old  times  when  the 
grand  halls  were  filled  with  valiant  knights,  fair  ladies,  and 
sweet-voiced  minstrels. 

No    one    can     fail     to     be     impressed    with     the    former 
strength   of   the   castle's   walls,   if   he   observes   an    enormous 


A   CORNER    IN  THE   COURTYARD. 


THE    RHINE 


49 


STATUE-COVERED   WALLS. 


mass  of  masonry 
called  the  "  over- 
thrown tower."  Two 
hundred  years  ago, 
the  army  of  Louis 
XIV.  left  the  town 
of  Heidelberg  a 
smoldering  heap  of 
ruins,  and  the  castle 
itself  so  far  dis- 
mantled, that  the 
French  king  ordered 
a  medal  to  be  struck, 
bearing  the  inscrip- 
tion, "  Heidelberg  is 
destroyed."  But, 

happily,  it  was  impossible  to  destroy  such  a  massive  struc- 
ture, and  some  of  its  old  battlements  remain  almost  as  strong 
as  formerly  in  their  enormous  thickness  of  twenty  feet. 

The  presence  of 
ivy,  in  connection 
with  the  ruins  of  the 
past,  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and 
suggestive  sights  in 
nature.  It  is  also  a 
peculiarity  of  the 
North.  Egyptian 
ruins  stand  in  the 
burning  sunlight, 
desolate  and  naked, 
with  all  the  blows 
they  have  received 
A  HISTORIC  FACADE.  from  time  and  their 


THE   RHINE 


SCULPTURED    KINGS   AND  WARRIORS. 


despoilers  plainly 
visible  ;  but  in  the 
lands  of  mist  and 
snow,  ruins  are 
quickly  covered 
with  a  lovely 
mantle  of  protec- 
tion. How  tender- 
ly the  ivy  touches 
the  broken  out- 
lines of  their  stony 
features,  putting 
its  tiny  tendrils 
forth,  like  an  in- 
fant's  fingers 
creeping  over  a 

mother's  face  !     And  when  the  union  of  the  vine  and  ruin  is 

completed,   how   sturdily  those   rootlets   cling   to   every  coign 

of  vantage,  and   enter   every  nook   and   cranny,  until   by  the 

sheer     force     of 

numbers        their 

lilliputian    hands 

screen  and  ap- 
parently support 

the  massive  walls! 

Is   it    not    owing 

to  its  ivied  cloak 

that      many      an 

ancient   structure 

is  more  beautiful 

in  ruin  than  when 

perfect?     And 

who     can     stand 

by   such   an   edi- 


THE    RHINE 


fice,  made  lovelier  by  vines  which  never  would  have  come 
to  it  but  for  misfortune,  and  not  reflect  how  character  is 
often  beautified  by  adversity,  developing  in  trial  a  multitude 
of  noble  traits  which  in  prosperity  would  never  have  been 
seen  ?  Something 
is  wanting  in  a 
man  who  has  not 
known  misfor- 
tune. To  have 
really  lived  one 
must  have  suf- 
fered. 

In  the  cellar 
of  the  castle  is 
the  largest  wine- 
cask  in  the  world, 
which  is  no  less 
than  twenty-four 
feet  high,  and 
has  a  capacity  of 
more  than  a  quar- 
ter of  a  million  bottles  of  wine.  In  olden  times,  when 
this  huge  tun  had  been  filled  with  the  produce  of  the 
vintage,  a  dance  took  place  upon  the  platform  that  sur- 
mounts it,  and  the  old  castle  walls  resounded  to  gay  music, 
songs,  and  laughter;  but  ever  since  1769  the  cask  has  held 
no  wine,  and  the  days  of  Heidelberg's  festivities  are  gone 
forever. 

There  are  three  modes  of  traveling  on  the  Rhine.  The  first 
and  fastest  is,  of  course,  the  railway ;  but  this,  while  good  for 
business  purposes,  is  rarely  taken  by  the  tourist.  The  second 
is  the  steamboat,  which  is  both  rapid  and  agreeable.  The  third 
and  last  is  the  long  line  of  splendid  carriage-roads  which  wind 
around  the  bases  of  the  mountains  and  skirt  the  borders  of  the 


THE   GREAT   WINE-CASK. 


THE    RHINE 


A  CHOICE   OF    ROUTES. 


no  time  on  such  a  trip  really  to 

delightful  way  to  travel  through 

on  foot.     Of  this 

I  was  convinced, 

some   years   ago, 

in  talking  with  a 

gentleman      who 

had    made    such 

a    tour.       I    had 

myself  sailed   up 

and     down      the 

Rhine  a  number 

of      times,      and 

thought   I    knew 

it  tolerably  well ; 

but      when      we 

came     to     speak 

of    some    details, 

I  found  that,  corn- 


stream.  Ninety- 
nine  out  of  every 
hundred  travel- 
ers, probably, 
take  the  steam- 
boat journey,  and 
thus  glide  rapidly 
in  one  day  past 
the  famous  Rhen- 
ish villages  and 
castles;  but  this 
is  like  going 
through  a  picture- 
gallery  on  roller- 
skates.  There  is 
observe  anything.  The  most 
Rhineland  is  in  a  carriage,  or 


ALONG   THE    RHINE. 


THE    RHINE  53 

pared  with  my  companion,  I  knew  very  little.  "  How  is  this  ?  " 
I  inquired,  in  some  chagrin,  when  he  had  asked  my  impres- 
sions of  a  place  I  had  not  seen,  "  how  is  it  possible  that  you 
know  the  entire  route  so  perfectly  ?  "  "  It  is  easily  explained," 
was  the  reply.  "I  recently  hired  a  carriage  and  a  pair  of 
horses,  and,  with  my  son,  drove  leisurely  along  the  Rhine 
for  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  having  no  end  of  good  hotels 
in  which  to  eat  when  we  were  hungry,  and  sleep  when  we 
were  weary.  Journeying  thus,  we  halted  when  and  where 
we  liked,  observed  the  village  life,  and  visited  leisurely  the 
ruins,  which,  looked  on  from  the  steamer  at  a  distance,  merely 
produce  a  vague  impression  soon  to  be  forgotten."  I  contem- 
plated him  with  admiration,  not  unmixed  with  envy.  No  one 
could  have  called  him  an  extensive  traveler.  He  had  not  been 
in  Egypt,  Spain,  or  even  Italy,  but  he  had  done  at  least 
one  thing  in  Europe  thoroughly, —  he  had  seen  the  Rhine. 
The  usual  starting-point  for  a  sail  down  the  Rhine  is  Mainz, 
or,  as  the  French  prefer  to  say,  Mayence.  This,  if  not  beauti- 
ful, is  nevertheless  a  town  of  great  historical  celebrity.  It  was 
one  of  the  old  Roman  strongholds  built  along  the  Rhine ;  and, 


A    RHENISH   CASTLE. 


54 


THE   RHINE 


shortly  before  the  birth  of  Christ,  the  Roman  general,  Drusus, 
built  across  the  river  at  this  point  a  bridge  of  stone.  Since 
then  poor  Mainz  has  been  repeatedly  the  spoil  of  conquerors, 
from  Attila  to  Bonaparte.  Yet,  though  its  annals  have  been 
often  stained  with  blood,  its  greatest  fame  comes  from  a  very 
different  source.  In  its  chief  public  square  stands  a  monument 
made  from  the  designs  of  the  Danish  sculptor,  Thorwaldsen, 

and  erected  by 
subscriptions 
from  all  parts  of 
Europe.  It  is  the 
statue  of  the  most 
illustrious  citizen 
of  Mainz,  John 
Gutenberg,  who 
here  invented 
movable  types, 
and  whose  first 
printing-office,  oc- 
cupied by  him  in 
1443,  is  still  pre- 
served. Unfortu- 
nately, like  many 
of  the  benefactors 
of  his  race,  Guten- 
berg died  friendless  and  in  want.  Nevertheless,  among  the 
heroes  of  the  Rhineland,  his  name  stands  out  in  characters 
that  will  forevermore  command  the  admiration  of  posterity;  and 
although  Caesar,  Charlemagne,  Napoleon,  and  many  lesser  war- 
riors have  played  their  roles  in  the  historic  drama  of  this  river, 
—leaving  behind  them  memories  which  are  now  inseparable  from 
the  stream  itself,  —  the  man,  whose  life-work  revolutionized  the 
world  and  helped  mankind  immeasurably  onward  in  its  upward 
path,  was  one  who  neither  held  a  sword  nor  wore  a  crown. 


STATUE  OF  GUTENBERG  AT  MAINZ. 


THE    RHINE 


57 


As  the  swift  steamer  bears  the  tourist  down  the  Rhine  from 
Mainz,  a  charming  feature  soon  reveals  itself  in  the  extensive 
vineyards  glistening  in  the  sun.  Sometimes  the  shores  are 
lined  with  them  for  miles.  The  most  renowned  and  valuable 
lie  upon  the  slopes  of  the  Johannisberg.  This  mountain  was 
formerly  the  property  of  an  Austrian  statesman,  Metternich. 
It  is  well  known 
that,  in  addition 
to  his  love  for 
vineyards  -and 
diplomacy,  Met- 
ternich had  a 
mania  for  collect- 
ing autographs, 
and  his  relations 
during  thirty 
years  with  the 
sovereigns  of  Eu- 
rope (some  of 
whom  owed  to 
him  their  crowns) 
had  naturally 
given  him  a  fine 
array  of  royal 

signatures.  Not  content  with  these,  however,  he  solicited 
those  of  persons  distinguished  in  any  walk  of  life.  Among 
others,  therefore,  he  requested  the  autograph  of  Jules  Janin, 
a  famous  wit  and  journalist  of  Paris.  On  receiving  the  request, 
Janin  immediately  seized  a  pen  and  wrote  : 

"Paris,  1 5th  May,  1838.  —  Received  from  Prince  Metternich,  twenty-four 
bottles  of  his  best  Johannisberg  wine.  (Signed)  JULES  JANIN." 

The  wit  was  well  appreciated  and  rewarded,  for  in  a  month 
the  journalist  received  from  Metternich  the  two  dozen  bottles  of 


58  THE   RHINE 

Johannisberg.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  Metternich  kept 
the  signature  of  the  witty  Frenchman  longer  than  Janin  kept 
the  sparkling  wine  of  Metternich. 

Oh,  the  amount  of  labor  that  has  been  expended  on  the 
Rhenish  hillsides!  Without  man's  ingenuity,  no  cultivation 
of  the  grape  on  their  steep  sides  would  have  been  possible. 
But  human  skill  has  changed  them  into  hanging  gardens, 
by  means  of  countless  terraces  which  hold  the  soil  that  other- 
wise would  be  washed  down  to  the  river  in  a  dozen  rainstorms. 
We  sometimes  think  the  building  of  stone  walls  on  old  New 
England  farms  remarkable,  but  that  is  nothing  to  what  has 
been  accomplished  on  the  Rhine.  Literally,  thousands  of  miles 
of  carefully  constructed  and  cemented  walls,  from  eight  to 
twenty  feet  in  height,  have  been  built  along  these  hillsides, 
dividing  the  whole  area  into  little  vineyards  (perhaps  no  more 
than  twenty-five  feet  wide),  which  in  places  rise  in  thirty  or 
forty  terraces  to  the  very  summit  of  the  mountains.  Sometimes 


THE    RHINE 


59 


the  slope  is  so  precipitous  that  the  soil  in  which  the  vines  are 
planted  has  to  be  kept  in  baskets  to  retain  it,  and  much  of  the 
soil,  and  all  the  dressing  it  receives,  must  be  carried  up  the  hills 
upon  the  shoulders  of  the  laborers. 

Soon  after  leaving  Mainz,  we  find  ourselves  within  the 
region  of  ruined  castles,  tenanted  only  by  the  genii  of  the  past. 
From  time  to  time  old 
crumbling  walls,  or 
solitary  towers,  cast 
their  dark  silhouettes 
upon  the  sky,  —  some 
bleak  and  bare,  others 
concealing  their  de- 
fects with  vines  and 
leaves,  like  Spanish 
beggars  in  their  tat- 
tered mantles. 

Many     of     these 
castles  were  formerly 
the    abodes    of    men 
who  lived  by  levying 
duties    on    the    com- 
merce of   the  river.       Like  vultures,    from    their   eyries,    they 
watched  the  boats  descend  the  stream,  and  if  the  tribute  they 
demanded  was  refused  them,  they  promptly  attacked  the  crew, 
and  secured  the  cargo  for  themselves. 

Among  the  strongest  residences  of  these  robber  barons,  and 
even  now  the  largest  ruin  on  the  river,  is  the  Rheinfels.  Its 
record  is  remarkable,  for  it  was  the  greed  and  cruelty  of  the 
master  of  this  fortress  which  finally  drove  his  victims  to  resist- 
ance. A  league  was  formed  by  several  Rhenish  cities  to  do 
away  with  this  unbearable  oppression  ;  and  under  that  confed- 
eration, the  haughty  castles  one  by  one  went  down.  It  was  a 
bloody  task.  This  stronghold,  in  particular,  withstood  a  siege 


A   BIT   OF    RHINELAND. 


6o 


THE   RHINE 


THE   RHEINFELS. 


of  fifteen  months 
and  drove  back 
from  its  battle- 
ments an  army 
of  twenty-four 
thousand  men ; 
but,  finally,  its 
power  was  de- 
stroyed. Nature 
has  charitably 
thrown  over  these 
blood-stained 
walls  a  robe  of 
verdure  like  a 
mantle  of  obliv- 
ion, and  they  are  now  the  peaceful  home  of  birds  and  flowers, 
which  fill  the  historic  courts  with  song  and  fragrance.  Best 
of  all,  the  commerce  of  the  Rhine,  to-day,  sails  fearlessly 
beneath  the  gloomy  towers  which  threatened  once  its  ruin. 

Conspicuous 
among  the  castles 
whose  towers 
fling  their  shad- 
ows on  the  placid 
bosom  of  this 
river  is  the  Rhein- 
stein.  Its  origin 
is  lost  in  obscur- 
ity, but  there  is 
evidence  that  it 
has  kept  watch 
and  ward  above 
the  Rhine  for  at 
least  six  hundred 


THE    RHINE 


61 


years.  To-day,  it  is  a  summer  residence  of  the  German  Em- 
peror, and,  in  accordance  with  his  wish,  is  kept  as  far  as 
possible  in  the  old  style.  The  walls,  for  example,  are  hung 
with  ancient  armor,  the  windows  are  of  stained  glass,  great 
shaggy  skins  adorn  the  inlaid  floor,  and  even  the  furniture  is 
antique,  collected  from  old  castles  or  mediaeval  convents. 

Another  prominent  ruin  attracting  one's  attention  on  this 
journey  is  the 
castle  of  Ehren- 
fels.  It  is  in 
reality  no  older 
than  the  Rhein- 
stein,  but,  in  its 
mutilated  condi- 
tion, it  seems 
much  more  an- 
cient. On  the 
occasion  of  my 
visit,  I  clambered 
up  a  staircase 
in  the  tower 
and  looked  out 
through  the  case- 
ments near  the  top.  The  guardian  of  the  place  was  a  plump 
German  matron  of  such  ample  girth,  that  she  did  not  venture 
to  follow  me  up  the  stairs  ;  fearing  perhaps  the  fate  of  the 
watchman's  wife,  whose  home  was  in  the  top  of  one  of  these 
narrow  towers,  and  who  there  grew  so  stout  that  she  could 
neither  get  down  the  steps,  nor  out  of  the  window.  When, 
therefore,  her  husband  died  his  successor  was  obliged  to  marry 
the  widow  in  her  prison. 

Not  far  away  one  sees  upon  a  tongue  of  land  a  tall  square 
tower,  which,  although  fully  as  old  as  that  of  Ehrenfels,  was 
handsomely  restored  in  1856.  The  curious  legend  which 


THE   INTERIOR  OF  THE   RHEINSTEIN. 


62 


THE   RHINE 


adheres  to  it  has  stamped  forever  on  its  walls  the  title  of  the 
"Mouse  Tower."  For  who  does  not  remember  the  story  of 
Bishop  Hatto,  who,  in  a  year  of  famine,  locked  a  multitude  of 
women  and  children  in  one  of  his  barns  and  set  it  on  fire? 

"There,"  he  ex- 
claimed, as  he 
saw  the  flames, 
"  I  have  burned 
up  a  lot  of  mis- 
erable rats  that 
were  good  for 
nothing  but  to 
eat  corn."  Hardly 
had'  he  uttered 
the  words,  when 

«YH         &•-    pF          ^M       a    servant 
'Jfli  WBftm  run;ing  to 

and  announced 
that  thousands  of 

EHRENFELS. 

rats  were  coming 

that  way.  In  terror,  the  bishop  hastened  to  this  tower  and, 
barring  every  hole  and  window,  thought  himself  secure ;  but 
in  vain  ! 


"  In  at  the  windows,  and  in  at  the  door, 
And  through  the  walls  by  thousands  they  pour, 
And  down  through  the  ceiling  and  up  through  the  floor, 
From  the  right  and  the  left,  from  behind  and  before, 
From  within  and  without,  from  above  and  below  ; 
And  all  at  once  to  the  bishop  they  go. 


"  They  have  whetted  their  teeth  against  the  stones, 
And  now  they  pick  the  bishop's  bones  ; 
They  gnawed  the  flesh  from  every  limb ; 
For  they  were  sent  to  do  judgment  on  him." 


THE    RHINE 


At  the  union 
of  the  Rhine  and 
one  of  its  smaller 
tributaries,  lies  a 
town  which  the 
lines  of  a  poetess 
have  made  more 
widely  k  n  o  w  n 
than  almost  any 
other  on  the 
river,  —  "  Fair 
Bingen  on  the 
Rhine."  Doubt- 
less the  lady's 
sketch  was  imag- 
inary, and  the 
village  wrhich  she 

thus  immortalized  was  probably  chosen  at  random ;  never- 
theless, it  is  impossible  to  look  upon  it  without  a  pitying 
thought  of  the  "  soldier  of  the  legion,"  who  "  lay  dying  in 
Algiers  "  ;  and  as  the  boat  glides  by  it  in  its  course,  one  finds 
himself  repeating  some  of  the  familiar  lines : 

"  Tell  her,  the  last  night  of  my  life  (for  ere  the  moon  be  risen, 
My  body  will  be  out  of  pain,  my  soul  be  out  of  prison), 
I  dreamed  I  stood  -with  her  and  saw  the  yellow  sunlight  shine 
On  the  vine-clad  hills  of  Bingen  —  fair  Bingen  on  the  Rhine." 


THE        MOUSE  TOWER. 


64 


THE    RHINE 


Just  opposite  Bingen  the  glasses  of  all  tourists  on  the 
steamer  are  eagerly  turned  toward  the  German  National  Monu- 
ment, which  stands  at  a  height  of  seven  hundred  and  forty  feet 
above  the  river,  on  the  brow  of  a  wooded  hill  known  as  the 

Niederwald.     It  is  a   colossal   bronze 
statue  of  Germania,  designed  to  keep 
alive  the  fires  of    patriotism  by  com- 
memorating the  German    victories    in 
the   Franco-Prussian  War,  which  laid 
the  foundation  of  the  present  empire. 
Aside  from    the  impressive  memories 
that  it  awakens,  it  is  an  imposing  work 
of  art,  for  the  entire  monument  is 
more   than    one    hundred   feet  in 
height,  —  the  majestic  figure  of 
Germania,    holding    a    crown 
and  sword  adorned  with  laurel 
wreaths,    being    itself   thirty- 
three  feet  high.     Around  the 
pedestal  are  the  portraits  of 
Emperor    William    and    the 
principal    princes    and    gen- 
erals of  Germany,  as-  well  as 
fine  reliefs  portraying  scenes 
in   the   campaign ;     and    on 
the    side    facing   the    river, 
the  sculptures  represent  the 
"Watch    on     the     Rhine," 

the   words   of  the   noble   song   being   appropriately   inscribed 
beneath. 

The  Rhine,  in  its  capricious  windings,  gives  forth  its  treas- 
ures, one  after  the  other,  each  awakening  new  delight.  Among 
the  pretty  villages  thus  revealed  is  Bacharach,  the  most  con- 
spicuous feature  of  which  is  a  ruin  known  as  St.  Werner's 


THE   NATIONAL  MONUMENT. 


THE    RHINE 


BACHARACH. 


Chapel.  The  ori- 
gin of  this  build- 
ing was  peculiar. 
Saint  Werner,  it 
appears,  was  a 
young  boy,  who, 
four  centuries 
and  a  half  ago, 
was  murdered  by 
the  Jews  at  Ober- 
wesel.  His  body 
was  flung  into  the 
river,  but,  instead 
of  floating  down 
the  stream,  it 

came  miraculously    up    the  current    for  some  miles,   and   was 

finally   washed   ashore    at    Bacharach,    scaring   the   murderers 

into   confession.      After   such   an    aquatic    exploit   the   young 

man    was   declared    a    saint, 

and    the    inhabitants    < 

the  town  could  do  no 

less    than    build    for 

him       the       pretty 

chapel,  the  ruins  of 

which    still    grace 

the  borders  of  the 

Rhine. 

The     town     of 

Bacharach  has,  also, 

an  eventful  history. 

Some    eighteen 

hundred  years  ago 

a     Roman    settle- 
ment    WaS     CStab-  ST.  WERNER'S  CHAPEL. 


66 


THE    RHINE 


lished  here,  and,  very  early  becoming  famous  for  the  wine 
which  it  produced,  it  was  called  Ara  Bacchi,  of  the  Altar  of 
Bacchus.  Even  to-day  an  altar  to  the  god  of  wine  might  well 
be  erected  at  Bacharach;  for,  on  sipping  the  golden  produce 
of  its  vineyards,  we  seem  to  taste  in  every  drop  a  ray  of  im- 
prisoned sunshine,  and  recollect  the  German  proverb  which 
declares : 

"  At  Wiirzburg  on  the  Stein, 
At  Hochheim  on  the  Main, 
And  Bacharach  on  the  Rhine, 
You  find  the  best  of  wine." 

Not  far  from  the  town,  one  sees  before  him,  in  the  middle 
of  the  river,  a  singularly  shaped  structure,  which  certainly  can 
lay  no  claim  to  beauty.  It  has  a  most  inhospitable  air,  since 
its  entrance  is  six  feet  above  the  rock  on  which  the  building 
stands,  and  even  this  is  reached  only  by  a  ladder.  More  than 
six  hundred  years  ago,  this  structure  served  as  a  convenient 
toll-house,  which  no  boats  were  allowed  to  pass  without  paying 


AN   ANCIENT  TOLL  HOUSE. 


THE    RHINE 


CASTLE  OF  SCHONBERG. 


All  the  legends  of  the  Rhine 
Thus,  it  is  claimed  that  in  the 
once  lived  seven 
handsome  daugh- 
ters, who  were 
such  incorrigible 
flirts,  and  persist- 
ently broke  so 
many  hearts,  that 
Providence  finally 
interfered  to 
avenge  the  Ro- 
meos  of  the 
Rhine,  and 
changed  the  sis- 
ters into  seven 
rocks,  which 
stand  here  to 


tribute,  and  that 
it  was  also  used 
as  a  prison  is 
evident  from  the 
fact  that  dun- 
geons still  exist 
beneath  it,  below 
the  level  of  the 
river.  It  was  even 
capable  of  sus- 
taining a  siege,  be- 
ing supplied  with 
water  from  a  well 
dug  deeper  than 
the  bed  of  the  sur- 
rounding stream. 

are   by  no  means  pathetic. 

castle    of    Schonberg   there 


"  SENSELESS   STONE." 


68 


THE    RHINE 


this  day,  a  warning  to  all  pretty  voyagers  of  the  consequences 
of  such  cruel  actions. 

"  Of  love  the}'  ever  made  a  jest, 
For  a  stony  heart  was  in  each  breast ; 
Now,  sunk  in  the  Rhine  for  their  sins  to  atone, 
They  are  changed  into  rock  and  senseless  stone.1' 

The  present  generation,  however,  apparently  cares  very 
little  for  this  warning.  Providence  seems  to  have  changed  its 
method  of  protecting  jilted  lovers;  else  would  the  shores  of 
Mount  Desert  and  Narragansett  Pier  be  quite  impassable  for 
boats. 

At  one  point  on  the  river,  German  students  love  to  perpe- 
trate a  standard  joke,  at  which  all  travelers  have  laughed  for 
twenty  years,  but  which  still  causes  merriment.  The  echo 
here  from  either  bank  is  so  exceptionally  fine,  that  students 
often  shout  the  question,  "  What  is  the  Mayor  of  Oberwesel  ?  " 
The  echoed  answer  comes  back  from  the  hills,  " Esel"  that  is 
to  say,  "an  ass." 


THE    RHINE 


THE   LORELEI. 


The  Rhenish  village  of  St.  Goar  derives  its  name  from  an 
old  saint  of  the  most  remarkable  character  and  habits,  who 
flourished  here  eight  hundred  years  ago.  Professionally  he 
was  a  boatman,  and  ferried  people  back  and  forth  across  the 
Rhine ;  but  not  content  with  this,  he  sought  to  convert  the 
heathen  of  this  region  to  Christianity.  His  methods,  however, 
were  peculiar.  One  day,  for  example,  as  he  was  rowing  a 
traveler  across  the  Rhine,  an  idea  suddenly  came  to  him  like 
an  inspiration.  Ceasing  to  row,  he  asked  his  passenger  if  he 
were  a  Christian.  The  man  replied  that  he  was  not.  Where- 
upon St.  Goar  immediately  rushed  upon  him,  plunged  him  over 
the  side,  and  baptized  him,  ere  the  astonished  man  had  time  to 
catch  his  breath.  Then,  for  fear  that  such  a  quick  conversion 
might  not  last,  he  left  him  in  the  Rhine  to  drown,  so  that  he 
might  go  at  once  to  Paradise.  The  legend  adds  that,  the  same 
night  the  soul  of  the  drowned  man  appeared  to  St.  Goar,  and, 
far  from  reproving  him  for  his  rough  treatment,  thanked  him 
for  thus  securing  to  him  the  joys  of  Heaven.  Thenceforth 


THE   RHINE 


THE   SIREN'S   CLIFF. 


the  valiant  saint 
doubted  no  more 
that  baptizing  was 
his  vocation,  and 
hardly  a  day 
passed  without  an 
immersion.  It  is 
true,  the  bishop 
of  the  town  re- 
proved him  for 
his  undue  vio- 
lence, but  the 
saint  immediately 
wrought  a  miracle 
by  hanging  his  hat 
on  a  sunbeam,  and 
the  bishop  could 

not  say  a  word.  Nevertheless,  this  system  of  compulsory  bap- 
tism lasted  only  a  short  time ;  for,  naturally  enough,  as  soon  as 
his  habits  became  known,  each  passenger,  when  in  the  middle 
of  the  stream,  would  always  make  the  sign  of  the  cross,  and 
swear  with  chattering  teeth  that  he  was  a  Christian. 

At  a  little  distance  below  St.  Goar,  the  finest  scenery  on 
the  Rhine  reveals  itself,  where  the  imposing  cliffs  of  the 
Lorelei  rise,  dark  and  threatening,  to  the  height  of  four  hundred 
and  fifty  feet.  Combined  with  beauty  here,  there  used  to  be, 
in  the  days  of  small  boats,  dependent  merely  upon  oar  and  sail, 
an  element  of  danger.  For  at  this  point  the  Rhine  is  some- 
times turbulent,  and  in  a  distance  of  one  hundred  yards  the 
inclination  of  the  river-bed  is  about  five  feet.  Even  now,  a 
sunken  ledge  still  makes  a  whirlpool,  dangerous  to  small  craft, 
unless  skillfully  managed.  The  curious  legend  of  the  place 
is,  therefore,  easily  explained;  for,  in  the  evening,  when  the 
white  foam  beat  against  the  rocks,  and  the  pale  moonbeams 


THE    RHINE 


73 


rested  phantom-like  on  the  frowning  cliffs,  the  peasants  fancied 
they  perceived  the  golden  hair  and  ivory  shoulders  of  a  siren 
who  lured  poor  mariners  to  their  destruction.  But  now,  at 
all  events,  the  Lorelei  has  lost  her  power.  A  railroad  tunnel 
perforates  the  rock,  the  steamboat's  whistle  drowns  the  melody 
of  her  voice,  and  she  spreads  the  meshes  of  her  whirlpool-net 
in  vain. 

Not  far  below  this  siren-haunted  cliff,  I  visited  one  day 
two  famous  ruins,  standing  side  by  side,  called  the  Castles  of 
the  Brothers.  The  picture  of  the  Rhine,  seen  through  the 
crumbling  arches,  was  enchanting,  but  the  old  walls  were 
gaunt  and  bare  as  skeletons,  and  their  deserted  windows  called 
to  mind  the  eyeless  sockets  of  a  skull.  Their  legend  is  well 
suited  to  the  place ;  for,  it  is  said,  two  brothers  once  resided 
here  in  perfect  harmony,  until  a  fatal  shadow  crossed  their 
path  in  the  form  of  a  mad,  unconquerable  passion  for  the  same 
woman.  In  such  a  love,  appeals  to  generosity  are  useless. 
Neither  brother  would  yield  his  claim ;  and  upon  a  narrow 
ledge  between  the  castles  they  finally  met  in  mortal  combat. 


THE   CASTLES    OF   THE   BROTHERS. 


74 


THE   RHINE 


At  the  same  instant, 
the  sword  of  his  op- 
ponent pierced  each 
lover's  breast,  and 
the  two  brothers  fell 
in  death,  a  look  of 
hatred,  yetof  triumph, 
on  each  face. 

The  massive  walls 
of  Falkenburg  com- 
memorate a  famous 
bandit  of  the  Rhine, 
named  Falkenstein, 
who  on  one  occasion 
looked  with  envious 
eyes  upon  the  silver  bell  of  a  church,  and  caused  it  to  be 
brought  to  him  that  he  might  melt  it  into  coin.  The 
bishop,  struck  with  horror  at  the  sacrilege,  went  to  the 
castle  in  his  priestly  robes  to  demand  its  return.  At  this, 
Falkenstein  burst  into  a  roar  of  laughter,  saying :  "  You 
wish  to  have  your 


FALKENBURG. 


you 


bell,  do 
Well,  you  shall 
have  it  hence- 
forth forever." 
Thereupon  the 
bell  was  tied 
about  the  bishop's 
neck,  and  both 
were  thrown  into 
the  dungeon-well 
of  the  tower, 
and  covered  with 
stones  to  the 


THE  JUNCTION   OF   THE   RHINE   AND   MOSEL. 


THE    RHINE 


75 


depth  of  six  feet.  A  few  days  afterward  Falkenstein  fell  ill, 
and  when  night  came,  the  doctor  and  astrologer  who  watched 
beside  his  bed  heard  with  terror  the  knell  of  the  silver  bell 
coming  from  the  depths  of  the  earth.  The  awful  sound  con- 
tinued until  midnight,  when,  at  the  last  stroke  of  twelve, 
Falkenstein  expired.  Since  then,  as  regularly  as  the  anni- 
versary of  the  desperado's  death  comes  round,  it  is  said  the  bell 
can  be  heard  ringing  under  the  ruined  castle. 

Not  far  from  this  point,  we  approach  the  confluence  of 
the  Rhine  and  the  Mosel,  the  water  of  which  is  as  pleasing 
to  the  sight,  as  is  to  the  taste  the  sparkling  Mosel  wine  pro- 
duced along  its  banks.  This  river,  even  after  uniting  with 
the  Rhine,  preserves  for  a  long  time  its  emerald  color,  as 
though  unwilling  to  mingle  its  French  waters  with  the  waves 
of  Germany.  The  city  of  Coblentz  which  is  situated  at  the 
union  of  these  streams  has  an  interesting  history.  Here, 
eighteen  hundred  years  ago,  the  Romans  founded  a  city 
named  appropriately  Confluentes ;  and  hither,  after  the  death 


EHRENBRE1TSTEIN. 


THE    RHINE 


of  Charlemagne,  his  grandsons  came  to  divide  between  them 
his  gigantic  empire.  In  a  military  point  of  view  Coblentz 
is  of  great  importance,  and  hence  is  thoroughly  protected, 
not  only  by  its  own  massive  walls  and  a  connected  series  of 
strong  forts,  but  also  by  the  mighty  citadel  of  Ehrenbreitstein, 
just  across  the  Rhine.  This  stone  colossus  is  defended  by 
four  hundred  cannon,  and  is  said  to  contain  fifty  thousand 
needle-guns,  and  stores  of  provisions  capable  of  maintaining 
an  army  of  eight  thousand  men  for  ten  years,  while  it  derives 

its  water  from 
deep  wells  dug 
within  its  own 
enclosure.  Its 
very  name,  the 
Broadstone  of 
Honor,  is  impos- 
ing ;  and,  rising 
as  it  does  in  mas- 
sive majesty  four 
hundred  feet 
above  the  river, 
it  seems  suffi- 
ciently ^impreg- 
nable to  deserve 
the  appellation 
sometimes  given  it  of  the  "Gibraltar  of  the  Rhine." 

The  most  beautiful  feature  of  Coblentz  is  the  Rhine  Prome- 
nade, which  borders  the  historic  stream  for  more  than  two 
miles.  I  hardly  know  a  prettier  walk  in  Europe  than  this 
river-avenue;  for,  aside  from  its  charming  situation,  it  is  a 
thing  of  art  and  beauty.  Far  from  being  a  mere  prome- 
nade, as  the  name  might  imply,  it  is  a  lovely  garden,  sloping 
to  the  Rhine,  kept  with  the  utmost  care,  shaded  by  noble 
trees,  carpeted  with  turf,  embellished  with  statues,  fountains, 


THE    PROMENADE   AT  COBLENTZ. 


79 

and  elaborate  flower-beds,  and  frequently  enlivened  with  choice 
music.  This  river-park  was  designed  by  the  Empress  Augusta, 
who  was  exceedingly  fond  of  Coblentz,  and  to  her  memory 
a  statue  has  been  erected  here,  which  seems  to  be  contem- 
plating with  serene  satisfaction  the  scene  of  beauty  called 
by  her  into  existence. 

One  evening,  as  I  was  strolling  on  this  promenade,  watch- 
ing the  stars  reflected  in  the  river,  and  reveling  in  the  peace- 
ful beauty  of  the  place,  I  suddenly  heard  in  the  distance  the 
harmonious  voices  of  some  German  students  singing  "  The 
Watch  on  the  Rhine."  It  was  beautifully  sung,  and  I  stood 
spell-bound,  listening  to  the  thrilling  words  which  rang  out 
with  true  manly  vigor  over  the  historic  stream.  I  was  not, 
it  is  true,  a  German,  and  hence  could  not  perhaps  entirely 
appreciate  the  pride  and  joy  therein  expressed;  but  even  as  a 
stranger  from  beyond  the  sea,  I  felt  the  blood  stir  quickly 
in  my  veins,  as  those  rich  voices  sang  beneath  the  stars: 

"  While  yet  one  drop  of  life-blood  flows, 
The  sword  shall  never  know  repose ; 
While  yet  one  arm  the  shot  can  pour, 
The  foe  shall  never  reach  thy  shore. 
Rest,  Fatherland,  for  sons  of  thine 
Shall  steadfast  keep  the  Wacht  am  Rhein." 


8o 


THE   RHINE 


STOLZENFELS. 


The  castle  of 
Stolzenfels,  or 
Proud  Rock, 
which  is  set  in 
a  frame  of  foliage, 
four  hundred  feet 
above  the  river, 
looks  sometimes 
from  the  steamer 
like  a  castle  float- 
ing in  the  air. 
This  picturesque 
chateau  is  said  to 
have  been  in 

existence  for  a  thousand  years,  and  we  can  well  believe  that 
such  a  site  could  hardly  fail  to  be  improved  at  the  earli- 
est opportunity.  Even  in  its  present  restoration,  the  old 
foundation  walls  were  used,  and  its  original  form  was  pre- 
served as  far  as 
possible. 

Like  the 
Rheinstein,  the 
castle  of  Stol- 
zenfels is  now  the 
property  of  Em- 
peror William ; 
and  here  his 
grandmother,  the 
Em  press  Au- 
gusta, loved  to 
spend  a  consid- 
erable portion  of 
her  time.  Her 
choice  is  easily 


THE    RHINE 


81 


comprehended ;  for  what  more  enchanting  home  could  be 
desired  than  this,  in  which  to  pass  some  weeks  or  months 
in  calm  retirement  ?  The  isolation  need  not  be  so  great 
as  one  would  at  first  suppose ;  for  cities  are  within  easy 
distance,  the  railway  and  the  river  lie  below,  while  telephone 

and  telegraph 
wires  convey  to 
it,  at  lightning 
speed,  the  news 
and  gossip  of  the 
world.  Yet,  if 
one  wishes  it, 


A   ROOM    IN   STOLZENFELS. 


here  is  perfect 
quiet.  A  lovely 
forest  offers 
shaded  walks, 
the  air  is  always 
fresh  and  cool, 
and  the  magnifi- 
cent prospect  of  the  Rhine,  stretching  away  for  miles  to 
north  and  south,  surpasses  the  power  of  language  to  describe. 
When  traveling  in  Switzerland,  Greece,  Italy,  or  the  Rhine- 
land,  I  have  never  failed  to  have  with  me  for  immediate 
reference  a  little  volume  of  "Childe  Harold";  and  it  was 
while  looking  down  upon  the  Rhine  from  the  terrace  of 


82 


THE    RHINE 


Stolzenfels,  one  summer  afternoon,  that  I  appreciated  as  never 
before  the  lines  of  Byron  : 

"  The  river  nobly  foams  and  flows, 
The  charm  of  this  enchanted  ground, 
And  all  its  thousand  turns  disclose 
Some  fresher  beauty  varying  round  ; 
The  haughtiest  breast  its  wish  might  bound 
Through  life  to  dwell  delightful  here ; 
Nor  could  on  earth  a  spot  be  found 
To  nature  and  to  me  so  dear, 
Could  thy  dear  eyes  in  following  mine 
Still  sweeten  more  these  banks  of  Rhine." 

Almost   directly   opposite   this    castle   is    the    river    Lahn, 
another    tributary    of    the    Rhine,    upon   whose    banks,    in   a 

charming       little 
valley,  is  the  town 
of  Ems,  a  pretty 
watering      place, 
which     enjoys    a 
world-wide    repu- 
tation.   Upon  the 
summit  of  a  hill 
which     overlooks 
the      town,      the 
Germans        have 
erected  a  national 
monument,      sur- 
mounted    by    an 
eagle ;    for    Ems 
is     closely     asso- 
ciated with  the  nation's  history.     Not  only   was   it   for   years 
a   favorite  resort  of   the  old   Emperor  William,  but,    in    1870, 
it    became    the    scene    of    an    important    political    event.       It 
was   here   that   the   famous   interview    occurred    between    the 
German    Emperor    and    the    French     ambassador    Benedetti, 


STOLZENFELS  AND  THE   RIVER    LAHN. 


THE    RHINE 


in  which  the  Kaiser's  manner  was  construed  as  an  affront 
to  the  French  nation.  It  was  the  one  thing  wanting  to 
precipitate  the  impending  conflict.  France  instantly  declared 
the  war  which  was  to  prove  so  fatal  to  her;  and  thus 
the  spark,  ignited  here  at  Ems,  soon  set  all  Europe  in  a 
blaze,  and  caused  Napoleon  III.  to  be,  within  six  months, 

a  prisoner  at 
Cassel,  and  the 
Kaiser  a  con- 
queror at  Ver- 
sailles. Many 
stories  of  the  old 
Emperor's  life  at 
Ems  are  re- 
counted, one  of 
which  states  that 
on  a  certain  oc- 
casion he  paid 


a  visit  to  an  or- 
phan asylum  in 
the  neighborhood, 
and,  calling  one 

of  the  little  girls,  began  to  question  her.  "My  little  frau- 
lein,"  he  began,  taking  an  orange  from  his  pocket,  "  can 
you  tell  me  to  what  kingdom  this  belongs  ? "  "  To  the 
vegetable  kingdom,"  she  replied.  "  Very  good,"  said  the 
Kaiser.  Then,  holding  up  a  gold  piece,  he  inquired,  "  And 
to  what  kingdom  does  this  belong  ? "  "  To  the  mineral 
kingdom,"  she  answered  promptly.  "Well  done!"  exclaimed 
the  Emperor.  "But  now,"  he  added,  "to  what  kingdom 
do  I  belong  ? "  The  child  hesitated.  She  could  not  say 
that  her  revered  Emperor  belonged  to  the  animal  king- 
dom. Accordingly  she  answered  timidly :  "  Your  Majesty 
belongs  to  the  kin<rdom  of  Heaven ! "  The  old  Kaiser 


THE    NATIONAL    MOXl'MENT,    E.MS. 


86 


THE    RHINE 


smiled,  but  there  were  tears  in  his  eyes,  as  he  replied,  "My 
little  one,  I  hope  that  you  are  right." 

The  visitor  to  Ems,  a  score  of  years  ago,  would  often 
meet,  in  one  of  the  hotels  or  on  the  promenade,  a  thin-faced, 
wrinkled  man,  who  was  none  other  than  the  hero  of  the 
Franco-Prussian  War,  Von  Moltke,  commander-in-chief  of  the 
German  army.  Unlike  the  Emperor  and  Prince  Bismarck, 
he  used  to  travel  with  extreme  simplicity,  and  unannounced, 

for     he     disliked 

receptions  and 
publicity,  and  was 
content  with  the 
plainest  rooms. 
His  traveling  ex- 
periences were, 
therefore,  some- 
times amusing. 
One  afternoon  he 
entered  a  hotel 
at  Ems,  his  satchel 
in  his  hand,  hav- 
ing preferred  to 
walk  the  little  dis- 
tance from  the 

station.  He  wore  the  dress  of  a  civilian,  and  looked  decidedly 
travel-worn  and  dusty.  Accordingly,  the  landlord  told  the 
waiter  to  show  the  old  man  to  a  small  room  under  the  eaves. 
Once  there,  the  waiter  produced  the  usual  card,  and  asked  the 
stranger  to  inscribe  his  name  and  residence.  What  was  the 
landlord's  horror,  when  he  read  the  words,  "  Field  Marshal 
Von  Moltke,  Berlin"!  " Ack,  mein  Gott !  what  have  I 
done  ? "  exclaimed  the  wretched  man,  wringing  his  hands. 
"  I  am  ruined  !  "  Rushing  upstairs,  he  begged  the  marshal  to 
descend.  "  It  is  all  a  mistake,"  he  cried,  "  a  terrible  mistake, 


GENERAL  VIEW   OF   EM 


THE    RHINE 


I  have  beautiful  rooms  for  your  excellency  on  the  first  floor." 
"  What  is  the  price  of  them  ? "  asked  Von  Moltke.  "  Only 
one  hundred  francs  a  day,  your  excellency."  "And  the 
price  of  this  room  ?  "  "  Oh,  a  mere  trifle,  three  francs  a  day." 
"  Then  I  will  stay,"  replied  the  marshal,  "  I  am  quite  comfort- 
able here ;  and 
many  a  time  upon 
the  battle-field,  I 
should  have  been 
very  glad  of  such 
a  bed  as  this." 

Crowning    an 
eminence,  not  far 


from  Stolzenfels, 
is  a  little  struc- 
ture called  the 
Konigsstuhl,  or 
King's  Seat,  not 
as  one  might  sup- 
pose,  because 
some  sovereign 
ever  used  it  as  a  post  of  observation,  but  from  the  fact  that  it 
has  actually  played  an  important  part  in  royal  history.  Five 
hundred  years  ago,  it  was  erected  by  the  Emperor  Charles  IV., 
and  even  now,  although  rebuilt  in  1843,  still  keeps  its  ancient 
form,  and  is  in  part  composed  of  the  original  stones  which  have 


THE   COVERED   GALLERY   AT   EMS. 


THE    RHINE 


THE    SEVEN    MOUNTAINS   AND   NONNENWEKTH. 


successfully  with- 
stood the  storms  of 
centuries.  It  looked 
to  me  as  I  ap- 
proached it  like  a 
roofless  chapel,  but  in  reality  is  an  octagonal  platform  surrounded 
by  seven  arches,  and  supporting  seven  stone  seats  on  which  the 
princes  sat  whose  privilege  it  was  to  choose  the  Emperor  of 
Germany.  Here,  then,  under  the  open  sky,  and  overlooking  the 
majestic  stream  which  mirrored  it,  the  seven  Electors  of  the 
empire  used  to  meet,  not  only  to  select  their  sovereign,  but  to 
make  laws,  issue  proclamations,  and  conclude  treaties  with  for- 
eign nations.  It  gives  one  a  curious  sensation  to  look  upon 
this  simple  "  seat  "  and  realize  how  much  power  was  once  vested 
in  the  men  who  met  here  to  exalt  or  dethrone  kings.  They 
were  in  fact  the  "power  behind  the  throne"  and  entitled  to  all 
royal  dignities  and  honors  save  the  title  of  majesty.  Were  they 
not  wise  to  thus  secure  the  substance  and  let  the  shadow  go  ? 

The    most    conspicuous    elevations    near    the    Rhine    are 
known    as   the   Seven    Mountains.      The   loftiest    of   these    is 


THE    RHINE  91 

the  historic  Drachenfels,  or  Dragon's  Rock,  named  from  that 
legendary  monster  of  the  Rhine  which,  in  the  days  when 
Roman  legions  came  this  way,  was  both  the  scourge  and 
terror  of  the  region.  The  memory  of  this  dragon  has  not 
been  forgotten  ;  for  the  evil  which  beasts  do,  sometimes,  lives 
after  them,  while  "the  good  is  oft  interred  with  their  bones." 
At  all  events,  the  castle  on  this  height  perpetuates  its  story, 
and  the  red  wine  which  comes  from  the  mountain-side  is 
called  by  the  un- 
appetizing title 
of  the  "  Dragon's 
blood." 

The  legend  of 
the  hero,  Sieg- 
fried, who  slew 
the  monster,  and 
became  invulner- 
able by  bathing  in 
its  blood,  has  been 
immortalized  in 
song  and  story. 
Another  myth, 
however,  makes 
the  slayer  of  the 

THE    DRACHENFELS. 

dragon  a  woman. 

According  to  this  tradition,  the  savage  beast  used  to  descend 
the  mountain  every  day,  like  a  roaring  lion  seeking  whom  he 
might  devour.  The  Romans,  however,  resolved  to  change  its 
mode  of  life  and  make  it  more  domestic  in  its  habits.  They, 
therefore,  adopted  the  custom  of  bringing  daily  to  the  dragon's 
cave  some  prisoner  whom  they  had  seized.  One  day,  among 
the  captives,  was  a  girl  so  beautiful  that  two  centurions  were  on 
the  point  of  fighting  a  duel  to  see  which  of  them  should  claim 
her  as  his  own,  when  the  Roman  general  interfered,  and  said 


THE   RHINE 


that  for  the  sake  of  peace,  the  maiden  should  be  given 
to  neither  of  them,  but  should  be  handed  over  to  the 
dragon.  This  decision  was  much  admired  in  the  army,  and 
was  by  some  compared  to  the  judgment  of  Solomon.  The 
next  day,  therefore,  the  victim  was  led  to  the  dragon's  cave. 
The  monster  soon  appeared.  For  some  time  it  had  been 
suffering  from  dyspepsia.  The  Romans  had  not  always  been 

careful  to  remove 
the  sandals  from 
the  feet  of  their 
captives,  and 
these  had  been 
as  hard  for  the 
dragon  to  digest 
as  railway  sand- 
wiches are  for  us. 
At  the  sight, 
therefore,  of  this 
lovely  morsel,  the 
dragon  howled 
for  joy,  and  ad- 
vanced, smack- 
ing its  Mps  and 

rattling  its  scales  like  a  thousand  tambourines.  But  the 
young  maiden  was  a  Christian,  and  in  the  pocket  of  her 
polonaise,  or  whatever  article  of  clothing  corresponded  to 
it,  she  had  a  crucifix.  This  she  drew  forth  and  dis- 
played to  the  advancing  dragon.  At  sight  of  it  the  huge 
beast  stood  for  a  moment  petrified  with  horror ;  then,  with 
a  roar  that  made  the  mountain  tremble,  it  fell  back  down 
the  cliffs,  and  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  below. 
Whichever  legend  we  adopt  as  true,  certain  it  is  that  the 
only  monster  on  the  Drachenfels  to-day  is  the  iron  horse, 
which,  though  occasionally  emitting  fire  and  smoke,  is,  never- 


THE  ASCENT  OF  THE  DRACHENFELS. 


THE    RHINE 


93 


theless,  completely  tamed,  and  in  the  summer  season  meekly 

draws  a  party  of  tourists  to    the   summit   eighteen 

times  a  day.     The  ancient  castle,  built  more  than 

seven   hundred  years    ago,   is    now   a    melancholy 

ruin,   but,  since    1883,    the    mountain    has 

been    crowned    by    a    magnificent   edifice 

called     the    Drachenburg,    which    is    the 

property    of   a   wealthy    German 

baron. 

The  view  from  the 
summit  of  the  Drach- 
enfels  is  glorious. 
The  river  lies  like 
an  avenue  of  silver, 
between  two  limitless 


THE   RUINED   CASTLE   OF   THE  DRACHENFELS. 


expanses  of  variously  colored  cultivated  fields,  traversed  by 
lines  of  tiny  roads  resembling  wires  on  a  vase  of  cloisonne, 
and  clotted  here  and  there  with  white-walled  buildings,  which 
in  the  distance  look  like  children's  playthings  scattered  on  a 

Persian  rug.  I 
know  of  nothing 
comparable  to 
the  impression 
gained  by  look- 
ing down  from 
a  great  height 
upon  a  thickly 
settled  plain.  If 
one  can  only  be 
alone  at  such  a 
time,  and  have 
an  opportunity 
to  think  quietly, 
he  can  easily 


URACHENm-RG. 


94 


THE    RHINE 


imagine  himself  contemplating  the  world  from  another  sphere, 
and  hence  can  fancy  how  our  earth  must  look  to  those  re- 
moved from  all  its  sordid  cares  and  petty  intrigues.  For, 
at  that  elevation,  the  towns  have  dwindled  into  ant-hills,  and 
human  beings  rushing  to  and  fro  in  them,  if  visible  at  all, 
appear  like  insects;  and  their  ambitions,  quarrels,  loves,  and 
hates  seem  hardly  more  important  than  the  vibrations  of  a 
gnat's  wings,  compared  with  the  sublime  ideas  of  Time  and 
Space,  Creation  and  Eternity,  which  meet  him  face  to  face 
upon  the  heights,  and  show  him  all  that  he  has  lost  by  lin- 
gering so  long  below. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  from  the  Drachenfels, 
and  at  an  elevation  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the 
Rhine,  stands  the  ruined  tower  of  Rolandseck,  the  view  from 
which  is  almost  unsurpassed.  Of  all  the  ruins  on  the  river 


VIEW    FROM   THE   DRACHENFELS. 


THE    RHINE 


95 


A   GLIMPSE    FROM    ROLASDSECK. 


this  has,  perhaps, 
the  most  poetic 
legend  ;  for  it  is 
said  to  have  been 
built  by  the  brave 
and  handsome 
Roland,  the  neph- 
ew of  Charle- 
magne. Accord- 
ing to  one  of  sev- 
eral stories,  he 
was  betrothed  to 
the  daughter  of 
the  Lord  of 
Drachenfels,  the 
fairest  maiden  on  the  Rhine,  and  they  had  pledged  themselves 
before  God,  either  to  wed  each  other,  or  to  renounce  the  world. 
But  ere  the  nuptials  could  be  celebrated,  Roland  was  sum- 
moned by  Charlemagne 
to  the  war  against  the 
Moors.  There  he  accom- 
plished prodigies  of  valor, 
and,  finally,  in  the  battle 
of  the  Pyrenees,  was 
grievously  wounded  and 
reported  dead.  Hearing 
this  news,  the  broken- 
hearted maiden,  faith- 
ful to  her  vow,  entered 
a  convent.  One  night, 
however,  having  re- 
gained his  health  and 
strength,  Roland  re- 
turned, eager  to  claim 


RUINS   OF   ROLANDSECK. 


THE   RHINE 


his  bride.  To  his  amazement  he  was  told  that  she  was  an  in- 
mate of  a  convent  on  the  neighboring  island  of  Nonnenwerth. 
On  hearing  this,  Roland  himself  renounced  the  world,  and 
building  a  hermitage,  lived  in  full  view  of  the  convent  for 
several  years.  Only  once  in  that  time  did  he  see  the  face  of 
his  beloved;  and  that  was  when  the  sisters  of  the  cloister 
brought  her  forth  for  burial.  Thenceforth  the  unhappy  prince 
refused  all  food,  and  died  with  his  last  glance  turned  toward 
the  island  which  thus  in  life  and  death  had  claimed  from  him 

his  bride. 

Upon  this  is- 
land a  convent, 
embowered  in 
trees,  still  occu- 
pies the  site  of 
the  institution 
founded  centu- 
ries ago,  and  it 
is  said  that  this 
historic  retreat 
was  conceded  to 
the  nuns  by  Na- 
poleon, through 
the  intercession 
of  Josephine,  at 

the   time   when    all   other   religious   establishments   along   the 
Rhine  were  abolished  by  the  French. 

We  may  smile  at  the  old  Rhenish  legends  as  improbable 
and  childish,  and  yet  to  the  ideas  which  underlie  them  the 
world  owes  some  of  those  immortal  compositions  which  must 
no  longer  be  regarded  as  the  "music  of  the  future,"  but  the 
music  of  the  century.  Wagner  perceived  the  strength  and 
beauty  of  the  northern  myths  and  drew  from  them  material 
for  his  noblest  inspirations.  Then,  bringing  to  the  Rhine  the 


THE   RHINE   AND    NONNENWERTH. 


LAHNECH,   ORERLAHNSTEIN. 


THE    RHINE 


99 


legendary  heroes  of  the  North,  he  wove  about  them  the  en- 
chanting robes  of  music,  poetry,  and  romance. 

The  Rhine  itself  with  its  eternal  movement  toward  the 
sea,  the  changeless  calm  within  its  depths,  the  rhythmic  undu- 
lation of  its  surface,  the  whisper  of  its  wavelets  in  the  rushes, 
the  clamor  of  its  current  on  the  rocks,  and  the  wild  fury  of 
its  falls,  furnished  the  motive  for  some  of  his  sublimest 
passages. 

There  is,  in- 
deed, a  power  in 
the  Norselancl 
Sagas  that  makes 
them  masterful 
and  virile ;  and 
such  conceptions 
as  the  Rheingold, 
the  valiant  Sieg- 
fried, the  weird 
Valkyrie,  and  the 
Twilight  of  the 
Gods,  are  better 
suited  to  Wag- 
ner's music  than 
the  more  effemi- 
nate mythology  of  the  south  could  ever  be.  The  Valhalla, 
not  Olympus,  is  Wagnerian. 

In  full  view  of  the  Seven  Mountains  lies  the  pretty  city  of 
Bonn,  famed  for  its  university  of  fifteen  hundred  students.  It 
is  a  pleasant  place  in  which  to  spend  a  few  days  of  the  fort- 
night or  three  weeks  which  can  be  profitably  given  to  a  tour 
in  Rhineland ;  for  its  hotels  are  excellent,  the  surrounding 
scenery  charming,  and  the  excursions  to  be  made  from  it 
delightful.  Among  the  celebrated  names  associated  with  Bonn 
are  those  of  the  historian  Niebuhr  and  the  philosopher  Schlegel, 


THE    ISLAND    OF    NONNENWERTH. 


100 


THE    RHINE 


who  taught  in  its  university ;  the  composer  Beethoven,  whose 
birthplace  it  was ;  and  the  poet  Arndt,  whose  noble  life  here 
reached  its  end.  To  the  composer  and  poet,  monuments  have 
been  erected,  and  as  I  stood  before  them  and  reflected  on  the 
rarity  of  men  who  rise  thus  from  the  wilderness  of  mediocrity, 
and  are  thenceforth  distinguished  evermore  from  the  innumer- 
able nameless  dead,  I  was  profoundly  convinced  of  the  potency 
and  value  of  individuality  in  human  history.  It  was  Socrates, 
not  the  Athenians,  who  gave  mankind  the  ideas  handed  down 
to  us  by  his  disciples  Xenophon  and  Plato ;  it  was  Caesar,  not 
the  Roman  legions,  who  conquered  Gaul,  invaded  Britain, 
vanquished  Pompey,  and  unified  the  Roman  world ;  it  was 
Frederick  the  Great,  not  the  Prussian  army,  who  kept  at  bay 
the  three  great  European  powers  for  seven  years ;  it  was 
Napoleon,  not  his  marshals,  nor  even  the  spirit  of  the  Revolu- 
tion, who  entered  nearly  every  capital  as  conqueror,  created 
kings,  and  was  the  arbiter  of  Europe  for  a  dozen  years.  The 


THE    RHINE 


101 


masses  of  humanity  are  like  the  steppes  or  prairies  of  our  earth, 
—  extensive,  useful,  and  productive,  but  painfully  monotonous 
and  uniform.  The  leaders  of  the  race,  however,  are  like 
mountains  which  lift  their  heads  toward  heaven,  discern  the 
future  and  survey 
the  past,  hold 
converse  with 
each  other  over 
the  intervening 
fields  and  foot- 
hills, catch  the 
first  promise  of 
the  rising  sun, 
reflect  it  to  a  dark- 
ened world  be- 
neath, and  finally 
pass  on  the  solar 
radiance  to  more 
distant  peaks,  till 
their  refulgent 
summits  seem  like  a  line  of  torch-bearers  encircling  the  globe. 

It  is  difficult  to  think  of  either  Shakespeare  or  Beethoven 
as  a  child,  and  yet  the  man  whose  influence  in  music  has  been 
as  helpful  and  inspiring  to  the  race  as  Shakespeare  was  in  lit- 
erature, played  as  a  boy  in  these  old  streets  of  Bonn. 

Equally  remarkable  in  another  way  was  the  poet  Arndt,  the 
inspired  bard  of  Germany  during  the  great  uprising  of  the 
nation  against  Napoleon.  His  patriotic  songs  were  then  to 
German  hearts  what  military  music  is  to  weary  limbs,  and  his 
immortal  lyric  :  "  What  is  the  German.  Fatherland  ? "  —  "  Was 
ist  des  Deutschen  Vaterlandf"  —is  still  almost  as  popular  in 
Germany  as  the  "  Watch  on  the  Rhine."  At  a  time  when  from 
all  parts  of  Germany  recruits  were  hurrying  to  the  front,  with 
the  one  purpose  of  liberating  their  country  from  the  oppression 


STATUE   OF   BEETHOVEN. 


IO2 


it   had  borne  so  long,  the  fol- 
lowing    lines     were     sung 
upon  the  march  or  round 
their    camp-fires,    and 
awakened    wonderful 
enthusiasm   and   fra- 
ternal feeling : 


STATUE   OF   ARNDT. 


"What   is   the  German's 

Fatherland  ? 
The    Prussian    land?     the 

Swabian  land? 

Where  Rhine's  thick-cluster- 
ing fruitage  gleams? 
Where   on   the    Belt   the  sea-mew 

screams  ? 
Not  these  the  land ; 
His  is  a  wider  Fatherland. 


What  is  the  German's  Fatherland? 
Bavarian,  or  Westphalian  land? 
Where  on  the  Dunes  the  wild  sand  blows? 
Or  where  the  Danube  brawling  flows? 

Not  these  the  land ; 
His  is  a  wider  Fatherland. 

What  is  the  German's  Fatherland? 
Oh,  name  at  length  this  mighty  land  ! 
As  wide  as  sounds  the  German  tongue, 
And  German  hymns  to  God  are  sung, 

That  is,  the  land  ; 
That,  German,  name  thy  Fatherland. 

To  us  this  glorious  land  is  given ; 

O  Lord  of  Hosts,  look  down  from  heaven, 

And  grant  us  German  loyalty, 

To  love  our  country  faithfully  ; 

To  love  our  land, 
Our  undivided  Fatherland." 


Besides    his     patriotic     songs,     Arndt     also    wrote     some 
pamphlets  —  notably  the  "Spirit  of  the  Age"  and  a   "Gate- 


THE    RHINE 


105 


chism  for  Germany's  Defenders "  —  whereby  he  appealed 
directly  to  the  purest  impulses  and  noblest  sentiments  of  his 
countrymen.  It  is  fitting,  therefore,  that  he  should  have 
lived,  revered  and  beloved  by  every  one,  to  the  extreme  age 
of  ninety  years,  "  a  marvel  of  vitality,  faith,  and  heartiness, 
—  a  wonderful  old  man."  His  house  in  Bonn  was  near  the 
Rhine,  and  overlooked  the  river  at  perhaps  the  most  beauti- 
ful portion  of  its  course.  On  a  stone  bench  by  his  door 
old  "  Father  Arndt,"  as  he  was  called,  would  sit  for 
hours,  gazing  upon  the  ^•fife  Rhine,  and  musing  on  the 
national  changes  and  improvements  he  had 


GODESBURG   CASTLE.  — 


seen  and  helped  to  bring  about ; 

and  when  he  died,  in  1860,  an 

immense  multitude  of  people  followed  his  body  to  the  grave. 

He    had  already  marked  the   place   where    he   desired   to   be 

buried,    under   an  oak  tree  planted  by  his   own    hands;    and 

there,  before  the  grave  was  closed,  one  of  his  own  inspiring 

hymns    was    sung,    and,    as    the    music    of   its   closing    words 


io6 


THE    RHINE 


THE    RHINE,    NEAR    ROLANDSECK. 

the  splendid  panorama  of  the 
wealthiest  and  most  renowned, 
even  in  Roman  history,  and 
was  occasionally 
called  the  "Rome 
of  the  North." 
Here  Trajan  re- 
ceived the  sum- 
mons to  assume 
the  imperial  pur- 
ple; here  Vitellius 
and  Silvanus  were 
proclaimed  em- 
perors ;  and  here 
the  latter  was 
murdered  by  his 
cohorts.  Here, 
also,  in  the  camp 
of  Germanicus, 


floated  away  to 
lose  itself  above 
the  Rhine,  the 
precious  dust  of 
the  old  patriot  was 
given  to  the  em- 
brace of  his  be- 
loved Fatherland, 
which  will  forever 
guard  it  faithfully 
under  the  cross 
of  stone  which 
bears  his  name. 

Of      all      the 
cities  that  adorn 
Rhine,    Cologne   is    both    the 
It  played   a   prominent   part 
during     the     Middle     Ages 


VIEW   OF   COLOGNE. 


THE    RHINE 


107 


Agrippina,  the  mother  of  Nero,  was  born,  who,  in  A.D. 
51,  retaining  an  affection  for  her  birthplace,  established  a 
colony  of  Roman  veterans,  to  which  she  gave  her  name, 
Colonia  Agrippina,  —  whence  the  modern  name  Cologne. 

Numerous  churches  greet  the  eye  as  one  surveys  this 
city  from  the  Rhine,  but  its  dominant  feature  is,  of  course, 
its  glorious  cathedral.  Those  who  beheld  this  building 
twenty  years  ago  would  hardly  recognize  it  now.  Then,  it 
resembled  the 
hull  of  a  huge  ship 
without  masts, 
since  its  great 
towers  lacked 
completion.  For 
centuries  it  had 
remained  unfin- 
ished, —  a  splen- 
did promise  made 
to  God,  but  unful- 
filled. During 
six  hundred  and 
thirty-two  years 
the  mighty  monu- 
ment had  grown, 

little  by  little ;  now  halting  for  a  generation,  now  actually 
retrograding,  and  very  narrowly  escaping  ruin.  Begun  in 
1248,  it  was  .not  finished  till  1880,  when  the  last  stone 
was  finally  placed  in  position ;  and  the  completion  of  the 
edifice  was  celebrated  in  the  presence  of  old  Emperor 
William  and  nearly  all  the  princes  of  Germany.  At 
present  it  has  a  glory  and  a  majesty  that  lift  it  heaven- 
ward above  all  other  churches  in  the  world,  and  make  of 
it  a  vast  stone  arch,  bridging  the  stream  of  time,  down  which 
the  intervening  years  have  swept  on  to  eternity.  It  is  im- 


THE   CATHEDRAL. 


io8 


THE   RHINE 


THE   TOWERS. 


possible  to  gaze 
on  either  the  ex- 
terior or  interior 
of  the  stupendous 
edifice  without 
feeling  well-nigh 
crushed  by  an 
overpowering  re- 
alization of  the 
sublime.  The 
spires  reach  the 
almost  unexam- 
pled height  of 
five  hundred  and 
twelve  feet,  which 
is  just  equal  to 
the  entire  length 

of  the  cathedral ;  and  the  height  of  the  gable  in  the  transept 
exactly  corresponds  to  the  cathedral's  width.  It  is,  therefore, 
the  most  regular  and  stupendous  Gothic  structure  in  existence, 
the  consummation  of  grandeur  and  religion.  When  one  stands 
at  night  beside  its  base,  and  lets  his  gaze  climb  slowly  upward 
over  its  enormous  buttresses  and  towers,  the  effect  is  mountain- 
ous, and  its  architecture  appears  Alpine  in  sublimity,  the  mighty 
shafts  (which  seem  as  solid  as  the  eternal  hills  yet  are  as  grace- 
ful as  the  elm)  rising  until  their  summits  vanish  in  the  gloom, 
like  a  colossal  stairway  leading  up  to  heaven.  At  such  a  time, 
when  we  consider  all  the  numberless  details  of  the  vast  edifice, 
in  flying-buttresses,  statues,  gargoyles,  turrets,  foliage,  and  fret- 
work,—  each  perfect  and  complete,  and  wrought  in  centuries 
past  by  men  who  did  their  little  part,  and  then  passed  on,  yield- 
ing their  place  to  others,  —  the  grand  cathedral  seems  a  fitting 
emblem  of  the  progress  of  our  race,  and  the  lesson  which  it 
teaches  may  be  thus  interpreted  : 


THE    RHINE 


109 


"  Life  is  a  leaf  of  paper  white, 
Whereon  each  one  of  us  may  write 
His  word  or  two,  and  then  comes  night. 
Greatly  begin  !  though  thou  have  time 
But  for  a  line,  be  that  sublime,  — 
Not  failure,  but  low  aim,  is  crime." 

Moreover,  the  history  of  this  building  is  as  full  of  interest 
as  its  grand  framework  is  of  majesty.  The  hands  of  cunning 
artisans  were  fashioning  its  walls  two  hundred  and  fifty  years 
before  Columbus  sailed  for  the  New  World.  It  antedates  by 
fifty  years  the  founding  of  the  Turkish  Empire.  Kingdoms 
have  risen  and  fallen,  cities  and  dynasties  have  flourished  and 
have  passed  away  since  the  original  architect  of  this  cathedral 
saw  its  first  stone  lowered  into  the  place  where  it  has  slum- 
bered all  I  these  years.  And  now  that  the  great  work 
is  done,  and  ft  the  cross  gleams  upon  its  loftiest  pinnacle, 
how  sad  it  seems  that  its  creator's 
name  should  be  unknown  !  For  it  is  his 


THE   GLORY   OF   COLOGNE. 


I  IO 


THE   RHINE 


THE   INTERIOR   OF   COLOGNE   CATHEDRAL. 


design  that  has  thus  triumphed  over  time  and  all  inferior  sug- 
gestions for  six  hundred  years.  This  fact  has  been  accounted 
for  by  a  legend,  which  states  that  the  architect  was  one  night 
walking  on  the  river's  bank,  despairing  of  ever  achieving  his 
ideal,  when  Satan  suddenly  appeared  to  him  and  offered  him 
the  most  magnificent  plan,  if  he  would  give  him  in  exchange 
his  soul.  "  Will  my  name  become  famous  ?  "  asked  the  artist. 
"  It  will  forever  rank  with  that  of  Phidias,"  was  the  reply. 
The  architect  begged  for  a  night  in  which  to  consider  the 
matter,  and  consulted  a  cunning  priest,  who  advised  him 
to  take  the  devil's  plan  for  a  moment  in  his  hands,  and, 
while  conversing,  to  glance  at  it  and  master  its  details.  The 
artist  did  so,  and  then  declined  to  make  the  bargain.  Where- 
upon Satan,  seeing  himself  outwitted,  cried  :  "  You  have  broken 
faith  with  me.  So  be  it.  Only  remember  this,  and  let  it  haunt 
your  dying  hour,  that  when  this  temple  shall  have  been  com- 


THE    RHINE 


in 


pleted  after  my  design,  and  the  whole  world  is  ringing  with 
its  praises,  your  name  will  be  entirely  unknown."  Whatever 
we  may  think  of  the  legend,  the  architect's  reward  has  cer- 
tainly been  oblivion. 

Beyond  Cologne,  the  Rhine  sweeps  onward  like  a  king 
whose  fame  and  power  are  secure.  Its  life-work  is  well- 
nigh  accomplished.  It  has  apparently  received  from  the 
uplifted  towers  of  the  old  cathedral  its  absolution  and  its 
benediction.  What  a  career  it  has  had  since  we  first  beheld 
it,  leaving  its  cradle  in  the  glacier,  clearing  Schaffhausen's 
barrier  at  a  bound,  or  gliding  by  the  castles  on  its  banks ! 
Once  more  it  calls  to  mind  a  human  life,  but  now,  a  life  the 
sands  of  which  are  running  low,  and  whose  long  drama  has- 
tens to  completion  ;  for,  at  its  terminus, 

silently  awaiting         .^^^  "~"\.        its   inevi- 

table   com-       ./^  ^^.      ing,    is 

the  open       /  \         L*  \^     sea. 


''  THE    OPEN    SEA.* 


112 


THE    RHINE 


Disraeli  said  that  life  consists  of  three  parts :  youth,  a  delu- 
sion ;  manhood,  a  struggle ;  old  age,  a  regret.  How  true  this 
is  of  the  delusion  and  the  struggle,  we  all  know ;  but  few 
regrets  can  sadden  a  career  which,  like  the  noble  river  we 
have  followed,  leaves,  after  years  of  progress  and  beneficence, 
its  finished  duties  and  confining  shores  for  the  unbounded 
ocean  of  a  higher  destiny. 


BELGIUM 


THE  supreme  benefit  of  travel  lies  in  the  priceless 
recollections  which  we  bring  back  from  our  wander- 
ings. Memory  is  the  key  that,  in  our  hours  of 
revery,  unlocks  hall  after  hall  of  happy  reminiscences  -whose 
number  and  variety  are  limited  only  by  the  tours  we  have 
made.  Travel  enables  us  to  make 
the  conquest  of  the  world,  appre- 
ciative observation  garners  up  its 
harvest,  and  memory  furnishes 
the  feast.  The  only  joys  of 
which  we  are  sure  are  those 
of  memory.  Behind  the  pleas- 
ure of  the  present  lurks  the 
fear  of  loss  ;  before  anticipated 
happiness  lies  the  dread  of 
disappointment ;  but  joys  we 
have  experienced  remain  in  mem- 
ory beyond  the  possibility  of  change. 

Many    experiences    in    the    trav- 
eler's    life     are     more     enjoyable     in 
retrospect     than      in      reality.         Bad 

weather,  illness,  accidents,  or  uncongenial  company  may  sadly 
mar    our   happiness    in    picture-gallery   and    cathedral,    or    on 


KING    LEOPOLD. 


u6 


BELGIUM 


M?K,    BRUSSELS. 


lake  and  moun- 
tain-pass ;  but 
when,  in  the 
leisure  of  life's 
autumn,  we  men- 
tally survey  the 
fields  of  travel, 
we  find  that 
while  the  wings 
of  time  have 
scattered  the 
chaff,  judgment 
has  winnowed 
and  memory  has 
preserved  all  that 
was  precious  in 
the  golden  grain. 

A  tourist  may  return  from  travel  penniless,  yet  be  a  men- 
tal millionaire ;  while  some  illiterate  Croesus,  who  has  never 
visited  the  shrines  of  Nature,  Art,  and  History  is,  in  the 
realm  of  memory,  a  bankrupt.  For  the  enthusiastic  traveler 
a  word,  a  sound,  a  perfume,  or  a  picture  may,  like  the  fabled 
touch  of  Midas,  transmute  the  most  prosaic  substance"  into 
gold.  Oh,  the  joy  of  it !  To  have  a  simple  strain  of  music 
bring  before  us  moonlit  evenings  on  the  Grand  Canal,  a 
roseate  cloud  recall  the  Alpen-glow  upon  Mont  Blanc,  a 
passing  Japanese  remind  us  of  the  sacred  grove  of  Nikko,  the 
rhythm  of  a  waltz  transport  us  to  the  Danube,  the  tawny  sand 
within  an  hour-glass  hint  of  the  Sahara,  and  the  rich  fra- 
grance of  a  Jacqueminot  suggest  the  rose  garden  where  blooms 
in  fadeless  beauty  that  perfect  flower  of  architecture, — the 
Taj  Mahal. 

For  those  whose  memories  cannot  be  awakened  thus,  Art 
furnishes  the  more  direct  suggestion  of  the  photograph.  The 


BELGIUM 


117 


sun  has  now  become  man's  slave,  and  through  its  subtile 
agency  the  wonders  of  the  world  are  printed  with  infallible 
accuracy,  and  multiplied  so  easily  that  the  humblest  village 
of  a  civilized  country  possesses  sun-etched  reproductions  of 
fine  scenery  and  works  of  art,  just  as  a  wayside  pool  may 
hold  within  its  shallow  breast  the  beautiful  re- 
flection of  a  cloudless  sky. 

The  benefits  of  travel  — 
who  can  doubt 
them  ?  It  were 
as  foolish  to  deny 
the  good  results 
of  reading.  What 
is  the  whole  world 
but  an  open  book, 
whose  author  is 
Almighty  God,  and 
on  the  pages  of 
which  have  been 
written  more  or 
less  distinctly  sto- 
ries of  the  various 
races  of  humanity  ? 

I       am        pro- 
foundly      grateful 
for     the     irrepres- 
sible    longing     to 
visit  the  Old  World 
that    made    my 
childhood 
one  long 
dream 
of    his- 
tory and 


THE   CATHEDRAL   OF   ST.    GUDULE,    BRUSSELS. 


u8 


BELGIUM 


travel;  for  by  its  realization  the  remainder  of  my  life  will 
be  replete  with  memories  which  are  at  once  a  joy  and  an 
inspiration. 

At  any  moment,  I  can  walk  in  fancy  through  the  picture- 
gallery  of  memory,  and  see  countless  landscapes  tinted  by  the 

suns  of  many  lands.  With 
slower  pulse  and  calmer 
heart,  I  feel  the  youthful 
eagerness  for  sight-seeing 
and  adventure  gradually 
changing  into  a  profound 
contentment,  born  of  the 
knowledge  that  the  mental 
pictures,  gathered  through 
a  score  of  years,  cannot  be 
taken  from  me,  and  are  des- 
tined to  remain,  fadeless 
and  indestructible  while  life 
shall  last.  No  vandal  hand 
can  mar  my  inner  vision 
of  the  Himalayas.  Saint 
Peter's  dome  may  be  destroyed  by  fire,  but  I  shall  see  it  still 
in  its  perfection.  No  dust  can  gather  on  the  scenes  Mollow 
with  closed  eyes,  as  memory  deftly  draws  the  curtain  of  imagi- 
nation and  unfolds  the  panorama  of  the  past.  In  castle  or 
cottage,  wealth  or  poverty,  my  treasures  will  not  leave  me ; 
and  in  my  easy  chair  I  make  the  tour  of  the  world  upon  the 
wings  of  thought  with  perfect  ease,  floating  on  waters  which 
lave  distant  shores ;  tracing  familiar  mountains  in  the  sun- 
set clouds ;  kneeling  in  temple,  church,  or  mosque ;  drifting 
through  tropic  seas ;  climbing  the  cones  of  Popocatepetl  and 
Vesuvius ;  and  watching  either  the  sudden  disappearance  of 
the  sun  beneath  the  desert  sands,  or  its  persistent  brilliancy 
at  midnight  in  the  Arctic  sky. 


REMBRANDT. 


BELGIUM 


119 


Among  the  many  scenes  thus  happily  recalled,  few  are 
more  interesting  than  those  connected  with  the  Netherlands. 
For  centuries  Belgium  and  Holland  have  been  called  the  Low 
Countries ;  but  their  deficiency  in  altitude  has  not  consigned 
them  to  obscurity.  On  the  contrary,  if  valiant  men,  fine  arts, 
and  famous  deeds  are  made  the  test  of  greatness,  few  countries 
in  the  world  are  so  conspicuous  in  the  light  of  history.  Com- 
pared with  the  leading  European  nations  of  this  century,  the 
Netherlands  are  at  present  insignificant,  and  it  is  not  improb- 
able that  they  will,  ultimately,  be  absorbed  by  France  and  Ger- 
many, which  stand  continually  ready  to  appropriate  them. 
To-day,  however,  "  lying  low  "  in  their  small,  quiet  corner  of 
the  Continent,  they  form  a  most  attractive  place  of  sojourn 


for  the  traveler ;  as,  in  a  pic- 
times  turn  from  the  large  halls 
display  of  famous  paintings,  to 
cabinet,  where  dainty  minia- 
or  exquisitely  finished  art- 
bination  of  rare  pleasure 

The  Belgians  evidently 
land ;    for    there    is    com- 
igration     from     it,    and 
European      countries 
in  density  of  population 
being  about  four  hun- 
eighty-five  to  the 


ture-gallery,     we     some- 
with   their   bewildering 
enter   a  charming  little 
tures,  cloisonne  faience, 
studies   afford    a   com- 
and  a  sense  of  rest, 
love      their      native 
paratively  little  em- 


none  of  the  other 
equals      Belgium 
(the       average 
dred        and 
square 


THE  BURGOMASTER'S  FOUNTAIN,  BRUSSELS. 


I2O 


BELGIUM 


mile),  while  villages  and  cities  are  so  thickly  strewn  upon 
its  fertile  surface  that  Philip  II.  said  the  whole  country  was 
only  one  large  town.  Of  Holland  Philip  was  less  complimen- 
tary, since  he  called  it  "the  country  nearest  hell." 

The  inhabitants  of  Belgium  are  composed  of  two  distinct 
races,  almost  as  different  from  each  other  in  racial  characteris- 
tics as  are  the  Germans  from  the  French.  The  northern  prov- 
inces, bordering  mainly  on  the  North  Sea,  are  inhabited  by  the 
Flemings,  a  sturdy,  blue-eyed,  fair-haired  people  of  Teutonic 

origin,  somewhat  akin  to 
the  Dutch.  In  fact,  the 
language  spoken  by  them 
closely  resembles  that  of 
Holland,  and  the  Dutch 
and  Flemish  read  each 
other's  newspapers,  al- 
though they  cannot  very 
well  understand  each 
other's  conversation.  In 
this  portion  of  Belgium  — 
which  constitutes  the  real 
Flanders  —  are  located  the 
interesting  old  "  cities, 
Bruges  and  Ghent,  as  well 
as  the  great  seaport,  Ant- 
werp ;  but,  aside  from  the 
important  commercial  in- 
terests of  the  latter  city  and  the  lace-making  of  Ghent  and 
Bruges,  the  population  of  these  provinces  is  mainly  engaged 
in  agriculture. 

In  southern  Belgium,  however,  which  is  the  manufacturing 
part  of  the  kingdom,  lives  an  entirely  different  people  known 
as  the  Walloons.  They  are  descendants  of  the  Gauls,  and  are, 
as  a  rule,  of  a  high-strung  nervous  temperament,  with  dark  com- 


CASTLE  OF  THE  COUNT  OF  FLANDERS. 


BELGIUM 


123 


plexions  and  lively  dispositions,  like  the  French.  These  people 
speak  not  only  French,  but  a  dialect  of  the  French  language, 
known  as  the  Walloon,  which  more  closely  resembles  the  old  pro- 
•ven^al  of  southern  France  than  does  the  modern  French  itself. 

The  splendid  cities  and  prosperous  towns  in  these  Wal- 
loon provinces  of 
Belgium,  full  of 
industrial  life  and 
enterprise,  and 
inhabited  by 
thrifty,  pleasure- 
loving  people,  are 
profoundly  inter- 
esting and  attract- 
ive, and  the  ex- 
quisite beauty  and 
charm  of  their 
river  valleys  and 
wooded  hills, 
dotted  here  and 
there  with  a 
stately  castle,  leave  ineffaceable  impressions  on  the  memory. 

It  is  strange  that  two  such  dissimilar  races  as  the  phleg- 
matic Flemish  farmers  and  the  light-hearted  Walloon  workmen 
should  coalesce  and  form  a  homogeneous  people ;  yet  such  is 
the  fact.  The  Flemish  element  is  the  larger,  constituting  about 
four-sevenths  of  the  population,  and  is  devoutly  Roman  Catho- 
lic in  religion  and  conservative  in  politics ;  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  Walloons  are  usually  very  liberal  in  their  political 
and  religious  views.  Yet  the  two  races  make  a  happy,  con- 
tented people,  and  meet  on  common  ground  in  the  beautiful 
capital,  Brussels,  where  each  is  represented  in  all  branches  of 
the  administration,  as  well  as  in  the  courts  of  justice  and  the 
two  Houses  of  Parliament. 


A    FLEMISH    FAMILY. 


124 


BELGIUM 


Brussels,  the  capital  of  Belgium,  is  often  called  a  minimi  we 
Paris.  In  fact,  a  traveler  suddenly  transported  thither  would 
hardly  know  that  he  was  not  in  some  retired  section  of  the 
French  metropolis.  The  same  language  is  spoken  in  Brussels 
as  in  Paris;  similar  street  <jprnr  greet  us  everywhere ;  the 
creamy  color  of  the  buildings  is  analogous  to  that  which  makes 
the  city  of  the  Seine  so  light  and  Uiecafid  in  appearance;  the 
style  of  architecture,  also,  in  both  cities  is  nearly  identical; 
and  even  the  shops,  cafes,  and  covered  passageways  in  Brus- 
sels are  thorough!}-  Parisian  in  appearance.  Friends  who  have 
lived  in  this  bright  city  of  the  Belgians  assure  me  that  it  is 
far  superior,  as  a  place  of  residence,  to  many  larger  Continen- 
tal capitals ;  and  it  is  therefore  singular  that  Englishmen  and 
Americans  who  wish  to  spend  considerable  time  abroad,  in 
order  to  perfect  themselves  in  the  French  language, 


BELGIUM 


125 


THE   EDEN,    BRUSSELS. 


invariably  go  to 
Paris,  where  the 
large  English- 
speaking  colony 
and  the  incessant 
whirl  of  gaiety 
make  serious 
study  well-nigh 
impossible. 

The  central 
situation  of  Brus- 
sels, also,  renders 
it  very  advanta- 
geous as  a  place 
of  sojourn.  Lon- 
don, Paris,  Berlin, 
and  Berne  are 

about  equally  distant  from  the  Belgian  -metropolis,  which 
may  in  consequence  be  likened  to  the  hub  of  a  wheel, 
upon  the  outer  rim  of  which  some  of  the  principal  Euro- 
pean cities  are  located. 

Many  travelers  consider  Brussels  the  third  handsomest 
capital  in  Europe,  ranking  it  after  Paris  and  Vienna.  Certain 
it  is,  that  with  its  miles  of  superb  boulevards,  shaded  by  noble 
trees  and  flanked  by  magnificent  modern  residences ;  its  splen- 
didly constructed  pavements,  washed  and  swept  every  night 
with  characteristic  Flemish  cleanliness ;  its  Palace  of  Justice, 
Conservatory  of  Music,  Museum  of  the  Fine  Arts,  and  palatial 
Bourse,  in  addition  to  its  venerable  Cathedral  of  St.  Gudule, 
the  Hotel  de  Ville,  and  other  noble  edifices  of  the  past,  it  has 
few  rivals  among  the  leading  cities  of  the  world. 

The  most  interesting  square  in  the  Belgian  capital  is  the 
Place  de  1'Hotel  de  Ville.  Its  history  is  almost  identical  with 
that  of  Brussels ;  for  hardly  one  remarkable  event  in  the  annals 


126 


BELGIUM 


of  the  city  has  lacked  this  area  for  its  scene  of  action.  What 
memories,  therefore,  cluster  round  the  venerable  buildings  which 
front  upon  it. 

On  one  side  stands  that  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, known  as  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  which  still  appears  almost 
as  stately  and  imposing  as  when  its  richly  decorated  walls  sent 
back  in  noisy  echoes  the  revelry  of  brilliant  tournaments,  or 
cast  its  shadow  like  a  pall  upon  some  cruel  execution  in  the 
square  below.  This  noble  edifice  suffered  severely  during  the 


bombardment  of  the  city  by  Louis 
injured  portions  have   been   care- 
original  designs,  and  the  result  is 
diaeval    structures   on    the    Conti- 
teresting  apartment  in  this  historic 
banquet-room,   which   is  adorned 
ings,  and  has  a  ceiling  remarkable 
its  ornamentation.     It  was  here, 
sixteenth  centuries,  that  the  rich 


XIV.,  in  1695,  but  the 
fully  restored  after  the 
one  of  the  finest  me- 
nent.      The  most  in- 
City  Hall  is  the  large 
with    fine   oak  carv- 
for  the  splendor  of 
in  the  fifteenth  and 
Flemish      burghers 


THE    HOTEL    DE    VILLE. 


BELGIUM 


127 


and  the  powerful  Guilds  of  Brussels  used  to  entertain,  \vith  pro- 
verbial hospitality,  the  kings,  dukes,  princes,  and  ambassadors 
who  came  to  them  from  other  lands.  Nor  is  Belgian  hospitality 
a  thing  of  the  past.  In  1890  when  Henry  M.  Stanley  was  a 
guest  of  the  King  of  Belgium,  immediately  after  the  explorer's 
return  from  his  last  trip  through  Africa,  the  Mayor  and  Alder- 
men of  Brussels  gave  a  grand  dinner  in  his  honor  in  this  ancient 
banquet-room.  It  was  a  most  interesting  scene  ;  for  there  were 
gathered  here,  to  meet  the  famous  traveler,  the  ministers  of  Eng- 
land, France,  the  United  States,  and  other  great  Powers,  together 
with  representatives  of  the  highest  Belgian  nobility,  and  the 
leading  men  in  the  professional  and  literary  life  of  the  king- 
dom. Meantime,  looking  down  on  these  distinguished  guests 
were  the  stern,  impressive  faces  of  William  the  Silent,  Maurice 
of  Orange,  Grotius,  Egmont,  Hoorn,  and  other  Dutch  and  Flem- 
ish heroes,  whose 
noble  portraits  in 
Gobelin  tapestry 
adorn  the  sombre 
walls. 

On  the  other 
sides  of  the  Grand 
Place,  as  it  is 
often  called,  are 
still  to  be  seen  a 
number  of  impos- 
ing buildings,  con- 
structed  three 
or  four  centuries 
ago,  yet  well- 
preserved,  with 
elaborate  facades 
and  Gothic  roofs ;  and  these,  together  with  the  Hotel  de  Ville, 
are  eloquent  reminders  of  the  days  when  the  rich  and  powerful 


HOUSE   OF   CHARLES   V. 


128 


BELGIUM 


Flemish  Guilds  governed  all  Flanders,  and  brought  their  coun- 
try to  as  high  a  position  in  respect  to  manufactures,  military 
prowess,  material  prosperity,  and  the  fine  arts  as  was  attained 
by  any  European  nation  of  that  age. 

One  of  the  most  curious  and  interesting  of  these  buildings 
is  known  as  the  House  of  the  King.     This  name,  however,  did 


THE   HOUSE   OF   THE   KING. 


not  indicate  a  residence  of  royalty,  in  the  usual  sense  of  the 
term,  but  merely  signified  the  official  residence  of  the  King  of 
the  Guilds,  who,  as  the  Chief  of  the  Municipality,  lived  here 
and  entertained  with  sumptuous  hospitality  the  city's  guests; 
for  the  liberty-loving  Flemings  held  only  a  nominal  allegiance 
to  the  House  of  Austria,  and  practically  knew  no  other  king 
than  the  chosen  sovereign  of  their  industrial  Unions.  Even 


BELGIUM 


129 


now  in  the  active  life  of  Brussels  the  Grand  Place  still  holds 
a  prominent  position.  It  is  not  only  the  centre  of  all  business 
pertaining  to  the  Municipality,  but  it  is  also  the  site  of  some  of 
the  most  interesting  temporary  markets  that  are  held  in  the 
city.  Once  a  week,  for  example,  from  six  to  nine  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  there  will  be  found  within  this  area  a  great  bird 
market,  when  hundreds  of  canaries,  nightingales,  mocking- 
birds, thrushes,  and  parrots  may  be  seen  flitting  about  in  their 
cages,  chirping,  singing,  whistling,  and  filling  the  air  with 
almost  deafening,  yet  melodious,  sounds.  On  such  occasions, 
the  square  is  chiefly  occupied  by  the  shrewd,  jovial  Flemish 
and  Walloon  peasant  women,  who  are  often  somewhat  boister- 
ous in  their  eager- 
ness to  exchange 
the  silvery  notes 
of  their  feathered 
songsters  for  the 
musical  clink  of 
silver  coins. 
Twice  a  week, 
also,  at  the  same 
hours,  there  is 
held  here  a  flower 
market,  and  the 
whole  square  be- 
comes fragrant 
with  the  perfume 
of  exquisite  roses, 
carnations,  and 

other  floral  products  brought  in  enormous  quantities  from  the 
country  districts.  A  visit  to  either  of  these  markets,  on  a  bright 
spring  morning,  is  a  charming  experience,  and  gives  a  picture 
of  the  industrious  habits,  and  the  happy  and  contented  life  of 
the  people,  that  will  never  fade  from  memory. 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE    BOURSE. 


130 


BELGIUM 


On  one  side  of  the  Grand  Place,  in  front  of  the  House  of 
the  King,  stood  —  until  recently,  when  it  was  removed  to  a 
highly  ornamented  city  park  —  an  impressive  monument  com- 
memorating the  illustrious  heroes  of  the  Netherlands,  Counts 
Egmont  and  Hoorn,  who,  on  the  5th  of  June,  1568,  were 
executed  here  by  order  of  the  Duke  of  Alva.  These  men, 
though  Roman  Catholics  by  birth  and  faith,  had  steadfastly 
opposed  the  cruel  persecution  of  their  countrymen  by  Philip  II., 
and  were  on  this  account  condemned  to  death.  The  execu- 
tion of  Egmont  was  unusually  revolting,  even  for  that  age  of 
pitiless  severity,  since  it  revealed  the  most  shameful  treachery 
and  the  blackest  ingratitude  on  the  part  of  the  Spanish  king. 
Count  Philip  Egmont  was  one  of  the  loftiest  types  of  knightly 


chivalry  and  soldierly  charac- 
ever  pro- 
duced, and 
he  won  for 
his  ungrate- 
ful sover- 
eign, in  a 
desperate 
conflict  with 
the  mar- 
shaled hosts 
of  France, 
the  brilliant 
victory  of 
St.  Quentin, 
in  honor  of 
which  Philip 
had  built 
the  Escorial 
in  Spain. 
Hence  Eg- 


terthat  Europe 


EGMONT   AND   HOORN. 


BELGIUM 


133 


mont's  military  renown  and  distinguished  bravery  were  the 
pride  of  the  Flemish  race.  William  of  Orange,  his  de- 
voted friend,  had  repeatedly  warned  him  of  the  treachery 
of  Philip,  and  implored  him  to  escape.  But  Egmont 
trusted  both  the  Spanish  sovereign  and  his  perfidious  agent, 
Alva,  forgetting  the  popular  proverb  in  regard  to  the  former, 
"  His  dagger  follows  close  upon  his  smile."  When  told  of 
his  inevitable  doom,  Egmont,  despite  his  well-known  courage, 
was  for  a  moment 
overwhelmed  with 
horror  and  surprise, 
and  exclaimed,  "  Alas  ! 
when  I  should  think 
of  God  alone,  I  am 
unable  to  forget  my 
wife  and  children." 
Then,  recovering  his 
composure,  he  re- 
mained calm  and  self- 
controlled  until  his 
death.  A  moment  of 
profound  silence  suc- 
ceeded the  execu- 
tioner's fatal  stroke. 
Tears  filled  the  eyes  of 
many  of  the  Spanish 
soldiers;  for  they  had  admired  Egmont  as  a  gallant  warrior. 
The  French  ambassador,  as  he  gazed  upon  the  scene  from  a 
neighboring  window,  whispered  :  "  There  falls  the  head  before 
which  France  has  trembled  twice."  As  for  the  people,  notwith- 
standing the  presence  of  the  troops,  they  could  not  be  re- 
strained;  and,  rushing  to  the  fatal  block,  they  dipped  their 
handkerchiefs  in  Egmont's  blood,  to  thenceforth  keep  them  as 
memorials  of  the  crime,  and  as  incentives  to  a  terrible  revenge. 


'34 


BELGIUM 


GODFREY   DE   BOUILLON. 


The  monu- 
ment erected  to 
the  memory  of 
Egmont  and  to 
that  of  his  loyal 
friend,  Count 
Hoorn,  is  a  re- 
minder of  the  fact 
(too  frequently 
forgotten)  that,  in 
the  valorous  re- 
sistance made  by 
the  Dutch  against 
the  cruel  and 
colossal  power  of 
Spain,  the  Belgians  joined  with  equal  ardor  and  self-sacrifice; 
and,  although  not  as  successful  as  their  neighbors,  furnished 
nevertheless  some  of  the  grandest  leaders  in  that  mighty 
struggle,  and  many  of  the  noblest  martyrs  to  the  sacred  cause. 
The  Flemish  provinces,  being  easily  reached,  were  quickly  over- 
run by  the  well-trained  troops  of  Spain,  and  consequently  the 
Flemish  people  never  had  the  same  opportunities  as  the  Hol- 
landers for  achieving  victory ;  but  Counts  Egmont  and  Hoorji, 
together  with  many  other  brave  compatriots,  fully  shared  with 
William  of  Orange  and  Louis  of  Nassau  the  dangers  and  pri- 
vations of  that  terrible  war,  and  their  immortal  names  are  held 
to-day  in  solemn  reverence  throughout  the  realm. 

Among  the  prettiest  features  of  Brussels  is  the  Place 
Royale,  where  one  looks  out  from  his  hotel  upon  a  handsome 
square,  adorned  with  the  equestrian  statue  of  Godfrey  de 
Bouillon,  the  hero  of  the  first  crusade.  Brussels,  like  Paris,  is 
not  merely  a  gay,  modern  city  ;  it  has  a  background  of  impress- 
ive history.  This  statue,  for  example,  represents  the  old  cru- 
sader in  the  attitude  which  he  assumed  when,  on  this  very  spot, 


BELGIUM 


135 


in  1097,  he  raised  the  standard  of  the  Cross,  and  urged  his 
fellow-countrymen  to  follow  him  to  Palestine  to  rescue  from  the 
Saracens  the  sepulchre  of  Christ. 

What  an  age  of  enthusiasm  was  that  when  such  appeals 
drew  multitudes  away  from  home  and  kindred,  to  march  thou- 
sands of  miles,  through  endless  difficulties  and  with  no  pe- 
cuniary recompense,  to  fight  with  desperate  courage  for  an 
idea  !  It  was  the  age  that  built  cathedrals  and  worshiped  God 
in  forests  made  of  stone  ;  the  age  of  chivalry,  born  of  a  rever- 
ence for  the  Madonna,  which  made  all  womanhood  appear 
divine ;  and,  above  all,  an  age  of  sentiment,  like  that  which 
caused  the  hero  Godfrey,  when  elected  King  of  Jerusalem,  to 
refuse  to  wear  a  crown  of  gold  in  the  city  where  his  Saviour 
had  worn  a  crown  of  thorns.  Those  days  are  gone.  Cathe- 
drals and  crusaders  would  now  be  anachronisms.  The  ladies 
for  whose  glances  mailed  knights  contended  in  the  tournament, 
or  on  the  tented  field,  have  been  succeeded  by  the  "  New 
Woman."  The  narrow,  mediaeval  river  of  intolerance,  curbed  by 
the  granite  walls 
of  dogma  (and 
hence  impetuous 
in  its  pent-up 
fury)  has  reached 
the  open  sea 
whose  waves 
touch  distant 
shores,  and  whose 
horizon  steadily 
recedes  as  we  ad- 
vance. We  can 
no  more  go  back 
to  the  old  age  of 
simple  faith  and 
ardent  zeal,  than 


THE   BOURSE. 


BELGIUM 


THE   FRONT  OF  THE   PALACE  OF   JUSTICE. 

can  the  stream  return  from  the  broad  ocean  to  its  mountain  chan- 
nel ;  and  yet,  we  sigh  for  something  we  have  lost,  and  with  an 
irrepressible  yearning  for  a  resurrection  of  enthusiastic  faith  and 
feeling,  we  agree  with  Holmes  that  "it  is  faith  in  something,  and 
enthusiasm  for  something,  that  makes  a  life  worth  looking  at." 
One  of  the  finest  modern  buildings  in  the  Belgian  capital  is 
the  Bourse,  which  was  completed  in  1774  at  a  cost  of  a  million 
dollars.  It  seemed  to  me,  at  first,  incredible  that  such  an 
elegant  edifice,  elaborately  adorned  with  Corinthian  columns, 
allegorical  statues,  and  beautiful  reliefs,  could  be  merely  the 
Stock  Exchange ;  yet  it  is  characteristic  of  the  city.  Brussels 
is  wealthy.  Belgium  is  progressive.  It  cannot  boast  of  an 
extensive  territory,  but  it  is  determined  to  make  the  little  that 
it  does  possess  not  only  prosperous  but  beautiful.  As  an  illus- 
tration of  its  enterprise,  it  is  worthy  of  note  that  this  most 


BELGIUM 


137 


densely  populated  country  in  Europe  was  the  first  on  the  Con- 
tinent to  establish  a  system  of  railways. 

The  tourist  in  Belgium  may  well  ask  himself,  therefore, 
"  In  the  present  condition  of  Europe  is  not  a  small,  well-gov- 
erned monarchy  like  this  much  better  off  than  larger  ones 
which  must  maintain  enormous  standing  armies,  and  are  con- 
tinually fearing  war?"  The  policy  of  Belgium  seems  to  be: 
"  Let  others  shake  the  tree  ;  I  will  pick  up  the  fruit." 

The  splendor  of  the  Brussels  Bourse  is  now  surpassed  by 
that  of  the  new  Palace  of  Justice,  the  cost  of  which  was  more 


than  ten  million  dollars.      It 
any  city  a  secular  building 
posing.     It  forms  an  enor- 
of   which  measures  about 
the    centre    rises   a   well- 
hundred    feet    in    height, 
suggests  itself  :    How  there 
as  Belgium  enough  judicial 
structure  necessary.     It  is  a 
fact  that  while  the  other  Eu- 
wasting  life  and  treasure  on 
enormous  burdens  in  prep- 


would  be  difficult  to  find  in 

more   magnificent   and   im- 

mous  rectangle,   each  side 

six  hundred  feet,  while  in 

proportioned  tower,  four 

The     question     naturally 

can  be  in  such  a  tiny  realm 

business  to  make  so  huge  a 

striking  illustration  of  the 

ropean  nations  have  been 

the  battle-field,  or  carrying 

aration   for   war,    Belgium 


THE    COLUMN   OF   CONGRESS. 


133 


BELGIUM 


THE    BASE   OF  THE   COLUMN. 


has  been  em- 
ployed in  peace- 
ful industries,  and 
the  most  splen- 
did and  conspic- 
uous building  in 
her  capital,  to- 
day, is  not  an 
arsenal  for  her 
soldiers,  nor  even 
a  fortress  for  de- 
fense, but  a  pala- 
tial temple  for  the 
goddess  of  justice. 
Almost  every 
European  capital 
is  embellished  by 

at  least  one  lofty  shaft,  characteristic  of  the  nation  and  com- 
memorative of  its  history.  In  London,  it  is  Nelson's  column  in 
Trafalgar  Square ;  in  Paris,  the  Napoleonic  column  in  the  Place 
Vendome  ;  Berlin  is  dominated  by  her  recent  Monument  of  Vic- 
tory ;  and  in  St.  Petersburg  we  find  the  noble  monolith  which 
bears  the  name  of  Alexander  I.  The  Belgian  capital,  also,  has 
a  historic  column,  worthy  to  be  compared  with  those  of  other 
lands.  It  was  erected  to  commemorate  the  founding  of  the 
kingdom  in  1831,  when  its  present  liberal  constitution  was 
adopted,  and  Prince  Leopold  of  Saxe-Coburg  was  elected  king. 
A  statue  of  this  sovereign  (the  father  of  the  reigning  monarch) 
crowns  the  summit  of  the  column  at  a  height  of  two  hundred 
and  eighty-five  feet ;  and  at  the  corners  of  the  pedestal  are  four 
bronze  figures,  which  symbolize  the  basic  principles  of  the  gov- 
ernment: Liberty  of  the  Press,  Liberty  of  Education,  Liberty 
of  Public  Assemblage,  and  Freedom  of  Religious  Worship. 
These  are  four  elements  from  which  we  might  expect  an 


BELGIUM 


141 


almost  perfect  state  to  be  constructed;  and  where  in  Europe 
(all  things  considered)  can  we  find  a  nation  better  governed, 
a  constitution  more  implicitly  obeyed,  a  king  more  liberal  and 
progressive,  and  a  people  happier  and  more  prosperous  ? 

Leopold  II.  of  Belgium  is  distinguished  among  other  sover- 
eigns of  Europe  for  his  unassuming  manners  and  industrious 
habits,  as  well  as  for  the  remarkable  ability  with  which  he  con- 
ducts the  onerous  and  responsible  duties  of  his  high  position. 
I  have  been  told  by  those  who  are  well  informed  that  he  is  the 
busiest  man  in  his  kingdom.  He  usually  rises  before  six  in 
the  morning,  and  may  be  seen  soon  after  superintending  the 
rebuilding  of  his  beautiful  Chateau  of  Laeken,  recently  de- 
stroyed by  fire,  or  consulting  with  his  chief  gardener  over 
the  rare  plants  and  flowers  cultivated  in  his  superb  conserva- 
tory. At  nine  o'clock  he  is  in  the  palace  at  Brussels,  and  dur- 
ing the  entire  day  is  deeply  engrossed  in  the  affairs  of  State : 
examining  voluminous  reports,  consulting  with  his  cabinet  offi- 
cers, receiving  visits  from  ambassadors  and  other  distinguished 
people,  making 
plans  for  the 
amelioration  of 
the  inhabitants 
of  his  Congo- 
State,  and  for 
the  develop- 
ment of  its 
commercial 
life  ;  or  em- 
ployed in  the 
many  details 
which  demand 
the  close  atten- 
tion of  an  en- 
lightened and 


MODERN    BUILDINGS. 


142 


BELGIUM 


progressive  ruler,  desirous  of  securing  the  prosperity  of  his 
country  and  the  welfare  of  his  people.  A  brilliant  diplomat,  a 
shrewd,  far-seeing  statesman,  liberal  in  all  his  ideas  of  govern- 
ment and  administration,  thoroughly  in  sympathy  with  the 
progressive  ideas  of  the  century,  and  sharing  the  hopes  and 
aspirations  of  his  people,  King  Leopold  II.  stands  out  con- 
spicuous as  one  of  the  most  eminent  sovereigns  of  his  time. 
The  Chateau  of  Laeken,  the  King's  summer  home,  situated 
about  three  miles  from  Brussels,  was,  a  few  years  ago,  de- 
stroyed by  fire.  It  was  a  most  beautiful  residence,  and  during 
the  time  when  Belgium  constituted  a  part  of  the  Empire  of 


France,    under   the  first  Na- 
abode  of  the  Emperor  when- 
his  dominions.     A  friend  of 
with    an    invitation    to    dine 
and,  after  the  repast,  as  the 
strolling  with   their   guests 
interesting    rooms    of    the 
denly     stopped,     and     re- 
cally    a    very    interesting 
room  and  from  that  little 
the    downfall     of    Napo- 
who    inquired    how   this 
plied  :  "  In  this  room  and 
peror    Napoleon    wrote 
against   Russia,  in 
moment  I  consider, 
mencement  of  his 
this   chateau  was 
and  royal  family 
ace  in  Brussels, 
New  Year's  re- 
grenadiers  on 
ken,  seeing 


poleon,    it    was    a    favorite 
ever  he  visited  that  part  of 
mine  was  recently  honored 
with  the   King   at  Laeken, 
King     and     Queen     were 
through  some  of  the  most 
chateau,  Leopold  II.  sud- 
marked,  "  This  is  histori- 
apartment,  for  from  this 
table  in  the  centre  began 
leon."      To    my    friend, 
could  be,  the  King  re- 
on  that  table  the  Em- 
his  declaration  of  war 
1812,  from  which 
dates     the     corn- 
downfall."   When 
burned,  the  King 
were  at  the  pal- 
holding      their 
ception.     The 
guard  at  Lae- 
that       the 


MONUMENT   TO    LEOPOLD   I. 


BELGIUM 


THE   QUEEN   OF  BELGR'M. 


When  "  Buffalo  Bill  " 


building  was  doomed,  and  knowing  how 
highly  Leopold  II.  prized  the  Napoleon 
table,   made  extraordinary  efforts  to 
force  their  way  into  the  building 
through   fire,    smoke,    and   falling 
timbers  to  secure  it,  and,  finally, 
to  the  great  delight  of  the  King, 
succeeded   in    rescuing   it   before 
it  had  been  injured. 

The  Queen  of  Belgium  is  a 
Princess  of  the  House  of  Hapsburg, 
and  like  most  of  the  ladies  of  her 
family  is  a  famous  horsewoman.  In 
fact,  for  many  years  she  was  in  the  habit 
of  herself  breaking  in  the  wild  Hungarian 
horses  brought  to  Brussels  for  her  use. 
with  his  troop  of  Cowboys  and  Indians  was  in  Belgium,  in  1891, 
he  gave  entertainments  in  Brussels  for  two  weeks,  and  the 
Queen,  accompanied  by  a  large  number  of  the  nobility,  attended 
several  of  his  exhibitions.  Before  leaving  Brussels,  Colonel  Cody 
with  a  few  friends  obtained  the  privilege  of  visiting  the  superb 
Winter  Garden  of  the  King  at  Laeken.  After  spending  two 
hours  very  pleasantly  in  this  conservatory,  which  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  Europe,  as  they  were  about  to  leave,  they  saw 
the  Queen  approaching,  accompanied  by  officers  and  ladies  of 
her  suite.  She  graciously  asked  the  gallant  scout  if  he  would 
not  like  to  see  her  stables  and  horses,  and  on  receiving  an 
affirmative  reply,  this  democratic  sovereign  personally  con- 
ducted the  party  through  her  royal  stables,  going  into  the 
stalls  herself,  leading  out  her  favorite  thoroughbreds,  com- 
menting on  their  fine  points,  and  in  every  way  showing  her 
intimate  knowledge  of  horses  and  horsemanship. 

This  reference  to  "  Buffalo  Bill "  and  his  associations  with 
royalty  recalls  an    amusing   circumstance   connected  with  the 


144 


BELGIUM 


visit  made  to  Berlin  by  this  distinguished  representative  of 
American  frontier  life.  It  happened  that  at  the  time  of  Colo- 
nel Cody's  advent  into  the  capital  of  Germany,  old  Emperor 
William  was  entertaining  there  three  kings  of  the  smaller 
Germanic  powers.  One  feature  of  "  Buffalo  Bill's "  perform- 
ance is  the  exhibition  of  the  antiquated  Deadwood  coach,  con- 
taining passengers  who  are  attacked  by  Indians  and  rescued 
by  Cowboys.  The  Kaiser  asked  to  be  allowed  to  ride  in 
this  vehicle  with  his  royal  guests,  and 

to  par-      ^^  ^ji^      ticipate     in     this      inter- 

esting experience. 
The  request  was 
of  course  granted, 
and  when  the 
coach  was 
fiercely  as- 
sailed by  howl- 
ing Indians, 
its  inmates 
were  as  usual 
saved  by  the 
gallant  Cowboys. 
After  it  was  oveT,  and 
as  the  royal  party  was 
descending  from  the  coach, 
the  Emperor  remarked, 
"  Colonel  Cody,  I  don't  suppose  this  is  the  first  time  that  you 
have  held  four  kings  ?  "  "  No,  your  Majesty,"  replied  the  quick- 
witted scout,  "  you  are  right,  but  it  is  the  first  occasion  that  I 
ever  held  four  kings  and  the  royal  joker  at  the  same  time." 

The  level  plains  of  Belgium  have  furnished  Europe  with  its 
battle-fields  for  many  centuries.  From  the  time  of  the  Franks 
under  Clovis,  down  to  the  siege  of  Antwerp,  in  1830,  the  wars 
of  western  Europe  have,  to  a  large  extent,  been  fought  out  in 


THE   CHAMBER   OF   DEPUTIES. 


BELGIUM 


Flanders.     Within  a  radius  of  fifty  miles  of  Brussels  there  are 
at  least  twenty-five  broad  plains,  which  offer  admirable  ground 
for  the  maneuvering  of  large  armies.     Hence,  notwithstanding 
the  fact  that  the  neutrality  of  Belgium  is  guaranteed  by  the  five 
great   Powers,  the   Belgian   government  is  so   fearful   lest  this 
little  country  should  be  invaded  either  from  the  East  or  West, 
in  case  of  war  between  France  and  Germany,  that,  of  late  years, 
it  has  constructed  along  the  Meuse  and  Sambre  a  continuous 
line    of    powerful 
steel      forts,      in 
order    to    defend 
the    country   and 
to  protect  its  neu- 
trality.         These 
forts      somewhat 
resemble  our  tur- 
ret  monitors,   be- 
ing    manipulated 
by   powerful   ma- 
chinery   which 
causes    them     to 
disappear     below 
the  surface  of  the 
ground  after  dis- 
charging    their 

tremendous  guns.  They  are  well  located  at  strategic  points 
along  the  two  rivers,  and,  in  case  of  war,  would  prove  a  serious 
obstacle  to  an  invading  army.  They  were  designed  by  the  dis- 
tinguished Belgian  military  engineer,  General  Brialmont,  who, 
a  few  years  ago,  was  sent  for  by  the  Sultan  to  plan  extensive 
fortifications  along  the  Dardanelles,  and  whose  works  on 
modern  defenses  are  used  as  text-books  in  our  artillery  school 
at  Fortress  Monroe. 

The  question,  whether  it  would  be  possible  to  preserve  the 


NAMUR   ON   THE   SAMBRE. 


148 


BELGIUM 


neutrality  of  Belgium  in  case  of  war  between  France  and  some 
other  Continental  Power,  is  extremely  interesting.  It  is  well 
understood  that  this  neutrality  has  been  guaranteed  by  Eng- 
land, France,  Russia,  Prussia,  and  Austria;  yet,  from  a  military 
standpoint,  it  is  also  clear  that  the  powerful  armies  likely  to  be 
organized  upon  its  borders,  in  case  of  war,  would  be  compelled 
to  enter  Belgium  in  order  to  secure  a  position  in  which  to 
attack  each  other.  The  fact  is  not  generally  known  that  at  the 
outbreak  of  hostilities  between  France  and  Germany,  in  1870, 
each  of  these  Powers  was  promptly  informed  by  the  English 
government  that,  when  the  first  soldier  of  either 

army  entered  the  terri-        -j^^^S  torv  of  Belgium  with 

hostile  intent,  Great 
Britain  would  imme- 
diately intervene 
with  her  entire  land 
and  sea  forces.  Still, 
notwithstanding  the 
well-known  views  of 
England  on  this  sub- 
ject, and  the  policy  she  would  be  likely  to  pursue  to  maintain 
Belgian  neutrality,  I  recently  heard  a  distinguished  European 
diplomat  say  that  if  war  should  break  out  between  Franse  .and 
Germany,  the  neutrality  of  neither  Belgium  nor  Switzerland 
would  be  respected  by  either  of  the  contending  forces ;  that  the 
violation  of  neutral  rights  would  be  absolutely  required  by  the 
necessities  of  the  situation;  and  that  the  contending  armies 
would  undoubtedly  be  obliged  to  pass  through  one  or  both  of 
these  neutral  countries,  or  possibly  even  to  fight  on  their  soil. 

The  battle-ground  in  Belgium  which  is  of  most  importance 
in  the  history  of  Europe  is  that  of  Waterloo.  It  is  situated 
about  thirty  miles  from  Brussels,  and  can  be  easily  reached 
by  rail,  or  by  a  coach  which  leaves  the  city  every  morning 
for  the  battle-field,  returning  in  the  afternoon.  The  best 


THE   COACH  TO   WATERLOO. 


BELGIUM 


149 


BIRD  S-EYE   VIEW   OF   WATERLOO. 


advice  that  I  can 
give  a  tourist  who 
wishes  to  see 
Waterloo  with 
either  pleasure  or 
profit,  is  to  hire 
one  of  the  local 
guides,  in  order 
to  escape  their 
importunity,  and 
then  to  pay  him 
something  extra 
to  keep  silent. 
A  few  questions 
about  the  topog- 
raphy of  the  country  and  the  positions  of  the  armies  will 
naturally  be  asked,  and  will  receive  intelligent  replies ;  but  the 
abominable  "  story  of  the  battle "  which  ignorant  guides  nar- 
rate, with  changes  suited  to  the  nationality  of  the  visitor,  is 
exasperating.  Hard,  indeed  is  the  fate  of  the  tourist  who 

is    conducted  

over  the 
scene  of  con- 
flict with  a 
company  of 
strangers, 
whose  inap- 
propriate re- 
marks and 
vehement  ar- 
guments are 
particularly 
annoying  at 


such 


a  time. 


LA   BELLE  ALLIANCE. 


BELGIUM 


HEROES'  MOUND,  WATERLOO. 

Waterloo  is  a  place  for  reverie  and  solitude ;  and  to  behold 
it  with  a  crowd  of  uncongenial  travelers,  or  even  with  a  loqua- 
cious guide  who  glibly  states,  as  facts,  things  which  have  been 
disputed  by  the  greatest  military  students  of  the  world,  is  a 
misfortune.  My  first  visit  to  Waterloo  was  spoiled  by  just  such 
circumstances,  and  I  have  never  ceased  to  regret  it. 

The  battle-field  of  Marathon,  in  Greece,  on  the  contrary,  in 
its  sublime  and  solemn  isolation  between  the  mountains  and  the 
sea,  is  almost  an  ideal  spot  for  a  poet,  scholar,  or  historian,  and 
the  memory  of  a  day  passed  there  beside  its  "  Heroes'  Mound  " 
is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  experiences  of  my  life. 

There  is  also  a  Heroes'  Mound  at  Waterloo.  Two  hun- 
dred feet  in  height,  and  surmounted  by  a  colossal  lion,  it 
dominates  the  landscape  from  afar,  and  marks  the  centre  of 
the  battle-field.  Most  travelers  do  nothing  more  at  Waterloo 
than  climb  the  mound  and  take  a  general  view  of  the  his- 


BELGIUM  151 

toric  plain ;  but  the  ideal  way  to  see  the  place  where  was, 
at  last,  decisively  concluded  the  duel  between  Napoleon  and 
United  Europe,  is  to  drive  in  a  private  carriage  to  its  princi- 
pal points  of  interest,  and  leisurely,  and  with  appreciative 
study,  to  inspect  such  objects  as  the  farmhouse  of  La  Belle 
Alliance,  where  the  Emperor  had  his  headquarters;  the  site 
of  the  sunken  road  which  proved  the  grave  of  hundreds  of 
Napoleon's  cavalry ;  the  farm  of  La  Haye  Sainte,  taken  and 
retaken  three  times  on  that  eventful  day ;  and,  above  all,  the 
old  Chateau  of  Hougomont,  against  the  thick  stone  walls  of 
which  the  reckless  fury  of  the  French  attack  hurled  itself 
desperately  all  day  long,  only  to  break  in  vain  on  the  un- 
yielding ramparts,  like  billows  upon  a  rocky  coast. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  recount  the  thrilling  story  of  the  battle. 
It  has  been  told  in  every  language  of  the  civilized  world,  and 
many  volumes  have  been  written  in  explanation  of  its  strategy 
and  its  result.  Suffice  it  here  to  say,  the  plans  of  the  two  com- 
manders were  simple.  That  of  Wellington  was  to  hold  his 


HOIT.OMONT. 


152 


BELGIUM 


ground  until  the  Prussians  under  Blucher  should  join  him ;  that 
of  Napoleon  was  to  defeat  the  English  before  the  Prussians 
could  arrive,  and  then  to  annihilate  Blucher.  To  this  end,  he 
had  dispatched  Marshal  Grouchy,  with  thirty  thousand  men,  to 
keep  the  Prussian  army  in  check  till  he  had  finished  with  the 
English.  By  a  strange  fatality,  therefore,  the  issue  of  the  con- 
flict was  destined  to  rest  ultimately  not  with  Napoleon  and 
Wellington,  but  with  Grouchy  and  Blucher.  In  this  tremen- 
dous crisis,  the  Frenchman  failed ;  the  Prussian  succeeded. 

Just  as  it  was 
evident  that  the 
troops  of  Wel- 
lington, if  un- 
aided, were 
doomed  to  defeat, 
the  force  of  Blu- 
cher arrived  upon 
the  field.  It  was 
half-past  seven 
o'clock,  and  twi- 
light was  ap- 
proaching. The 
French  were^now 
outnumbered  by 
fifty  thousand 
men.  The  des- 
tinies of  Europe  hung  in  the  balance.  Napoleon's  fate  de- 
pended on  the  charge  of  the  Old  Guard.  Approaching  these 
companions  in  so  many  glorious  victories,  the  Emperor  uttered, 
for  the  last  time,  the  words,  "La  Garde,  En  avant!"  The 
veterans  were  commanded  by  Marshal  Ney,  the  "  Bravest  of  the 
Brave,"  who,  having  already  had  five  horses  shot  under  him, 
now  advanced  on  foot.  The  heroes  turned  a  farewell  glance 
toward  their  loved  Emperor.  Like  the  old  gladiators  of  the 


THE   CLOSE   OF   THE   BATTLE. 


BELGIUM 


153 


Colosseum,  they  might  have  cried,  "  O,  Caesar, 
we,  who  are  about  to  die,  salute  thee !  "     For 
soon,  beneath  a  deadly  cross-fire  of    shot 
and  shell,  they  seemed  to   melt  like   frost- 
work in  the  sun.     The  rest  of  the  army  gave 
way;  a  mortal  pallor  overspread 
Napoleon's    face,    and     he    at- 
tempted   to  ride  on    to    death. 
But  he  was  pushed  back  by  his 
officers  ;  and  one  of  them,  grasp- 
ing the  bridle  of  his  horse,  led 
him  at  full  gallop  from  the    first 
overwhelming    defeat    that    he  had 
ever  known.  NEV. 

"  Be  sure  and  stop  at  Ghent,"  a  friend  had  said  to  us  as  we 
were  leaving  Brussels,  "  if  you  would  see  a  genuine  Flemish 
city  of  the  olden  time."  When  we  beheld  its  picturesque  old 
gateway,  we  rejoiced  that  we  had  taken  his  advice ;  for  its 

pointed    towers,    pierced    with 
narrow    loopholes,    and   its 
gabled  roof,   rising   like 
flights  of  steps  to  the 
high  station    of    the 
sentinels,    still   fling 
their     shadows 
across  the  ancient 
moat,  just  as  they 
did     when    Ghent 
was       the       proud 
capital  of  Flanders, 
and  from  out  this  gate 
the    warlike    Ghentians 
marched  to  rout  the  Eng- 
lish army  under  Edward  I. 


THE   GATE,    GHENT. 


154 


BELGIUM 


STATUE   OF   ARTEVEI.DE. 


Especially  in- 
teresting, from  its 
historic  associa- 
tions, is  the  old 
market-place  of 
Ghent,  the  forum 
of  the  Flemish 
capital.  Here, 
homage  was  paid 
to  the  Counts  of 
Flanders  in  a 
magnificence  of 
style,  rare  at  the 
present  day  even 
to  royalty ;  and 
here,  during  the  civil  feuds,  which  were  as  desperate  in  Ghent 
as  in  mediaeval  Florence,  the  different  factions  would  assemble, 
fierce  to  avenge  some  real  or  fancied  violation  of  their  rights. 
In  one  such  con- 
test alone  fifteen 
hundred  men 
were  slain. 

The  statue  in 
the  centre  of  this 
square  is  that  of 
Jacques  Van  Ar- 
tevelde,  the  cele- 
brated Brewer 
of  Ghent,  who, 
though  of  noble 
family,  enrolled 
himself  in  the 
Guild  of  Brewers, 
that  he  might 


ST.    NICHOLAS   CHl'RCH. 


BELGIUM 


155 


thus  obtain  the  favor  of  the  lower  classes.  Rich,  eloquent,  and 
able,  he  quickly  rose  to  be  for  eight  years  the  virtual  sovereign 
of  Flanders,  putting  to  death  or  banishing  those  who  ventured 
to  oppose  him,  and  filling  all  the  offices  with  men  obedient  to  his 
will ;  yet,  near  this  square,  where,  with  uplifted  arm  he  had  so 
often  roused  the  populace  to  further  his  designs,  he  was  at  last 
assassinated  by  the  very  men  who,  while  admiring  his  genius, 
would  not  brook  his 
despotism. 

Leaving  this  his- 
toric site,  a  short 
walk  brought  us  to 
the  oldest  church  in 
Ghent,  founded  nine 
hundred  years  ago. 
Around  its  base, 
like  barnacles  upon 
a  stately  ship,  have 
gathered  several 
small  shops,  which 
should  be  cleared 
away ;  but,  in  spite 
of  these,  the  build- 
ing has  a  rugged 
grandeur  suited  to  its  history.  Its  pointed  turrets  were  already 
old  when,  in  the  time  of  the  Crusaders,  a  Flemish  Count  brought 
back  to  decorate  the  summit  of  the  neighboring  spire  a  gilded 
dragon  taken  from  the  church  of  Santa  Sophia  at  Constanti- 
nople ;  and  they  looked  grimly  down  upon  the  lurid  fires  which 
in  this  square  consumed  so  many^  victims  of  the  Duke  of  Alva, 
the  cruel  minister  of  Philip  II. 

Leaving  this  church,  we  walked  a  little  distance  to  some 
mediaeval  cloisters  of  rare  beauty.  Through  their  deserted 
walls  the  winds  of  centuries  have  blown,  but  they  retain  sufH- 


i 


ST.    BAVON    ABBEY. 


1 56 


BELGIUM 


cient  traces  of  their  noble  architecture  to  show  us  what  they 
must  have  been.  Alas !  like  many  other  historic  structures  in 
the  Netherlands,  these  cloisters  were  defaced  and  sacked  by 
Puritan  fanatics ;  for  in  those  dreadful  days  —  when  the 
Inquisition  was  making  this  fair  land  a  place  of  fiendish  tor- 
ture and  unutterable  misery,  goaded  by  years  of  persecution  and 
looking  upon  all  such  architecture  as  emblematic  of  the  power 
which  persecuted  them  —  a  multitude  of  image  breakers,  armed 
with  ropes  and  hammers,  swept  like  a  whirlwind  through  the 

realm.  The  dam- 
age done  by  these 
iconoclasts  was 
irreparable.  In 
the  cathedrals, 
statues  we  re 
hurled  from  their 
pedestals,  and 
paintings  were 
torn  from  the 
walls ;  glorious 
stained-glass  win- 
dows were  shiv- 
ered to  atoms ; 
ladders  and  ropes 
were  used  to 

reach  the  works  of  art,  and  lofty  pinnacles  and  turrets, 
apparently  inaccessible,  were  scaled  by  men  who  risked  their 
lives  to  mar  their  beautiful  decorations.  Revolting  scenes  of 
sacrilege  took  place.  Statues  of  Christ  were  thrown  down 
with  the  rest;  those  of  the  Virgin  suffered  every  insult;  the 
sacred  altars  were  defiled ;  the  consecrated  wine  was  drunk ; 
the  sacramental  bread  was  thrown  to  dogs,  and  even  the  oil 
with  which  kings  and  priests  had  been  anointed  was  used  by 
these  fanatics  to  grease  their  shoes.  In  one  night  thirty 


BELGIUM 


159 


churches  were  sacked  in  Antwerp  alone,  and  four  hundred 
were  despoiled  in  a  single  province  within  a  few  days.  Thus, 
through  a  religious  frenzy,  easily  understood,  yet  evermore  to 
be  regretted,  the  precious  products  of  centuries  of  inspiration 
and  persistent  labor  were  completely  ruined,  and  once  more,  as 
so  many  times  before,  the  world  was  rendered  poorer  by  the 
folly  and  bigotry  of  man. 

A  striking  incident  is  told  of  a  wealthy,  though  untitled, 
citizen  of  Ghent.  One  day,  the  mighty  Emperor  Charles  V., 
needing  two  mil- 
lion florins,  bor- 
rowed them  all  of 
this  worthy  man  ; 
and  the  same  day, 
in  token  of  his 
gratitude,  prom- 
ised that  he  would 
dine  with  him. 
The  flattered  mer- 
chant gave  the 
Emperor  a  most 
magnificent  re- 
past; and,  while 
they  sipped  their 
wine  at  the  des- 
sert, tore  up  the  monarch's  promissory  note  and  passed  the 
pieces  to  him  on  a  plate.  "Sire,"  he  said,  "two  million  florins 
is  a  small  sum  to  pay  for  the  honor  which  your  Majesty  has 
done  me  to-day." 

Musing  upon  the  history  of  this  Flemish  city,  once  so 
famous  for  its  wealth  and  power,  I  fancied  I  could  see  moving 
along  its  liquid  thoroughfares,  like  phantoms  of  the  past,  the 
stately  ships  from  India  and  Persia,  bringing  to  Ghent  the 
treasures  of  the  Orient.  Once  more  I  watched  march  proudly 


THE    PULPIT. 


i6o 


BELGIUM 


OLD   FLEMISH   HOUSES. 


through  the  city's 

streets  its  famous 

manufacturing 

guilds,    a    single 

one      of      which 

numbered      forty 

thousand  men.     I 

saw    its    artisans 

pass   by    in  such 

vast  crowds  that, 

when     the     bells 

were      rung      at 

morning,       noon, 

and      night,      all 

other     citizens 

were  warned  not  to  obstruct  the  living  current  sweeping  on  its 

way.     Vessels,  meantime,  were  not  allowed  to  pass  the  draw- 
bridges, which  were  kept  closed  for  the  accommodation  of  the 

moving  throng,   and  children  were  retained  indoors,  lest  the 

industrial  hosts  should 
trample  them  to  death. 
Larger  than  Paris  even 
was  this  city  in  thos.e  days, 
and  Charles  V.  had  some 
justification  for  his  famous 
pun  on  the  French  name 
of  Ghent,  when  he  said  to 
the  King  of  France,  "  I  can 
put  your  Paris  inside  of 
my  glove  "  (Je  mcttraivotre 
Paris  dans  mon  Gand\ 

Saying  farewell  to 
Ghent,  an  hour's  journey 
brought  us  to  her  former 

A    GATE,    BRUGES. 


BELGIUM 


161 


rival,  —  Bruges.  There  is  no  rivalry  between  the  cities  now. 
Ghent,  though  retaining  but  a  shadow  of  her  ancient  glory, 
is  still  comparatively  prosperous ;  but  poor  old  Bruges  shows 
little  evidence  of  life  and  enterprise.  Some  stately  buildings 
of  the  past  remain,  which  give  to  her  an  air  of  wealth  and 
dignity,  and  the  old  streets  and  market-places  are,  in  form, 
the  same  ;  but  few  boats  furrow  now  her  deep  canals,  which, 
with  the  green  scum  floating  on  their  stagnant  surfaces,  re- 
semble unused  country  roads,  half  overgrown  with  grass.  Even 
the  numerous 
bridges  of  the 
town,  which  gave 
to  her  the  Flem- 
ish title,  Bruges, 
look  lifeless  and 
deserted,  and 
most  of  the  oc- 
cupants of  the 
handsome  houses 
of  the  olden  time 
are  wealthy  mer- 
chants who  have 
retired  from  busi- 
ness, to  spend  the 
last  years  of  their 

lives  in  absolute  tranquillity.      There  seems  to  be  no  danger 
of  its  being  disturbed. 

I  could  not  see  that  any  business,  save  a  little  petty  traffic, 
was  transacted  here,  and  it  is  said  that  nearly  one-third  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Bruges  are  paupejs.  Beggars  and  guides 
annoyed  us  so  persistently  that,  in  self-defence  as  well  as  pity, 
we  finally  hired  a  "  commissionaire"  and  gave  all  our  spare 
pennies  to  the  mendicants.  I  think  we  also  saved  a  wretched 
cabman  from  committing  suicide,  by  hiring  his  dilapidated  vehi- 


AN   OLD   CANAL,    BRUGES. 


1 62 


BELGIUM 


cle  at  the  astonishing  price  of  twenty-five  cents  an  hour !     Cabs 
are,  in  fact,  so  cheap  and  slow  in  Bruges  that  I  should  have  taken 
one  from  morning  till  night,  if  I  had  only  had  plenty  of  time. 
Shaken  about  in  one  of  these  decrepit  vehicles,  driven  over 


atrocious  cobble-stone 
cheered  by  our  approv- 
having  thus  encouraged 
terecl  the  old  market- 
upon  the  famous  bel- 
is  a  majestic  structure, 
fifty  feet  in  height, 
fine  stone-carving,  and 
octagon,  whose  open- 
mands  a  noble  view, 
edifice  from  which  it 
eminent  office,  but  part 
generated  into  a  meat 
change,  indeed,  and 
them.  This  tower, 
five  hundred  years  ago, 
nent  part  in  the  event- 


pavements,  yet 
ing  consciences  for 
industry,  we  en- 
place  and  looked 
fry  of  Bruges.  It 
three  hundred  and 
richly  adorned  with 
ending  in  a  lofty 
work  balcony  com- 
A  portion  of  the 
rises  is  still  a  gov- 
of  it  has  now  de- 
market.  Times 
we  change  with 
built  more  than 
has  played  a  promi- 
ful  history  of  Bru- 


THE    BEI.FRY   OF   BRUGES. 


BELGIUM 


163 


OLD   CANAL   AND   STREET. 


ges,  and  when  its 
time-honored  chimes 
ring  out  upon  the  air, 
one  can  imagine  them 
trying  to  arouse  the 
lifeless  city  to  a  reali- 
zation of  her  former 
glory ;  reminding  her 
that  in  the  fifteenth 
century  she  was 
wealthier  than  even 
Antwerp ;  that  ships 
from  Venice,  Genoa, 
and  the  distant  East 
unloaded  here  their 

precious  cargoes  ;  that  once,  as  a  result  of  civil  war,  two  hundred 
wagons  were  kept  busy  for  a  fortnight  transporting  loads  of  gold, 
silver,  and  valuable  goods  to  the  victorious  city,  Ghent ;  that 
twenty  foreign  ministers 
lived  then  within  her 
gates ;  that  here  a  Ger- 
man King  was  held  pris- 
oner twelve  days,  despite 
the  threats  of  royal  ar- 
mies ;  and  that  the  Queen 
of  France,  on  seeing  the 
splendid  dresses  of  the 
ladies  of  Bruges,  ex- 
claimed, "  I  thought  that 
I  alone  was  Queen,  but 
here  are  hundreds  whose 


costumes 
Moreover, 
people    of 


rival  mine." 
it  was  the 
Bruges  who 


THE   C1TV    HALL,  .BRUGES. 


164 


BELGIUM 


ANTWERP   HARBOR. 


dared  tc  say  to 
the  ambassador 
of  France,  "  Go 
tell  your  King 
that  he  is  per- 
jured, that  we 
have  elected  a 
new  sovereign, 
and  that  it  is  our 
privilege,  not  his, 
to  choose  our 
masters." 

It  is  difficult 
to  realize  the  pros- 
perity which  the 
Netherlands  en- 
joyed three  hun- 
dred years  ago ;  but  they  supplied  Charles  V.  with  nearly  one-half 
of  his  royal  income  :  four  times  as  much  as  was  furnished  by 
Spain,  or  by  those  Eldorados  of  the  New  World,  —  Mexico  and 
Peru.  The  Low  Countries  then  contained  more  than  two  hundred 
walled  cities,  all  of  which  were  in  a  flourishing  condition.  In  all 
thes^  towns  belfries  were  constructed,  fully  as  much  for  secujar^as 
for  sacred  purposes.  In  times  of  peace,  it  is  true,  they  musically 
chimed  the  passing  hours,  and  called  the  worshiper  to  prayer; 
but  they  were  also  deep-voiced  sentinels,  whose  brazen  clangor 
summoned  citizens  to  arms,  and  brought  them  at  a  moment's 
notice,  rushing  from  the  remotest  lanes,  into  the  central  square. 
The  name,  Antwerp,  is  said  to  be  derived  from  Flemish 
words  which  signify,  "  On  the  Wharf."  If  so,  the  title  is 
appropriate,  for  it  is  on  the  wharves  of  Antwerp  that  the  pros- 
perity of  the  city  is  best  understood.  It  is  a  town  of  great 
activity,  and  its  superb  quays  —  built  by  Napoleon  I.,  when 
Antwerp  formed  a  prominent  part  of  his  colossal  empire — are 


BELGIUM 


165 


crowded  now  with  ships  and  steamers,  and  serve  as  a  reminder 
of  Bonaparte's  gigantic  plans  and  indefatigable  industry.  Yet, 
busy  as  Antwerp  is  to-day,  it  gives  us  but  a  hint  of  what  its  com- 
merce was  in  the  sixteenth  century.  Then  twenty-five  hundred 
ships  could  find  shelter  in  its  harbor,  and  it  was  no  uncommon 
occurrence  for  five  hundred  arrivals  and  departures  to  be  regis- 
tered in  a  single  day.  Two  thousand  loaded  wagons,  also,  from 
the  neighboring  provinces  passed  daily  through  the  city's 
gates ;  and  in  addition  to  Antwerp's  own  commercial  houses, 
more  than  a  thousand  foreign  firms  contended  here  in  friendly 
rivalry.  No  city  in  all  Christendom  could  equal  Antwerp  then 
in  wealth  and  splendor.  Her  merchants  lived  in  almost  regal 
luxury ;  within  her  massive  warehouses  were  precious  goods 
from  every  land ;  and  her  superb  cathedral,  palaces,  and  public 
buildings,  enriched  with  noble  works  of  art,  made  her  the 
marvel  of  the  world. 

But,  alas !  when  did  so  great  a  treasure  ever  long  escape  the 
clutch  of  the  despoiler?  The  Spaniards  coveted  this  goodly 
city,  and  laid 
upon  it  the  same 
cruel  hand  that 
proved  a  curse  to 
all  their  colonies 
in  the  New 
World.  In  the 
capture  of  Ant- 
werp by  the 
Spanish  army 
almost  as  many 
Jiving  beings 
were  destroyed  as 
there  had  been 
statues  ruined  in 
the  memorable 


THE   HOUSE  OF    RUBENS. 


i66 


BELGIUM 


THE  INTERIOR  OF  THE  BOURSE. 


image  breaking  of  ten  years  before.  The  annals  of  the  Neth- 
erlands are  illustrated  by  some  of  the  most  horrible  pictures 
known  to  history ;  and  one  of  the  most  revolting  is  that  of 
the  sack  of  Antwerp  by  the  Spaniards.  In  three  days,  fully 
eight  thousand  men,  women,  and  children  were  massacred, 
burned,  or  drowned,  and  bodies  lay  by  hundreds  in  the  streets. 
The  Spanish  soldiers,  drunk  with  wine  and  blood,  had  cast  off 
even  the  semblance  of  humanity,  and  played  the  part  of  fiends. 
The  splendid  city  was  well-nigh  destroyed.  Six  million  dollars' 
worth  of  property  was  burned,  and  five  hundred  marble  resi- 
dences were  reduced  to  blackened  ruins.  The  object  of  these 
terrible  atrocities  was  gold,  and  to  obtain  it  almost  inconceivable 
cruelties  were  committed.  To  cite  one  out  of  many  instances : 
a  wedding  feast  was  being  celebrated  when  the  Spaniards 
gained  possession  of  the  city.  A  mob  of  brutal  soldiers  rushed 
within  the  house,  demanding  gold  and  jewels.  Not  satisfied 
with  what  they  found,  they  struck  the  bridegroom  dead.  The 


BELGIUM 


167 


bride  fell,  shrieking,  into  her  mother's  arms,  whence  she  was 
torn  by  the  relentless  ruffians,  who  immediately  put  the  mother  to 
death.  The  bride,  who  was  of  remarkable  beauty,  was  then  carried 
off.  Maddened  by  this  last  outrage,  her  father  tried  to  save  her, 
and  was  killed.  That  night  a  woman,  scantily  clothed  and  trem- 
bling with  fear,  was  found  wandering  through  the  streets  among 
the  heaps  of  dead  and  dying,  looking  for  her  husband  and  father. 
She  was  completely  crazed;  and  the  fair  bride  of  a  few  hours 
bsfore  was  finally  put  out  ^  of  her  misery  by  a  mob  of  soldiers  ! 


, 

THE    NATIONAL   BANK    AND    LEOPOLD   MONUMENT,    ANTWERP. 


1 68 


BELGIUM 


VAN    DVCK. 


Before  the  bar  of  History 
no  nation  has  committed  such 
atrocious  crimes,  or  brought 
such  evil  upon  millions  of  the 
world's  inhabitants  as  Spain. 
Her  terrible  expulsion  of  the 
gifted  Moors  and  wealthy 
Jews  was  one  of  the  most 
deadly  blows  ever  given  to 
learning,  art,  and  commerce, 
aside  from  its  appalling  cru- 
elty and  bigotry ;  the  record 
of  her  conquests  and  tyran- 
nical government  in  the  New 
World  has  left  on  every  foot 
of  soil  that  she  occupied  a  sickening  trail  of  blood ;  and,  while 
she  ruled  the  Netherlands,  she  made  the  lives  of  its  inhabitants 
a  hell  c:i  earth,  by  pillaging  cities,  slaughtering,  torturing,  and 
burning  thousands  of  innocent  men,  women,  and  children,  and 
lighting  every  market-place  with  the  fires  of  the  Inquisition. 
In  the  whole  history  of  mankind  there  is  no  sadder  and  more 
awful  picture  than  that  of  the  decline  and  wretchedness  of  this 
superbly  prosperous  and  artistic  country  under  the  rule,  of 
Spain.  Thousands  abandoned  the  Netherlands  and  fled  to 
England,  and  thousands  who  remained  were  put  to  death  by 
fire  and  sword.  In  1568  Antwerp  had  a  population  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  thousand.  Twenty  years  later  its 
inhabitants  numbered  only  fifty-five  thousand.  Since  then, 
till  recently,  a  series  of  misfortunes,  including  wars,  political 
vicissitudes,  revolutions,  and  unfortunate  maritime  decrees, 
has  kept  it  from  recovering  its  former  prosperity.  At 
present,  however,  it  is  rapidly  regaining  its  lost  fortunes,  and 
if  it  has  half  a  century  more  of  peace,  under  as  good  a 
government  as  that  of  Leopold  II.,  it  will  take  long  strides 


BELGIUiM 


169 
that  of  the 


toward  regaining  the  position  it  once  occupied, 
leading  maritime  city. 

Antwerp's   cathedral    spire  has  held  the  admiration  of  the 
world  for  centuries,  and  well  deserves  the  eulogy  of  Napoleon, 


170 


BELGIUM 


who  compared  it  to  a  piece  of  Mechlin  lace.  On  account  of  the 
flatness  of  the  surrounding  country,  it  is  visible  at  a  great  dis- 
tance, long  before  the  rest  of  the  town  is  seen,  and  the  impres- 
sion which  it  makes  on  the  approaching  tourist,  who,  as  he  sails 
along  the  winding  Schelde,  watches  this  solitary  shaft  of  stone 
embroidery  cutting  its  slender  silhouette  upon  the  sky,  will  not 
be  easily  forgotten.  Its  airy  pinnacles  contain  about  one  hun- 
dred bells — the  smallest  sixteen  inches  in  circumference,  the 
largest  weighing  eight  tons  —  and  from  these  there  floats  out 
upon  the  air  a  combination  of  melodious  sounds  scarcely  sur- 
passed, I  think,  in  Europe.  It  is  hard  to  realize  that  this  grace- 
ful tower  was  standing,  in  peaceful  beauty,  through  all  the 
dreadful  scenes  of  carnage  which  have  stained  the  history  of 
Antwerp,  and  that  its  chimes  rang  out  as  sweetly  then  as  now, 
above  the  shouts  of  triumph  and  the  moans  of  anguish  in  the 
streets  below.  Aside  from  its  bell-tower,  however,  the  cathe- 

t s I     dral   of   Antwerp 

is  disappointing. 
Not  only  has  the 
space  surround- 
ing it  been  in- 
vaded by  a  num- 
ber of  jmean 
buildings,  but  the 
effect  of  the  in- 
terior is  sadly 
marred  by  the 
presence  of 
whitewashed 
walls  and  col- 
umns. Still,  as 
the  spire  redeems 
the  exterior,  so 
the  interior  of 


THE    STATUE    OF    RUBENS. 


BELGIUM 


171 


THE  "ELEVATION  OF  THE  CROSS"  (RUBENS). 

the  church  is  atoned  for,  and  even  endeared  to  lovers  of  art, 
by  the  two  masterpieces  of  Rubens  which  hang  on  either  side 
of  the  high  altar  :  the  "  Elevation  of  the  Cross,"  and  the  "  De- 
scent from  the  Cross." 

We    climbed    to    the    lofty    belfry    of    the    cathedral,    and 
looked  down  on  the  city  and  the  adjoining  plain;  and,  as  we 


172 


BELGIUM 


watched  the  river  Schelde  winding  through  cultivated  fields, 
like  a  long  thread  of  silver  woven  in  a  figured  carpet,  we 
were  reminded  of  a  striking  proof  of  bravery  connected  with 
this  peaceful  stream.  In  1831,  during  the  war  between  the 
Dutch  and  Belgians,  a  Holland  gunboat  was  driven  ashore 
here  in  a  heavy  gale.  The  Belgian  men-of-war  at  once  sur- 
rounded it,  and  summoned  its  commander  to  surrender.  See- 
ing that  further  opposition  was  impossible,  and  yet  determined 
never  to  give  up  what  had  been  entrusted  to  his  care,  the 
captain  rushed  to  the  powder  magazine,  threw  into  it  a  lighted 
match,  and,  in  a  moment  more,  a  terrible  explosion  wrecked 
the  ship  and  killed  a  hundred  of  the  advancing  enemy. 
Thus  did  this  officer,  who  in  childhood  had  been  adopted  by 
the  state,  and  had  received  his  education  at  government 
expense,  nobly  repay  the  debt  he  owed  his  country ;  and,  in 
her  turn,  Holland  showed  her  gratitude  by  rearing  a  monu- 
ment to  his  memory,  and  ordering  that  one  vessel  in 
her  navy  should  —--^^  always  bear 

his      honored        ^-  ^\        name. 


ANTWERP   AND   THE    SCHELDE. 


HOLLAND 


I  SHALL  never  forget  my  first  experience  in  Holland. 
How  eagerly  and  laughingly  we  gazed  about  us  at  our 
new  surroundings.  Was  it,  then,  possible  that  land 
could  be  as  flat  as  this  ?  At  times,  I  fancied  it  a  smooth 
green  carpet,  dotted  here  and  there  with  windmills  which 
looked  like  pegs  designed  to  keep  tapestry  in  place ;  at  other 
times,  the  country  seemed  like  a  gigantic  raft,  which  nothing 
but  the  constant  efforts  of  its  mariners  could  keep  afloat.  In 
view  of  this  unin- 
terrupted area  of 
level  territory, 
who  would  be 
much  surprised  if 
the  Dutch  gov- 
ernment should 
stamp  upon  its 
coins  the  motto 
recently  chosen 
by  a  youthful 
bride  to  orna- 
ment her  suite 
of  rooms,  "  God 
bless  our  flat  "  ? 
Rising  from  such 


KAH.WAY   AND    CANAL. 


1 76 


HOLLAND 


HOLLAND   COWS. 


a  level  founda- 
tion, buildings  in 
Holland  appear 
tall  and  windmills 
monstrous.  Even 
the  cows  look 
larger  than  those 
of  other  lands, 
and,  quite  in  har- 
mony with  their 
surroundings," 
have  flat  horns. 
They  are  sleek, 
handsome  crea- 
tures, such  as  the 
Flemish  painters  have  portrayed  so  often,  and  stand  in  groups 
upon  the  velvet  turf,  whose  verdant  surface  has  a  glow  as  soft 
as  that  of  porcelain.  These  herds  of  happy  cattle  were  as 
sedate  as  their 
owners,  and  made 
no  effort  to  run 
away  when  we 
approached,  but 
merely  gazed  in 
large-eyed  won- 
der at  our  passing 
train. 

Holland  is 
not  usually  con- 
sidered a  beauti- 
ful country,  but 
it  possesses  one 
peculiar  charm  of 
scenery  that  I 


A    LOVELY   LANDSCAPE. 


HOLLAND 


177 


have  never  seen  surpassed.  The  flatness  and  extent  of  its 
broad,  green  meadows  by  the  sea  permit  unusually  long  per- 
spectives, under  the  lowering  clouds,  to  the  very  verge  of  the 
horizon,  much  as  the  traveler  finds  them  on  the  ocean.  At 
such  a  time,  the  sight  of  cattle,  trees,  and  windmills  etched 
boldly  on  the  band  of  light  which  intervenes  between  the 
clouds  and  the  horizon  line  is  wonderfully  effective ;  and  I 
have  rarely  seen  in  any  landscape  more  fascinating  pictures 
than  Holland  can  reveal  upon  a  showery  afternoon,  when,  as 
the  clouds  drift  by,  the  windmills,  cows,  and  meadows  dissolve 
into  a  silvery  mist,  and,  a  few  minutes  later,  reappear  through 
a  pale,  shimmering  veil  of  gray  and  gold.  No  land  has  ever 
been  more  faithfully  portrayed  in  art  than  Holland,  and  many 
times  a  day  the  traveler  in  the  Netherlands  sees  duplicates  of 
scenes  which  the  old  Dutch  painters  have  immortalized. 

The  two  most  characteristic  features 
-•*  *  *"'   *-"  -           of  Holland  are  its  windmills  and  canals. 


TIRELESS   LABORERS. 


1 78 


HOLLAND 


The  former  seem  innumerable.  In  fact,  the  country  often  ap- 
pears to  be  alive  with  these  revolving  monsters,  which,  when  in 
motion,  look  like  giants  turning  handsprings  on  the  horizon ;  and, 
when  at  rest,  resemble  lighthouses  above  the  sea.  But  "  rest  " 
for  these  industrious  slaves  is  a  rare  occurrence.  Employed  for 
almost  every  kind  of  labor,  they  grind  corn,  saw  wood,  pulverize 
rock,  manufacture  paper,  and  cut  tobacco  into  snuff ;  while  their 
most  important  duty  is  to  pump  out  of  the  marshes  into  the  canals 

the  water  which 
would  otherwise 
submerge  the 
land.  Think  of 
an  army  of  ten 
thousand  of  these 
tireless  automata 
working  continu- 
ally, day  and 
night,  to  raise  the 
liquid  of  the  low- 
lands high  enough 
to  let  it  find  an 
exit  to  the  sea! 
The  largest  wind- 
mills, it  is  said, 

will,  in  a  fair  breeze,  lift  ten  thousand  gallons  of  water  per 
minute  to  the  height  of  four  feet. 

Who  can  refuse  unstinted  admiration  to  the  persevering 
Hollanders,  who  have  thus  yoked  the  inconstant  wind  and 
forced  it  not  only  to  work  for  them,  but  also  to  contend  with 
their  great  enemy,  water  ?  It  is  true,  the  windmills  often  look 
rebellious,  and  fling  their  long  arms  madly  round  and  round,  as 
if  in  frantic  protest  at  their  slavery;  but,  nevertheless,  they 
faithfully  perform  their  allotted  tasks,  and  are  a  practical  illus- 
tration of  the  rough  but  wholesome  words  of  Emerson  :  "  Bor- 


A   DUTCH   WATERWAY. 


HOLLAND  WOMEN. 


HOLLAND 


181 


A    BIT   OF   HOLLAND. 


row  the  might  of  the 
elements.  Hitch  your 
wagon  to  a  star,  and 
see  the  chores  done 
by  the  gods  them- 
selves." A  Holland- 
er's wealth  is  often  es- 
timated, not  by  bonds 
and  mortgages,  but  by 
windmills.  "How  rich 
is  such  a  man  ? "  I  once 
asked.  "Ten  or  twelve 
windmills,"  was  the 
answer. 

The  climax  of  Dutch  ingenuity  has  been  reached,  how- 
ever, in  compelling  the  ocean  —  their  natural  enemy,  which 
threatens  constantly  to  overwhelm  them  —  to  actually  aid  them 
in  repelling  human  foes ;  for,  by  an  intricate  system  of  locks 
and  sluices,  they  can  inundate  certain  sections  of  the  country, 

and  either  drown 
or  drive  away  in- 
vaders. Small, 
therefore,  though 
their  army  be,  the 
Hollanders  have 
a  natural  ally  that 
even  the  best- 
trained  European 
soldiers  cannot 
conquer ;  and  the 
brave  Dutch  may 
well  exclaim  to 
any  mightier  na- 
A  QUAINT  STREET.  tion  which  shall 


182 


HOLLAND 


try  to  rob  them  of  their  independence,  "  One,  with  God,  is  a 
majority." 

So  profoundly  uneventful    seems    Dutch   existence,  that  I 
should  think  physicians  would  prescribe  a  residence  in  sleepy 

Holland  as  a  cure  for  nervous 
prostration.  In  winter,  how- 
ever, life  here  must  have 
some  excitement.  With- 
out much  snow,  yet 
with  a  temperature 
often  below  the 
freezing-point,  Hol- 
land is  the  paradise 
of  skaters  ;  and  on 
the  crystal  paths 
which  then  bind  all 
departments  of  the 
realm  together  as 
with  silver  cords, 
men,  women,  and 
children  spend  de- 
lightful hours,  having  practically  no  limit  to  their  wanderings  ; 
since  they  are  able,  if  they  choose,  to  glide  for  miles  along  £he,se 
frozen  highways,  and  visit  in  a  short  time,  and  with  no  cost  of 
transportation,  numerous  towns  and  villages.  Thus  people  often 
skate  from  Rotterdam  to  the  Hague,  and  return  the  same  day  ;  in 
all,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles.  It  is  a  common  thing  for  boys  and 
girls  to  skate  to  school,  and  even  for  Dutch  ladies  to  make  use 
of  skates  to  do  their  marketing.  Cities,  too,  institute  ice  carni- 
vals, and  invite  their  neighbors  to  join  them  in  skating  festivals. 
The  lower  classes  in  Holland  have  an  advantage  in  dress 
over  their  superiors,  when  skating  ;  for  their  baggy  trousers 
serve  as  sails,  and  when  a  plethoric  Dutchman  puts  his  hands 
in  his  pockets  and  expands  his  nether  garments,  so  as  to  catch 


HOLLAND    IN    WINTER. 


HOLLAND 


183 


the  breeze,  he  rapidly  leaves  behind  him  those  who  are  clad  in 
the  conventional  style.  It  should,  however,  be  remembered 
that  these  canals,  when  frozen,  are  not  merely  avenues  of  pleas- 
ure, but  are  also  used  as  thoroughfares  of  transportation.  Hence 
skaters  on  them  frequently  encounter  sledges,  containing  arti- 
cles which  would  in  summer  be  conveyed  by  boats. 

Delighted  with  the  oddity  and  beauty  of  Holland  scenery, 
we  saw  at  last  from  our  car  window  the  city  of  Rotterdam. 
This  famous  centre  of  Dutch  commerce,  fourteen  miles  from 
the  North  Sea,  lies  at  the  union  of  two  rivers,  one  of  which 
is  called  Rotter,  and  with  the  great  dike,  erected  on  its  banks, 
gives  to  the  town  the  name  of  Rotter-dam.  This  is  a  clew  by 
which  to  comprehend  all  similar  titles.  Thus,  Amster-dam 
signifies  the  dam  upon  the  Amstel ;  and  the  names  Schiedam, 
Zaandam,  Edam,  Durgedam,  Volendam,  and  all  the  other 
"  dams  "  refer  to  dikes  in  their  vicinity. 


THE    KAT1.ROAD   BRIDGE,    ROTTERDAM. 


1 84 


HOLLAND 


On  my  first  walk 
in  Rotterdam,  I  was 
bewildered  by  its  mul- 
titude  of  bridges. 
From  almost  any 
halting-place  I  could 
count  eight  or  ten ; 
and,  as  most  of  them 
were  drawbridges, 
they  rose  and  fell  like 
parts  of  an  immense 
machine.  Another 
feature  of  the  town 


-DRAWBRIDGES,    ROTTERDAM. 

sign  which  I  observed  quite  frequently  above  the  doors  of 
shops,  "Fire  and  Water  to  sell."  If  it  had  read  simply  "Fire- 
water," I  might  have  concluded  that  Holland  gin  could  there 
be  bought ;  but 
"Fire  and  Water" 
puzzled  me,  until 
I  learned  that  a 
regular  trade  is 
carried  on  here  of 
selling  to  the  poor 
hot  peat  and  boil- 
ing water,  with 
which  to  cook 
their  frugal 
meals.  Many 
boats  are  em- 
ployed in  bring- 
ing water  to  the 
city  for  sale. 


A   CANAL   IN    ROTTERDAM. 


HOLLAND 


187 


For,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  with  a  situation  where  land 
and  ocean  struggle  for  supremacy,  Rotterdam,  as  well  as  al- 
most all  the  other  Dutch  cities,  is  in  the  condition  of  Cole- 
ridge's Ancient  Mariner,  with  "  Water,  water  everywhere,  nor 
any  drop  to  drink."  I  refer,  however,  to  good  drops.  There 
are,  of  course,  stale,  insipid,  and  malodorous  drops  ;  but  pure, 
sweet,  wholesome  water,  the  best  gift  of  God,  is  not  easily 
found  in  the  Low  Countries.  I  was  not  much  surprised,  there- 
fore, to  see  two  men  propelling  through  the  various  canals 
a  barge  contain- 
ing casks  of  drink- 
ing water,  which 
they  announced 
by  cries  resem- 
bling those  of  our 
itinerant  venders 
of  oranges  and 
strawberries. 
People  who  have 
no  cisterns  buy  it 
by  the  gallon ;  the 
price,  of  course, 
varying  in  times 
of  drought,  or  in 
midwinter  when 

the  canals  are  frozen.  It  is  not  strange,  then,  that  not  far  from 
Rotterdam  is  a  thriving  town,  in  which  three  hundred  distilleries 
produce  the  finest  gin  the  world  affords.  Personally  speaking, 
of  all  liquors,  gin  is  the  least  attractive  to  my  taste ;  but,  as  a 
choice  of  evils,  if  I  had  for  any  length  of  time  to  imbibe  the 
natural  water  of  Rotterdam,  I  certainly  should  be  tempted  to 
disguise  its  taste  with  what  the  Dutch  call  schnapps. 

Among   other    Dutch   peculiarities,    I   noticed   that    almost 
every  man  in  Rotterdam   had  a  cigar  or  pipe  in   his  mouth. 


WATER    BARGES. 


i88 


HOLLAND 


The  Hollanders  are  inveterate  smokers.  The  boatmen,  it  is. 
said,  measure  distances  by  smoke  and  reckon,  not  so  many 
miles  from  place  to  place,  but  so  many  pipes.  Some  Dutch- 
men, it  is  alleged,  go  to  sleep  at  night  with  their  pipes  between 
their  lips,  so  that  they  may  find  them  there  the  first  thing  in 
the  morning,  and  light  them  before  rising  to  the  duties  and 
trials  of  another  day.  Tobacco  smoke  is,  therefore,  called 
their  second  breath,  and  a  cigar  the  sixth  finger  of  their  hands. 

This  habit,  combined  with  the  peculiar 
climate,  makes  them  the  calmest, 
most  phlegmatic  people  upon 
earth.  Smoking  in  Amer- 
ica's dry  atmosphere  ex- 
cites and  irritates ;  but 
among  the  Dutch  canals 
it  drugs  and  stupefies. 
In  one  of  the  streets 
of  Rotterdam,  I  was 
shown  the  home  of  the 
greatest  smoker  that  the 
world  has  known.  Mein- 
heer  Van  Klaes,  as  he  was 
called,  consumed,  on  Jhe 
average,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  grams  of  tobacco 
every  day,  yet  lived  till  he  was  ninety-eight  years  old.  His  last 
will  and  testament  was  extraordinary.  After  bequeathing  mobt 
of  his  possessions  to  his  relatives,  he  thus  directed  how  he 
should  be  buried  :  "  I  wish  that  all  my  friends  who  are  smokers 
shall  be  specially  invited  to  my  funeral.  Each  of  them  shall 
receive  a  package  of  tobacco  and  two  pipes,  and  they  are 
requested  to  smoke  uninterruptedly  during  the  funeral  cere- 
monies. My  body  shall  be  enclosed  in  a  coffin  lined  with 
the  wood  of  my  old  cigar  boxes.  Beside  me  in  the  casket 


A   DUTCH   FLOWER   MARKET. 


HOLLAND 


189 


shall  be  laid  my 
favorite  meerschaum, 
a  box  of  matches, 
and  a  package  of  to- 
bacco. When  my 
body  is  lowered  into 
the  grave,  every  per- 
son present  is  re- 
quested to  pass  by 
and  cast  upon  it  the 
ashes  from  his  pipe." 
These  touching  re- 
quests, it  is  said,  were 
faithfully  complied 
with.  His  friends 
attended  in  prodigious 
was  so  dense  that  a 


A  CHARACTERISTIC    SCENE,    ROTTERDAM. 

numbers  ;  and,  at  the  funeral,  the  smoke 
horn  had  to  be  blown  to  enable  the 
mourners  to  find  the  door. 

From    this    city    of    the 
champion   smoker,   we 
journeyed  to  the  still 
more       interesting 
Dutch     metropo- 
lis,   Amsterdam. 
This    has    been 
often  called  the 
"Venice   of    the 
North  "  ;  but  the 
title    is    somewhat 
of  a  misnomer.     It 
is  true,  there  is  a  cer- 
tain general  resemblance 
between  the  cities,  from  the 
fact  that  Amsterdam  is  founded 


A   COMMERCIAL   CENTRE. 


190 


HOLLAND 


upon  ninety  islands,  furrowed  by  miles  of  liquid  streets,  spanned 
by  about  three  hundred  bridges ;  moreover,  the  sea  is  in  her 
thoroughfares  and  laves  the  doorsteps  of  her  shops  and  houses ; 
but  there  all  likeness  between  Amsterdam  and  its  Italian  rival 
ends.  While  the  Dutch  city  calls  forth  admiration  and  respect, 
the  Adriatic  Queen  inspires  a  romantic  sentiment  akin  to  love. 
Venice  is  golden;  Amsterdam  is  gray.  The  City  of  the  Doges 


PANORAMA   OF   AMSTERDAM. 


is  poetical ;  that  of  the  Dutch  Burghers  is  prosaic.  The  south- 
ern city  is  voluptuous  and  tender,  mysterious  with  her  memories 
of  splendor  and  decay.  The  city  of  the  North  is  cold  and 
practical,  with  a  complacent  air  of  solid  worth  and  unimpeach- 
able respectability. 

The  contrast  between  the  cities  is,  perhaps,  best  shown  by 
the  conveyances  peculiar  to  each  place.  In  Venice  they  are 
those  dusky  spirits  of  the  canals,  —  the  slender,  graceful  gon- 


HOLLAND 


193 


dolas.  In  Amster- 
dam they  are  the 
heavy  boats  of  traffic. 
The  future  of  the 
cities,  also,  will  be 
entirely  different. 
Venice  is  dying  like  a 
gorgeous  sunset ;  but 
Amsterdam,  the  rug- 
ged offspring  of  the 
northern  sea,  is,  for 
its  size,  one  of  the 
wealthiest  cities  in  the 
world ;  its  bankers 
hold  the  securities  of 
every  nation,  and  on  its 
quarters  of  the  globe. 
Many  of  the  barges 


A   SIDE   STREET  IN    AMSTEKUA 


broad   canals   float  vessels  from   all 

in  Amsterdam  form  the  abodes  of 
people  who  have 
no  other  homes. 
Among  a  certain 
class  of  Holland- 
ers, when  a 
young  man  has 
saved  or  bor- 
rowed money 
enough  he  buys 
a  huge,  broad- 
shouldered  boat; 
and,  like  the 
Patriarch  Noah, 
leads  into  it  not 
only  his  family, 
but  also  all  the 


THE   SHIPPING,    AMSTERDAM. 


194 


HOLLAND 


animals  of  which  he  is  possessed,  including  poultry,  hogs, 
and  even  cows.  Thenceforth  he  is  independent ;  and,  as 
the  master  of  a  floating  house,  stable,  farmyard,  and  ex- 
press cart  all  in  one,  and  never  absent  from  his  family,  he 
transports  loads  of  merchandise  from  town  to  town,  and  even 
sells  a  few  superfluous  eggs,  or  a  little  milk.  What  is  most 
amusing  is  the  way  in  which  such  an  amphibious  farmer, 
having  moored  his  boat,  takes  his  wares  from  house  to  house ; 

for  he  may  be 
frequently  ob- 
served standing 
without  a  blush 
of  shame  beside 
the  only  vehicle 
I  ever  saw,  that 
could  be  prop- 
erly called  a  dog- 
cart! How  of  ten 
on  my  walks  in 
Holland  I  have 
met  peasants 
tramping  along 
in  whitewashed 
wooden  shoes, 
beside  a  muzzled 

A    i ' .    n_n    r  AAIIL.V  . 

dog  which  some- 
times staggered,  and  frequently  lay  down  from  sheer  exhaust- 
ion !  It  makes  no  difference  what  their  size  or  breed  may  be, 
all  dogs  are  forced  to  labor  here  unmercifully.  My  pity  for  them 
may  be  owing  to  the  fact  that  in  America  dogs  are  regarded 
merely  as  pets;  but  I  confess  that  I  always  felt,  on  observing 
Holland  dogs  compelled  to  draw  heavy  loads,  much  as  I  do  at 
seeing  children  kept  from  play  and  made  to  labor  in  factories. 
Moreover,  the  work  of  Dutch  dogs  does  not  end,  when  the  mer- 


STATUE   OF   REMBRANDT,   AMSTERDAM. 


HOLLAND 


197 


CANINE   USEFULNESS. 


chandise  is  sold;  for,  when  the 
chance  is  offered  him,  the 
driver  seats  himself  in 
the  cart,  which  fre- 
quently is  heavy 
enough  for  a  small 
pony,  and  makes  his 
wretched  steeds  draw 
him  home.  It  really 
exasperated  me  to 
see  this  treatment  of 
the  canine  race  in  Hol- 
land. But  the  dogs  are 
cheap,  and  the  men  are 
either  lazy  or  hard-hearted ;  hence,  so  long  as  no  society^  exists 
there  to  prevent  it,  man's  most  devoted  friend  and  trusty  com- 
rade will  probably  be  compelled  to  lead  a  worse  existence  than 
is  indicated  by  our  expression,  "A  dog's  life!  " 

Sometimes,  however,   Hans    does   not   own    a   dog.     What 
then  ?     Does  he  assume  the  load  himself  ?     O,  no !     He  puts 

it  on  his  wife.     "  Gretchen,"  he 
says,    "  bring    me    my    pipe, 
like  a  good  hausfrau,  and 
I  will  help  you  get  the 
yoke  upon  your  shoul- 
ders." Then,  while  he 
calmly  sits  upon  the 
deck,  a   halo  of   to- 
bacco   smoke    about 
his  head,  his    patient 
spouse    goes    on    her 
way,  like  the  mere 
beast    of    burden 
that     she     is.       I 


DOG    DAYS. 


198 


HOLLAND 


GOING  TO    MARKET. 


wonder  if  she  ever  asks  the  question,  "  Is 
marriage  a  failure  ? "  Poor  creature  !  We 
may  laugh  at  her  odd  dress,  her  hat  which 
looks  like  a  wash  basin  inverted,  and  the  huge 
bows  of  stiff,  black  cloth  which  stand  out 

s 

from  her  head  like  a  bat's  wings ;  but,  after 
all,  hers  is  a  sad  fate,  and  will  continue 
to  be  till  the  Holland  peasant  rises  to  some 
sense  of  chivalry.  It  must  be  confessed, 
also,  that  Dutch  husbands,  in  even  the 
middle  and  upper  classes  of  society,  do 
not  show  excessive  gallantry  to  their  wives. 
I  shall  not  soon  forget  a  conversation  I 
once  had  with  my  landlady  in  Amsterdam. 
Amazed,  apparently,  at  my  expressions  of 
sympathy  for  Holland  dogs  and  peasant 
women,  she  said  to  me  :  "  I  am  going  to 
tell  you  something  which  I  know  will 
please  you,  and  which  is  really  true. 
Some  years  ago,  an  American  gentle- 
man and  his  wife  were  boarding  with 
me.  The  lady  was  recovering  from  an 
illness,  and  one  day  her  husband 

wished  her  to  take  a  drive.     Now,  what  "do 
you   think   he  did?      Why,    when   the 
horses  were  at  the  door,  he  took  his 
wife  up  in  his  arms,  carried  her  down- 
stairs, and  put  her  into  the  carriage. 
Nor   was    that   all.     When  they    re- 
turned,   he    took    her    in    his    arms 
again      and      carried      her     upstairs. 
There !     Did  you    ever   hear   of   such 
a   thing   as   that  ?      Was    not   the   man 


HEAVILY    LOADED. 


A   HOLLAND   HEADDRESS. 


a  saint  ? " 


HOLLAND 


199 


"  A  saint ! "  I  answered,  "  not  at  all,  he  was  only  an 
American." 

The  little  houses  in  the  vicinity  of  Amsterdam  are  thor- 
oughly characteristic  of  Holland.  Their  sharply  pointed  roofs 
of  bright  red  tiles,  their  neatly  painted  walls  and  blinds,  a  mon- 
strous windmill  on  one  side,  and  panting  dogs  on  the  other,  — 
these  are  features  of  Dutch  scenery  which  multiply  them- 
selves here  almost  endlessly.  Stopping  occasionally  at  one  of 
these  houses 
to  inquire  my 
way,  I  found 
the  floors  and 
tables  scoured 
and  polished, 
as  if  they  had 
been  sandpa- 
pered ;  the  pots 
and  pans  glis- 
tened as  if  made 
of  gold  and  sil- 
ver ;  and  in  one 
room  I  noticed 
that  all  the 
chairs  were 
tipped  forward, 
with  their  hind 

feet  on  the  top  edge  of  the  baseboard,  so  that  the  dust 
should  not  settle  upon  the  seats  in  the  short  interval  that 
could  elapse  between  one  dusting  and  another. 

Even  in  the  better  streets  of  Amsterdam,  among  the  resi- 
dences of  its  wealthy  citizens,  there  is  not  much  display  of 
luxury.  The  houses  are  quite  plain,  though  built  of  brick,  and 
have  stone  trimmings  at  the  doors  and  windows;  a  flight 
of  steps  leads  sideways  up  to  the  front  door,  so  as  to  take  as 


A  COUNTRY   SCENE. 


200 


HOLLAND 


little  space  as  possible  on  the  sidewalk;  and  the  windows,  of 
huge  plate  glass,  are  exquisitely  polished.  Outside  of  them 
are  frequently  mirrors,  placed  at  such  an  angle  as  to  reflect 
the  scene  below;  for  Hollanders  lead  such  quiet  lives  that  they 
are  naturally  curious  to  know  all  that  goes  on  about  them. 
The  older  houses  with  their  pointed  gables  have,  usually,  above 
the  attic  window  a  beam  and  pulley  hanging  over  the  street. 
I  jestingly  called  these  at  first  a  kind  of  gallows,  on  which  the 

Dutch  of  former 
times  were  wont 
to  hang  such 
thoughtless  mis- 
creants as  dared 
intrude  upon 
their  polished 
floors  with  mud- 
dy feet.  They 
were,  in  fact,  in- 
vented as  an  aid 
to  ^cleanliness ; 
for  by  these  pul- 
leys are  still 
hoisted  into  the 
attics  all  arfictes 
of  household  use 
which  might  deface  the  immaculate  front  steps  and  halls. 

I  could  not  walk  along  these  streets  without  inquiring  what 
was  done  to  prevent  accidents  by  drowning.  How  can  Dutch 
children,  for  example,  ever  play  upon  such  narrow  sidewalks 
without  falling  into  the  canals,  and  how  can  the  men  who  have 
imbibed  too  freely  of  schnapps  contrive  to  guide  their  reeling 
steps  along  these  narrow  spaces,  which  are  unguarded  by  a 
parapet,  and  have  the  friendly  lamp-posts  few  and  far  between  ? 
Yet  I  was  told  that  deaths  from  drowning  here  are  rare,  partly 


CHARACTERISTIC   HOUSES,    AMSTERDAM. 


HOLLAND 


NARROW   SIDEWALKS. 


because  the  Dutch 
are  naturally  cau- 
tious ;  chiefly,  no 
doubt,  because  long 
practice  renders  them 
as  certain  of  their 
steps  as  Blondin  on 
his  swinging  rope. 

To  a  Dutchman 
it  would  seem  impos- 
sible to  have  too 
much  water  about 
his  house.  Even  with 
a  canal  in  front  and 
another  on  each  side, 
he  will  add,  if  possible,  an  artificial  pond  in  his  small  garden 
as  a  necessary  adjunct  to  his  comfort,  and,  if  he  builds  a 
summer-house,  he  will,  by  preference,  locate  it  over  a  canal. 
From  Amsterdam  we  journeyed  to  the  beautiful  Dutch  capi- 
tal,— the  Hague. 
It  is  a  charming 
place ;  not  quite 
so  odd  as  Am- 
sterdam and  Rot- 
terdam, since  the 
majority  of  its 
streets  are  not 
canals;  but  it  has 
all  the  best  pecul- 
iarities of  Hol- 
land, without  an 
undue  promi- 
nence of  water 
A  LIQUID  AVENUE.  and  unsavory 


2O4 


HOLLAND 


THE    PALACE   OF  JUSTICE,   THE   HAGUE. 


odors.  Indeed,  I 
think  there  is  not 
in  the  whole  of 
Europe,  from  Lis- 
bon to  St.  Peters- 
burg, a  cleaner 
and  more  aristo- 
cratic city  than 
the  Hague.  Its 
site  was  formerly 
a  densely  wooded 
hunting  park  be- 
longing to  the 
Counts  of  Hol- 
land, which  gave 
the  town  that  subsequently  rose  here  its  quaint  Dutch  title : 
"  's  Graven  Hage,"  or  the  Count's  Garden. 

As  a  rule,  the  architecture  of  the  Hague  is  not  only  solid 
and  substantial,  but  handsome ;  not  with  the  showy  finery  of 
Paris  or  Vienna, 
but  rather  like  a 
dress,  whose 
tasteful  colors 
and  perfect  adap- 
tation to  the  form 
lead  one  to  thor- 
oughly admire  it, 
without  at  first 
being  able  to  ex- 
plain its  charm. 
An  air  of  elegance 
and  leisure  per- 
vades its  streets. 
We  feel  that  here 


A   STREET   IN   THE   HAGUE. 


HOLLAND 


205 


is  the  repose  of  wealth  served  by  attentive  tradesmen.  At 
Rotterdam,  they  say,  one  makes  his  fortune ;  at  Amsterdam  he 
increases  it ;  but  at  the  Hague  he  spends  it. 

One  of  the  most  impressive  features  of  the  Dutch  capital  is 
the  National  Monument,  the  sight  of  which  recalls  the  founder 
of  the  nation's  independence,  — William,  the  Silent.  This  hero 


is  as  highly  revered  in 
Holland  as  Washing- 
ton is  in  the    United  States.     As  the 

principal  opponent  of  Philip  II.  in  the  Netherlands,  he  was 
the  incarnation  of  the  national  spirit  in  the  noblest  epoch 
of  Dutch  history,  and  dared  to  stand  forth  as  the  fearless 
leader  of  a  persecuted  people,  in  opposition  to  the  mightiest 
monarch  then  on  earth,  whose  kingdom  included  Spain, 
Belgium,  Holland,  a  part  of  Italy,  and  a  portion  of  North 
Africa,  and  threw  its  baneful  shadow  over  the  West  Indies, 
Mexico,  and  Peru.  Yet  Philip  II.  with  all  these  resources  could 


2O6 


HOLLAND 


not  crush  him;  and  finally,  in  1580,  was  base  enough  to  offer 
a  reward  of  twenty-five  thousand  crowns  and  a  title  of  nobility 
to  any  one  who  would  assassinate  him.  Responsive  to  this 
shameful  bribe,  a  score  of  dastardly  assassins  watched  for  a 
chance  to  strike  the  fatal  blow.  Eight  desperate  attempts  were 
made  before  the  one  that  finally  succeeded.  On  Sunday,  the 
roth  of  July,  1584,  the  Prince,  in  company  with  some  friends, 
was  going  down  the  stairway  of  his  house  to  dinner.  Leaning 
upon  his  arm  was  his  beautiful  young  wife,  who  had  already, 


several   years   before,  witnessed 
her   father  in  the   massacre  of 
denly  a  man  stepped  from  a 
and    extended     a     petition, 
him  to  come  again  when 
passed  on  to   the    dining- 
walked    away   without    a 
past,    William    was    as 
for  his  surname,  "the 


in    Paris   the    murder   of 
St.   Bartholomew.       Sud- 
corner    of    the     corridor 
The     Prince      requested 
he  was  not  engaged,  and 
hall.       The  stranger 
word.      During    the    re- 
usual  gay  and  cheerful ; 
Silent,"    does   not   im- 


THE    NATIONAL   MONUMENT,   THE   HAGUE. 


HOLLAND 


207 


THE   PALACE   AND   STATUE   OF  WILLIAM. 


ply  that  he  was  taciturn  or  gloomy,  but  merely  that  he  could, 
and  did,  conceal  his  plans  with  marvelous  dexterity.  His  wife, 
however,  appeared  troubled,  and  spoke  to  him  several  times  of 
the  strange  man  whom  they  had  just  met  in  the  hall,  saying 
that  he  had  certainly  the  most  villainous  face  that  she  had  ever 
seen.  William  laughed  lightly  at  her  fears  and  reassured  her; 
then,  at  the  close  of  the  repast,  he  led  his  wife  and  friends 
once  more  along  the  corridor.  As  he  approached  the  staircase, 
the  assassin,  who  was  waiting,  sprang  forth  and  shot  him  in  the 
breast.  The  Prince  reeled  backward  a  few  steps,  and  fell  into 
the  arms  of  his  young  wife.  Five  minutes  later,  one  of  the 
noblest  of  human  hearts  had  ceased  to  beat. 

Some  of  my  pleasantest  memories  of  the  Hague  are  con- 
nected with  the  spacious  park  that  lies  between  that  city  and 
the  sea.  Whoever  is  fond  of  level  walks  and  drives,  beneath 
magnificent  oaks  and  elms,  will  find  this  park  enchanting. 


208 


HOLLAND 


THE   PARK. 


Moreover,  as  it  is 
three  miles  long, 
it  is  never  over- 
crowded, and  so 
luxuriant  is  its 
vegetation  that  I 
believe  the  state- 
ment made  by  a 
Dutch  writer,  that 
in  the  Hague  and 
its  vicinity  there 
can  be  found  a 
tree,  a  flower,  and 
a  bird  for  each  of 
its  inhabitants. 

Here  and  there,  within  its  cool  enclosure,  are  villas  of  great 
beauty,  in  one  of  which  the  Queen  resides  in  summer;  yet 
there  is  no  unusual  seclusion  in  this  abode  of  royalty. 
Strangers  may  wander  freely  through  the  grounds,  and  even 
enter  the  villa  at 
certain  hours  of 
the  day,  for  the 
park  is  looked 
upon  as  national 
property  and  is 
accessible  to  all. 
It  is  the  remnant 
of  an  enormous 
forest,  which  for- 
merly covered  the 
entire  territory 
of  the  Nether- 
lands, and  en- 
abled its  primitive 


ROYAL  VILLA. 


HOLLAND 


209 


inhabitants  to  resist  for  so  long  a  time  the  legions  of  imperial 
Rome.  On  many  of  the  historic  elms  and  beeches  in  this 
forest  the  names  of  famous  individuals  have  been  bestowed. 
Hence  they  are  dear  to  every  Hollander.  More  than  once,  in 
their  heroic  struggle  for  independence,  the  Dutch  were  tempted 
to  dispose  of  these  trees  for  money,  which  was  so  essential; 
but  when  it  came  to  the  decisive  act,  the  citizens  always  saved 
them  by  a  voluntary  contribution. 

The  history  of  Holland  is  a 
record  of  the  unexpected. 
One  would  suppose  that 
this  flat  country — formed 
principally  of  the  mud 
deposited  by  the  Rhine, 
the  Meuse,  and  the 
Schelde  —  would  be 
the  last  part  of  the 
world  to  be  the  scene 
of  bloody  wars  and  fiend- 
ish cruelties ;  yet  on  this 
marshy  soil,  threaded  by 
sluggish  streams  and  brooded 
over  by  the  exhalations  of  a  threat- 
ening sea,  bloodshed  and  torture 
cast  their  baneful  shadows  for  a  hundred  years.  Here,  in  the 
sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries,  were  enacted  some  of  the 
most  important  deeds  in  the  world's  history;  and  on  a  land, 
whose  very  existence  is  a  perpetual  conflict  between  life  and 
death,  occurred  a  struggle  for  religious  and  political  freedom, 
unsurpassed  in  suffering  and  heroism.  The  Dutch  are  sometimes 
ridiculed  as  being  stupid.  It  is  a  serious  mistake.  Although 
they  live  of  necessity  a  great  part  of  the  time  in  cloudland, 
they  are  the  most  practical  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 
Slow  they  undoubtedly  are ;  but  they  exemplify  the  fable  of 


THE  TOWER  OF   MONT   ALIBAN. 


2IO 


HOLLAND 


the  tortoise  and  the  hare,  and  retain  abundant  proofs  of  their 
career  of  conquest  and  commercial  enterprise  when  they  were 
rivals  of  Great  Britain,  and  wrested  from  the  Portuguese  the 
sovereignty  of  the  eastern  seas.  Small  as  their  mother  country 
is,  the  Dutch  possess,  to-day,  in  the  Indian  Ocean  a  splendid 
archipelago,  which  a  Holland  writer  has  compared  to  a  girdle 
of  emeralds  strung  along  the  equator;  and  in  Java.  Sumatra, 
Borneo,  New  Guinea,  and  other  islands  they  have  a  colonial 
empire  that  covers  an  area  of  eight  hundred  thousand  square 
miles,  and  includes  a  population  of  thirty-three  million  souls. 

After  driving  for  two  miles  through  the  charming  forest  near 
the  Hague,  we  reached  the  little  town  of  Scheveningen.  His- 
torically, this  is  interesting  as  the  port  from  which  Charles  II. 
sailed  for  England  when  he  was  recalled  from  exile  after  the 
death  of  Cromwell ;  but  it  is  chiefly  famous  now  as  the  fashion- 
able watering-place  of  the  Hague.  Between  the  capital  and 


AT  SCHEVENINGEN. 


HOLLAND 


211 


:  -  -       -.  -     •- 


this  resort  horse-cars  and  cabs  are 
always  rolling  back  and  forth ;  and  on  bright 
summer  days  the  entire  population  of  the  Hague  appears  to 
have  assembled  on  the  ocean  sands.  The  fashionable  life 
of  Scheveningen  is  similar  to  that  of  every  Continental 
bathing-place.  There  are,  of  course,  the  grand  hotels,  the 
crowds  upon  the  beach,  the  bathing-carts,  the  wicker  chairs 
for  invalids,  the  music,  dancing,  and  flirtation  that  characterize 
Brighton,  Margate,  Biarritz,  and  Ostend ;  but  there  is  also 
quite  another  life  at  Scheveningen,  peculiar  to  the  country,  and 
indicated  most  appropriately  by  the  curious  figures  which  now 
and  then  stand  forth  in  striking  contrast  to  the  ephemeral 
gaiety  on  the  shore.  The  pleasure  seekers  lead  a  butterfly 
existence  here  for  two  or  three  months,  and  then  depart;  but 
the  old  fishermen  remain  permanent  features  of  the  landscape. 
I  found  the  natives  of  the  Holland  coast  interesting  objects  of 


212 


HOLLAND 


study.  Living  within  two  miles  of  the  capital,  and  every  sum- 
mer visited  by  the  crowds  of  fashion,  they  nevertheless  preserve 
unchanged  the  primitive  habits  of  their  forefathers.  Such  as 
they  were  three  centuries  ago  they  are  to-day.  The  personal 
appearance  of  some  of  them  is  extraordinary.  Their  skin  re- 
sembles the  exterior  of  a  smoke-cured  ham,  and  is  as  thickly 
seamed  with  wrinkles  as  Holland  is  with  canals.  I  fancied  that 


the  rain  must  run  in  regular 
channels  down  their  cheeks.  Their 
mouths  are  usually  large,  and,  when  no 
teeth  are  visible,  as  is  not  infrequently  the  case,  they  open 
like  old-fashioned  carpetbags.  I  recollect  that  one  of  these 
"toilers  of  the  sea"  had  legs,  the  curving  lines  of  which  I 
never  saw  surpassed,  save  in  a  wishbone  or  a  lobster's  claws; 
and  I  could  never  understand  what  must  have  happened  to 
him  in  infancy  to  give  his  limbs  a  shape  that  would  have  made 
his  fortune  in  a  dime  museum. 


HOLLAND 


215 


The    Sunday    costume    of    the 
Scheveningen  men  consists  of 
high-buttoned  jackets,  baggy 
trousers,  and  long  stockings. 
That  of  the  women  is  still 
more    peculiar.       They 
wear  a  kind  of  nightcap, 
with  embroidered  edges, 
drawn  tightly   over  the 
head  and  ears.     Beneath 
this  hangs,  on  each  side 
of  the  face,  something  which 
looks  in  the  distance  like  a 
misplaced  switch,  but  proves  to 
be  a  solitary  curl.     The  uninitiated 
visitor    might    suppose    that    the 
special  glory  of  their  dress  was  a  kind  of 


A    FISHERMAN. 


A    SCHEVENINGEN    FA5 


vest,  embroidered  with 
all  the  colors 
of  the  rainbow ; 
but  their  real 
wealth  is  esti- 
mated, not  by 
the  richness  of 
their  jackets, 
but  by  the  num- 
ber of  skirts 
worn  at  one 
time.  Some- 
times a  woman 
boasts  of  wear- 
ing twelve  or 
fifteen,  at  once, 
fastened  around 
her  ample  waist. 


2l6 


HOLLAND 


INTERIOR   OF   A    FISHERMAN  S    HOUSE. 


Both  men  and  women  encase  their  feet  in  wooden  shoes, 
which  seem  appropriate  when  half  immersed  in  sand;  but 
on  city  pavements  they  make  a  noise  resembling  the  rattle  of 
"bones"  between  the  fingers  of  a  negro  minstrel. 

The  faces  of  these  fisher  folk  look  old  and  anxious ;  buMvho 
can  be  surprised  at  this  ?  What  a  toilsome,  cheerless  life  they 
lead  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  when  only  the  women  and 
children  can  remain  to  watch  and  wait  and  keep  the  hearthstone 
bright,  while  all  the  stalwart  men  of  the  village  are  at  sea!  But 
when  the  fleet  comes  back  there  is  joy  indeed.  Women  and 
children  then  rush  down  upon  the  sands  to  welcome  their 
returning  fathers,  husbands,  and  brothers.  An  old  man  rides 
on  horseback  through  the  surf,  catches  the  rope  thrown  from 
the  prow  of  the  first  ship,  and  brings  back  to  the  crowd  the 
news  as  to  the  draught  of  herring,  and  (more  important  still) 
whether  all  the  men  are  safe  and  well.  Then  follow  the  excite- 


HOLLAND 


217 


ment  of  the  landing,  the  eager  welcome  home,  and,  last  of  all, 
the  public  sale  of  fish  upon  the  shore.  During  these  scenes 
the  sad-eyed,  anxious  women  seem  transfigured.  I  saw  some 
faces  which  looked  almost  beautiful,  when  turned  with  love  and 
pride  toward  the  brave  men  who,  doubtless,  seemed  to  them  like 
warriors  coming  home  from  battle.  Nor  is  this  strange,  for  as  I 
walked  along  this  beach,  and  watched  the  square-built,  clumsy 
ships,  I  wondered  that  their  crews  ever  came  back  from  the 
fierce  conflict  with  the  elements.  What  an  experience  it  must  be 
to  live  for  months,  tossed  up  and  down  in  rolling  tubs  like  these, 
upon  the  billows  of  the  terrible  North  Sea,  which  either  sulks  for 
weeks  at  a  time  beneath  its  sombre  sky  and  cloak  of  fog,  or 
grows  tempestuous  if  ruffled  by  the  lightest  gale,  and  is  forever 
peopled  in  the  popular  mind  with  monsters  longing  to  engulf 
all  who  dare  to  spread  a  sail  above  its  waves. 

As  evening  deepened  into  night,  I  walked  alone  upon  the 
beach  at  Scheveningen.  A  storm  had  swept  the  sea  for 
hours,  and  now  its  cumulative  waves,  baffled  in  search  of 


THE   BOATS. 


2l8 


HOLLAND 


ON   THE   SANDS. 


leaped  toward  the  beach,  like  some  chained 
the  mouth,  whose  leash  might  break  at  any 
veyed  it,  with  that 
mingled  dread 
and  fascina- 
tion which  such 
scenes  inspire, 
and  recollected 
that  large  por- 
tions of  the  land 
behind  me  lay 
many  feet  below 
the  ocean  level, 
the  wealth  and 
comfort  I  had 
seen  in  Hol- 
land's prosper- 
ous cities  and 


other  prey,  sought 
to  expend  their 
fury  on  the  help- 
less shore ;  but 
held  back  by  the 
curb  which  Na- 
ture's tidal  forces 
had  silently  im- 
posed upon  them, 
the  angry  billows 
spat  their  hatred 
impotently  on  the 
land  in  hissing 
spray,  which  rose 
to  an  appalling 
height  and  then 
monster,  foaming  at 
moment.  As  I  sur- 


UTILIZING   THE   WIND. 


HOLLAND 


221 


productive  farms  appeared  almost  miraculous,  since  they  had 
been  acquired  and  were  preserved  only  by  splendid  courage 
and  untiring  toil,  in  battling  against  that  element  which 
reigns  supreme  over  three-quarters  of  the  globe.  Eternal 
vigilance  is  for  the  Dutch  the  price  of  their  existence,  and 
watchmen  must  be  stationed  day  and  night  upon  the  dikes 
to  give  immediate  warning  of  /^  approaching 

peril.     Moreover,  a  corps  of  engi-  />     neers  is  em- 

ployed exclusively  in  superintend-  ^    /  •         ing  this  Ti- 


HOLLAND  BELOW  THE  OCEAN  LEVEL. 


tanic  struggle  ;  and  although  more 
than  fifteen  hundred  million  dollars 
have  been  expended  in  constructing  ramparts,  two  millions  are 
used  annually  to  maintain  them.  Surely,  no  Hollander  should 
find  it  difficult  to  believe  the  story  of  the  Deluge,  or  fail  to  com- 
prehend that  part  of  the  Mosaic  account  of  the  Creation  which 
tells  of  the  dividing  of  "  the  waters  from  the  waters."  Two  hun- 
dred years  ago  Holland  was  described  as 

"  A  country  that  draws  fifty  feet  of  water, 
In  which  men  live  as  in  the  hold  of  nature ; 
And  when  the  sea  does  in  upon  them  break, 
And  drowns  a  province,  does  but  spring  a  leak." 


222 


HOLLAND 


To  me,  however,  it  resembles  rather  a  beleaguered  fortress, 
before  whose  gates  a  tireless  foe  is  constantly  at  work,  now 
undermining  secretly  its  massive  dikes,  now  charging  furiously 
on  the  rescued  soil,  as  if  determined  to  reclaim  its  own.  The 


HOLLAND  S   TIRELESS    ALLY. 


HOLLAND 


223 


danger  can  be  best  appreciated  by  standing  behind  one  of 
Holland's  ocean  bulwarks  at  high  tide,  and  hearing  the  breakers 
dash  against  the  other  side  of  the  wall,  sixteen  or  eighteen  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  land.  For,  although  calm  and  beautiful 
at  times,  the  North  Sea  can  be  treacherous  and  cruel.  Again 
and  again  it  has  forced  an  entrance  here,  and  by  a  sudden 
onset  of  its  waves  has  laid  waste  prosperous  towns  and  peace- 
ful villages  and  swept  to  destruction  thousands  of  inhabitants. 
In  the  fearful 
inundation,  of 
1570,  nearly  all 
the  dikes  were 
destroyed,  ships 
were  carried 
into  the  inte- 
rior of  the  coun- 
try, and  one 
hundred  thou- 
sand people  are 
said  to  have 
perished.  Yet 
the  indomitable 
Dutch  have  al- 
ways rallied, 
undismayed,  to 
expel  the  foe, 

and  have  invariably  succeeded.  Recently,  they  have  even 
assumed  the  offensive,  and  compelled  the  ocean  to  retire 
from  land  which  it  had  occupied  for  centuries.  Hundreds 
of  square  miles  of  territory  have,  in  the  last  few  years,  been 
wrested  from  the  sea  solely  by  means  of  windmills  ;  and  the 
fields,  thus  rescued  and  walled  in  with  massive  dikes,  are 
spotted  now  with  herds  of  cattle  ruminating  peacefully  where, 
but  a  little  while  ago,  the  sea  rolled  fathoms  deep.  Truly,  a 


ROTTEKDAM    HARBOR. 


224 


HOLLAND 


country  that  can  thus  repel  an  enemy  of  such  tremendous 
power ;  and  has,  moreover,  called  the  winds  of  heaven  to  assist 
her  in  the  conflict,  is  a  magnificent  proof  of  man's  superiority 
over  nature ;  and,  as  I  trod  the  battle-ground  of  these  contend- 
ing forces,  I  realized,  as  never  before,  the  truth  of  the  familiar 
proverb :  "  God  made  the  sea,  but  the  Dutch  have  made  the 
shore." 


MEXICO 


THE  oldest  gateways  of  our  great  republic  face  the 
rising  sun.  Through  these  our  ancestors  entered  the 
New  World.  Up  to  their  portals  for  two  hundred 
years  has  swept  a  ceaseless  flood  of  immigration  from  an 
older  shore.  Through  them,  to-day,  there  ebbs  and  flows  a 
mighty  tide  of  tourists,  who  every  spring  go  forth  to  wander 
in  historic  Europe,  and  every  fall  return  through  the  same 
gateways  to  their  homes.  Within  the  last  few  years,  however, 
a  portion  of 
this  stream  of 
travel  has 
sought  other 
channels,  and 
through  the 
doorways  of 
our  western 
coast,  facing 
the  mightiest 
ocean  on  our 
globe,  increas- 
in  g  t  h  ou- 
sands  annual- 
ly make  their 
way  to  Alaska 
or  Japan. 


OUR    PRIVATE   CAR. 


228 


MEXICO 


AN   ADOBE   HOUSE. 


But  tran^ 
sit  through 
the  ports  of 
the  Atlantic 
or  Pacific  im- 
plies an  ocean 
voyage,  which 
is  to  many  a 
serious  draw- 
back. There 
still  remains, 
however,  on 
our  southern 
boundary,  a 

door  which  has  not  this  objection ;  for  there,  divided  from  us 
by  no  ocean  barrier,  but  only  by  a  narrow  river  called  the  Rio 
Grande,  lies  outstretched  beneath  the  Southern  Cross,  and  not 
unlike  a  mighty  cornucopia  in  form,  a  land  of  which  we  know 
as  yet  far  less  than  we  have  learned  of  Europe,  and  hardly 
more  than  we  now  know  of  China  and  Japan  ;  a  country  of 
mysterious  origin  and  vast  antiquity ;  of  noble  scenery  and 
impressive 
history  ;  of 
picturesque 
costumes,  and 
a  life  half 
Spanish  and 
half  Oriental ; 
the  dwelling- 
place  of  Az- 
tecs and  of 
Spaniards  ; 
the  battle- 
ground of 

m 


A   DESERT   VIEW. 


MEXICO 


229 


Montezuma  and  of  Cortez ;  the  realm  of  sunshine  and  of 
silver,  —  Mexico. 

It  was  exactly  midnight  when  we  glided  through  the  south- 
ern gateway  known  as  "  Eagle  Pass,"  and  our  long  line  of  cars 
crept  out  in  Indian  file  upon  the  bridge  that  spans  the  Rio 
Grande.  Below  me  I  could  see  a  silver  streak,  sharply  defined 
between  two  parallel  lines,  which  I  well  knew  to  be  the  opposite 
shores  of  the  United  States  and  Mexico.  No  matter  how  ex- 
tensively one  may  have  traveled,  he  feels  instinctively  a  thrill 

of  emotion 
on  entering 
an  unknown 
land.  In  go- 
ing to  Eu- 
rope, this 
feeling  comec 
upon  one 
gradually. 
The  ocean 
voyage  is  a 
preparation 
for  an  advent 
on  a  foreign 
shore.  Enter- 
ing Mexico, 

however,  the  change  is  almost  instantaneous,  and  I  shall 
long  recall  the  sensation  I  experienced,  when,  poised  above 
the  Rio  Grande,  I  saw  at  the  same  instant,  in  the  gloom  of 
night,  on  one  side  the  dim  outline  of  my  native  land,  and  on 
the  other  the  sombre  profile  of  the  Mexican  republic. 

The  next  morning  I  awoke  to  find  myself  in  a  foreign 
country.  I  saw  that  we  were  rolling  through  a  perfectly  flat 
plain,  flanked  on  the  east  and  west  by  mountain  ranges. 
Apparently  this  area  was  once  the  bed  of  a  gigantic  lake, 


AN    OX-TEAM. 


230 


MEXICO 


perhaps  a  portion  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  To-day  it  is  almost 
as  sterile  as  a  desert.  Mile  after  mile,  and  hour  after  hour,  we 
looked  upon  a  desolate  expanse  of  sand,  arid  and  blistered  by  a 
burning  sun.  For  nine  months  it  had  received  no  rain.  Its 
only  vegetation  was  a  stunted  growth  of  prickly  pear  and 
cactus  plants,  occasionally  varied  by  "Spanish  bayonet"  trees, 
which  look  like  porcupines  on  poles.  While  traveling  through 
this  dreary  waste  we  saw,  for  hours  at  a  time,  no  signs  of  life 

save  an  occa- 
sional buz- 
zard circling 
in  the  air,  in 
search  of  some 
poor  creature 
stricken  by 
the  sun.  In 
certain  locali- 
ties, however, 
goats  are  as 
numerous  as 
on  the  heights 
above  New 
York.  Their 
diet  is  not 

CACTUS. 

confined       to 

such  dyspeptic  articles  as  sardine  boxes  and  tomato  cans ;  but 
each  to  his  taste!  To  Mexican  goats  the  Spanish  bayonet 
spikes  are  doubtless  just  as  sweet  as  New  York  clothes-pins, 
and  prickly  cactus  leaves  replace  for  them  the  worn-out  hair 
brushes  of  Harlem. 

Looking  upon  such  cheerless  scenery,  the  traveler  at  first 
exclaims,  "This  is  an  uninviting  route  by  which  to  enter 
Mexico "  ;  and,  it  must  be  confessed,  the  first  appearance  of 
the  country  is  exceedingly  unattractive.  To  ride  four  hun- 


MEXICO 


233 


CROSSING   THE    DESERT. 


dred  miles 
through  alkali 
plains,  the 
dust  of  which 
sifts  through 
the  windows 
of  the  car  and 
lies  in  spoon- 
fuls on  his 
clothing,  is  a 
grim  penalty 
that  every 
tourist  who 
goes  to  Mex- 
ico must  pay. 

But,  after  all,  he  has  to  endure  it  only  twenty-four  hours; 
and  what  is  that  compared  to  the  tribute  which  old  Neptune 
frequently  exacts  from  travelers  crossing  the  Atlantic  ?  The 
mountains  which  enclose  this  wilderness  relieve  the  landscape 
from  complete  monotony.  Their  strange  forms  offer  infinite 
variety.  Without  a  single  break,  they  line  the  desert  all  day 
long ;  at  times  advancing,  then  retreating,  precisely  like  the 
rugged  shores 
of  an  extensive 
lake.  When 
close  at  hand, 
their  sunburnt 
peaks  look 
savage  and 
forbidding; 
but,  at  a  dis- 
tance, a  soft, 
mellow  haze 
conceals  their 


-- 


DESERT  (NEAR  LAEREON). 


234 


MEXICO 


harsher  features,  and  renders  them  as  delicate  in  coloring  as 
an  aquarelle. 

We  could  not  understand,  at  first,  why  railway  stations 
should  have  been  built  upon  this  Mexican  desert.  The  depot 
was  often  the  only  building  visible,  surrounded  by  half  a  dozen 
scrawny  palms,  resembling  worn-out  feather  dusters,  and  domi- 
nated by  a  telegraph  pole,  cutting  its  form  like  a  gigantic 
gibbet  against  the  sky ;  but,  several  miles  distant  from  these 


stations,  there  is  usually  a  large 
plantation,  or  a  little  town,  be- 
tween which  and  the  railroad 
regular  communication  is  main- 
tained by  means  of  tram-cars  or  a  stage-coach.  One  of  those 
stage-coaches  I  shall  never  forget.  I  looked  at  it  as  I  might 
have  gazed  upon  an  instrument  of  torture  used  by  the  In- 
quisition. It  seemed  more  perfectly  adapted  to  inflict  excru- 
ciating misery  upon  its  occupants  than  any  vehicle  I  had  ever 
seen,  even  in  the  remotest  districts  of  old  Spain.  Could  it  be 
possible  that  after  five  or  six  decades  of  active  service  :'n  the 
Mother  Country,  this  coach  had  been  sent  out  to  Mexico  ?  Its 
springs  had  originally  been  of  leather,  but  were  now  of  rope. 
The  doors  had,  apparently,  passed  through  several  desperate 


MEXICO 


235 


THE   STAGE-COACH. 


conflicts  with  banditti.  The  windows 
had  been  long  since  broken  out. 
The  white  dust  lay  so  thick  upon 
the  seats  that  I  at  first  supposed 
them  to  be  covered  with  gray 
cloth,  until  I  felt  my  fingers  sink 
into  the  powdery 
mass  to  reach  at 
last  a  species  of  bed-rock, 
which  at  some  unknown 
period  of  the  past  had 
been  a  leather  cushion.  Yet  this  was 
the  regular  coach  between  the  station 
and  a  village  forty  miles  away.  Five  reckless  passengers  were 
about  to  risk  their  lives  in  its  interior.  The  fare  was  three  dol- 
lars. I  asked  if  this  included  the  services  of  an  undertaker  on 
arriving  at  their  destination,  but  could  not  get  a  satisfactory 
reply.  After  long  years  of  traveling  in  such  vehicles  as  this,  it 

is  not  strange 
that  the  Mex- 
icans regard- 
ed tram-cars, 
drawn  by 
mules  along 
smooth  rails, 
a  priceless 
luxury,  and 
made  no  seri- 
ous objection 
when  the  rail- 
roads only 
came  within  a 
few  miles  of 
their  towns. 


236 


MEXICO 


A    MEXICAN    PRIVATE   CARRIAGE. 


Indeed,  tramways 
in  Mexico  some- 
times connect  the 
railroad  with  cities 
thirty  or  forty 
miles  distant,  the 
longest  line  — 
between  Vera 
Cruz  and  Jalapa 
—  covering  a  dis- 
tance of  seventy- 
six  miles.  Until 
comparatively  re- 
cent times,  with 
the  exception  of 
the  highway  built  from  the  coast  by  Cortez,  communication  here 
was  chiefly  made  on  horseback.  The  difficulties  of  stage-coach 
traveling  were  sometimes  almost  insurmountable.  A  Mexican 
gentleman  told  me  that,  twenty  years  ago,  a  trip  from  Guada- 
lajara to  the 
capital  re- 
quired (when 
the  roads 
were  good) 
about  six 
days.  "  And 
how  long 
when  the 
roads  were 
bad?"  I  asked. 
"Six  months," 
was  the  reply. 
Near  one 
of  the  stations 


PEONS    AT    STATION. 


MEXICO 


237 


we 


A    MEXICAN    HORSEMAN. 


beheld  a  group  of  Mexican 
horsemen,  each  thoroughly 
armed,  and  wearing  on  his 
head  a  dark  sombrero.  These 
cavaliers  were  once  high- 
waymen, who  held  up  the 
stages,  robbed  the  passen- 
gers, and  rendered  travel- 
ing here  romantic.  But 
President  Diaz  reformed 
them.  On  coming  into 
power,  he  sent  for  their 
leaders  and  inquired : 
"  My  friends,  how  much 
does  highway  robbery 
pay  you  on  an  average  every  year  ?  "  They  named  a  certain 
sum.  "  Well,"  continued  the  President,  "  would  you  not  prefer  to 
earn  that  money  honestly  and  feel  that  you  will  die  like  Chris- 
tians ? "  Most  of  them  thought  they  would,  and  the  interview 
closed  with  a  promise  of  a  salary  of  forty  dollars  a  month ;  in  return 
for  which  the 
men  agreed  to 
furnish  arms 
and  horses, 
and  (as  the 
"Mexican  Ru- 
ral Guards") 
to  keep  the 
country  free 
from  bandits. 
With  such  pro- 
tectors who 
can  feel  unsafe 
in  Mexico  ? 


PRIMITIVE    LOCOMOTION. 


238 


MEXICO 


The  next 
morning,  we 
found  that  we 
had  left  the 
desert  and  its 
heat  behind 
and  below  us. 
All  through 
the  night  our 
engine  had 
been  toiling 
upward,  till  we 
had  reached 
the  Mexican  table-land. 

Three-fourths  of  Mexico  is  a  pla- 
teau, from  six  thousand  to  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Were  it  not  lifted  thus  to  a  plane  far  higher  than 
the  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  the  climate  of  Mexico  would 
be  that  of  Nubia  ;  but,  once  transported  to  that  height,  the 
traveler  finds  a 
temperature  de- 
lightful through- 
out the  entire 
year.  Unaware 
of  this  fact,  I  had 
supposed  a  trip 
to  Mexico,  in  any 
season  except 
winter,  would  be 
uncomfortable; 
but,  on  the  con- 
trary, in  some  re- 
spects the  pleas- 
antest  time  to 


MEXICO 


241 


visit  Aztec  land  is  summer.  May  is  usually  the  hottest  season 
of  the  year,  yet  though  I  spent  a  portion  of  that  month  in  the 
City  of  Mexico  I  \vore  a  light  overcoat  every  evening. 

The  remaining  fourth  of  Mexico,  which  is  not  table-land,  is 
easily  described.  Whether  the  tourist  journeys  east  or  west 
from  the  centre  of  the  country,  he  will  soon  find  himself  upon 
the  edge  of  the  plateau,  almost  as  if  he  were  standing  on  the 
brink  of  a  precipice.  From  this  the  land  descends  abruptly, 
on  one  side  toward  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  and  on  the 
other  toward  the  Pacific 
and  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia. There  are, 
however,  certain 
intervening  ter- 
races, breaking 
the  steep  de- 
scent, which  are 
called  temperate 
regions,  because 
the  elevation  of 
three  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea 
gives  them  a  mod- 
erate and  delight- 
ful climate.  Below  these  are  the  Tierras  Calientes,  or  Hot 
Lands,  of  the  coast.  What  an  amazing  country  then,  is  this, 
which  has  three  zones:  the  tropical,  the  temperate,  and  the 
cold,  ranged  not  from  south  to  north,  as  elsewhere  in  the  north- 
ern hemisphere,  but  upward,  from  the  ocean  level  toward  the 
sky!  Moreover,  on  the  grand  plateau,  some  of  the  loftiest 
mountains  of  our  planet  tower  still  further  heavenward,  wearing 
eternally  their  coronets  of  snow.  In  twenty-four  hours,  there- 
fore, if  he  will,  the  traveler  in  Mexico  may  pass  through  almost 


IN  THE   LOWLANDS. 


242 


MEXICO 


every  grade  of  climate  known  upon  the  globe,  from  torrid  heat 
to  glacial  cold. 

During  the  day,  and  frequently  half  the  night,  when  we 
were  side-tracked  in  one  place,  men,  women,  and  children 
gathered  about  our  car  like  sea-gulls  round  an  ocean  steamer, 
eagerly  seizing  ail  the  refuse  thrown  out  by  our  cook,  and  eating 
it  with  evident  delight.  There  was,  however,  nothing  bold  or 


GKOl'P    BY    THE    RAILROAD. 


disagreeable  in  their  sad  persistency.  It  was  the  desperate 
appeal  of  hopeless  poverty ;  and  it  was  with  pity,  not  dis- 
gust, that  I  beheld  these  natives. 

The  finest  painting  that  I  saw  in  Mexico  portrays  an  Aztec 
woman,  in  the  time  of  Cortez,  kneeling  beside  the  body  of  her 
murdered  husband,  and  appealing  to  a  priest  to  save  her  from 
the  fury  of  the  conquering  Spaniards.  The  scene,  alas  !  is  true 
to  history.  The  Spaniards  are  responsible  for  what  the  Mexi- 
can Indians  are  to-day.  The  Aztec  race  was  in  many  ways 


MEXICO 


243 


POLICE   AND    PRISONERS. 


remarkably 
accomplished 
and  intelli- 
gent. Their 
Spanish  con- 
querors, how- 
ever, mad 
with  lust  for 
gold,  slaugh- 
tered them  by 
thousands, 
and  made  the 
survivors,  vir- 
tually, slaves. 
The  Indians 
of  to-day  are, 
t h  er ef ore, 

timid  and  retiring  in  manner,  with  a  sad  expression,  as  though 
they  realized  that  they  are  now  a  crushed  and  conquered  race. 
Are  they  susceptible  of  improvement  ?  Undoubtedly.  President 
Juarez  —  the  ablest  man  whom  Mexico  has  ever  produced,  the 
conqueror  of  Maximilian,  and  the  architect  of  the  republic  —  was 
a  full-blooded  Indian,  a  noble  specimen  of 
the  old  Aztec  race. 

I  was  surprised  to  learn  how  large  a 
proportion  of  the  present  Mexican  popu- 
lation is  composed  of  descendants  of  the 
Aztecs.  At  least  two-thirds  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Mexico  are  Indians,  most  of  them 
poor,  ignorant,  and  ragged.  Even  in  the 
capital  the  proportion  is  about  the  same. 
I  doubt  not  that  a  brilliant  future  is  await- 
ing Mexico,  thanks  to  the  excellent  gov- 
ernment of  President  Diaz,  the  introduc- 


YOUNG    MEXICO 


244 


MEXICO 


A   MEXICAN   WATER-CART. 


tion  of  railroads,  and  the  development  of  her  magnificent  min- 
eral and  agricultural  enterprises ;  but  there  can  be  no  question 
that  she  has  before  her  an  Herculean  task  in  educating  seven 
million  ignorant  Indians,  and  elevating  them  to  decent  life  and 
the  responsibilities  of  citizenship. 

Our  first  real  halting-place  in  Mexico  was  Zacatecas,  one  of 
the   loftiest  situations  on   the  table-land,  and  we  saw  without 

regret  the  train 
move  on  and  leave 
our  special  car 
upon  a  side-track 
till  the  following 
day.  The  view  of 
Zacatecas  from 
the  railroad  is  im- 
pressive. Directly 
opposite  the  sta- 
tion rises  a  rugged 
mountain,  wear- 
ing, as  a  unique 
and  ever  to  be 
remembered  or- 
nament, a  curving 


ZACATECAS. 


MEXICO 


245 


crown  of  perpendicular  rocks,  whose  moss-like  vegetation  makes 
them  look  like  malachite.  Below  this  I  beheld  what  seemed  to  be 
an  Oriental  city,  since  almost  all  the  buildings  had  flat  roofs,  with 
walls  of  unbaked  bricks,  just  as  one  sees  them  in  the  Holy  Land. 
*  The  most  remarkable  feature  of  Zacatecas  is  its 

\       vivid    coloring.     Its   varied    hues   are    charming,    and 


STREET   VIEW,   ZACATECAS. 


here  an  artist  would  be  transported  with  delight.  All  the  plastered 
walls  are  painted,  and  every  street  is,  therefore,  framed  in  red, 
orange,  yellow,  green,  blue,  or  violet,  adorned  with  gaily  decorated 
signs.  Many  of  the  buildings,  it  is  true,  are  dirty  arrd  dilapidated, 
and  most  of  them  have  but  one  story.  To  scrutinize  them  closely 
is  disenchanting;  but,  in  the  brilliant  sunshine  of  the  tropics 
and  under  the  intense  blue  sky  of  Mexico,  even  squalid  struc- 
tures become  picturesque.  When  I  glanced  down  the  streets,  I 
usually  saw  a  multitude  of  motionless  or  moving  figures,  their 
garments  of  white  cotton  half  concealed  by  yellow,  red,  and 


MEXICO 


PLAZA   FOUNTAIN,   ZACATECAS. 


purple  blankets ;  and  as  I  watched  the  multicolored  groups, 
meeting  and  separating,  or  coming  and  going  before  the 
brightly  tinted  walls,  I  felt  as  if  I  were  looking  into  a  kaleido- 
scope. But,  while  the  natives  are  attractive  at  a  distance,  a 
closer  scrutiny  reveals  the  fact  that,  "  Tis  distance  lends  en- 
chantment "  to  the  Mexican.  The  peaked  hat  of  straw  or  felt 
becomes,  on  near  approach,  a  thing  to  be  studied  under  a  mi- 
croscope ;  the  bronzed  face,  looking  in  the  distance  so  effective, 
is  painfully  innocent  of  soap  and  water ;  and  it  would  be  ad- 
visable to  treat  the  brightly  colored  blanket  as  the  Priest  and 
Levite  did  the  traveler  on  the  way  to  Jericho,  when  they 
"  passed  by  on  the  other  side."  As  for  the  natives'  shirts  and 
trousers,  they  call  to  mind  the  sails  of  an  old  ship,  snow-white, 
when  seen  upon  the  verge  of  the  horizon,  but  proving  upon 


MEXICO 


249 


closer  inspection  to  be  a  gray  and  melancholy  waste  of  soiled 
canvas,  seamed  with  patches.  It  is  not,  I  am  sure,  an  exag- 
geration to  say  that  one-half  of  the  inhabitants  of  Mexico  are 
either  barefooted  or  wear  a  kind  of  sandal,  consisting  of  a  piece 
of  leather  strapped  to  the  foot  like  a  skate. 

We  saw  a  number  of  water-venders  in  Zacatecas,  whose 
little  tanks  (strapped  on  their  shoulders  after  the  fashion  of 
Italian  organ-grinders),  contained  the  drinking  water  which 
they  were  carrying  to  the  houses ;  for  water  here  is  precious, 
and  has  been  sold  sometimes  as  high  as  two  cents  a  gallon. 
If  drinking  water  be  thus  scarce,  it  is  painful  to  reflect  on  the 
bathing  conveniences  in  this  Mexican  city.  So  far  as  my  ob- 
servation went,  however,  the  lack  of  water  for  that  purpose 
occasioned  its  inhabitants  no  uneasiness,  —  apparently  to 


WATER-VENDERS. 


250 


none  of  the  natives  was  a  bath  either  a  reminiscence  or  an 
aspiration. 

On  one  occasion  we  left  our  comfortable  Pullman  car  to 
test  the  comforts  of  a  genuine  Mexican  hotel.  The  halting-place 
selected  for  this  doubtful  experiment  was  Silao.  It  was  mid- 
night when  we  reached  it.  Leaving  the  train,  a  few  steps 
brought  us  to  a  dimly  lighted  building,  called  "  The  Grand 
Hotel."  A  gray-haired  man  in  neglige  attire  surveyed  us, 
silently,  as  we  approached. 

"  Bnenas  Tardes,  Senor,"  we  exclaimed,  "  have  you  re- 
ceived our  telegram  asking  for  five  rooms  ?  " 

"  I  have,"  was  the  reply,  "  and  they  are  ready.  When  do 
you  wish  to  go  to  them  ? " 

"As  soon  as  possible,  Senor." 

"Will  you  have  a 
blanket  ?  "   asked  the 
gray-haired  man. 

I  looked  at  him 
in  some  alarm,  and 
ventured,  "Yes." 
"And  sheets?" 
"Why,— yes." 
"  And  a  pillow- 
case ? " 

"  Ye— es." 
"  Do  your  com- 
panions also  want 
such  luxuries  ? " 

I  gazed  at   my 

companions.  They  were  speechless  with  astonishment.  Taking 
their  silence  for  consent,  the  gray-haired  man  deliberately 
opened  the  door,  not  of  the  hotel-safe,  but  of  a  wardrobe. 
From  this  he  took  five  scarlet  blankets,  ten  sheets,  five  pillow- 
cases, and  as  many  towels.  Then  calling  a  half-naked  Indian, 


HOTEL   AT   KILAO. 


MEXICO 


251 


THE   STAIRCASE. 


he  piled  this  bed- 
ding on  his  back, 
as  if  he  were  a 
donkey,  and  bade 
him  lead  us  to 
our  rooms.  After 
one  look  at  the 
Indian,  we  much 
preferred  to  carry 
our  own  bed- 
clothes ;  but,  be- 
ing too  tired  to 
attempt  it,  we 
followed  him  up 
the  staircase. 
This  was  no 
easy  undertaking,  for  the  hotel  corridors  were  in  total  darkness, 
and  as  our  Indian  was  of  the  color  of  a  burnt  ginger-snap,  he 
shed  no  radiance  through  the  gloom.  Providentially,  however, 
though  he  was  lost  to  us  by  the  sense  of  sight,  another  of  our 
senses  permitted 
no  doubt  of  his 
locality. 

We  presently 
found  him  light- 
ing five  candles 
for  as  many 
rooms.  There  was 
no  choice  in  these 
apartments.  Each 
had  two  iron  beds, 
a  lilliputian  wash- 
stand,  two  chairs, 
and  a  scanty  piece 


THE    BED-ROOM. 


252 


MEXICO 


of  matting  stuck  like  a  postage-stamp  upon  a  floor  of  stone. 
There  were  no  windows,  and  doors  in  the  form  of  blinds 
gave  to  these  rooms  their  only  light  and  air.  The  night 
that  followed  marked  the  greatest  triumph  of  insomnia  that  my 
life  has  ever  known.  In  the  first  place,  my  pillow  was  as  flat 
and  hard  as  an  adobe  brick ;  and,  secondly,  some  choice  Silao 
fleas  had  left  the  Indian  bedclothes-bearer  for  a  change  of  diet. 
Then,  too,  to  make  my  misery  complete,  close  by  the  Grand 
Hotel,  a  chorus  of  roosters  was  rehearsing  in  distracting  unison. 
Aroused  by  these,  a  score  of  dogs  kept  barking  till  they  gasped 
for  breath ;  while,  ever  and  anon,  a  melancholy  donkey,  worn 
with  toil,  would  burst  into  a  fit  of  asinine  hysterics,  and  shared 
apparently  my  mournful  vigil  till  the  dawn. 

Leaving  Silao  the  next  morning,  a  short  and  pleasant  jour- 
ney brought  us  to  Guanajuato,  a  curious  old  city,  famous  for 
three  hundred  years.  With  its  flat-roofed  adobe  houses,  it  is, 
like  Zacatecas,  Oriental  in  appearance,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 


A   STREET,   GUANAJUATO. 


MEXICO 


253 


A    STREET   AND   CART. 


range  of  moun- 
tains which  look 
as  lifeless  as  the 
moon,  and  as  de- 
void of  value  as  a 
beggar's  hand. 
But,  in  reality, 
these  mountains 
are  veritable 
treasure-houses. 
Their  tawny 
frames  are  inter- 
laced with  count- 
less veins  of  sil- 
ver, whose  life- 
blood  stirs  the 
pulse  of  the  finan- 
cial world.  The  mines  of  Guanajuato  are  ranked  among  the 
richest  on  our  planet,  and  they  have  given  to  the  world  a  very 
large  amount  of  its  existing  stock  of  silver.  The  visitor  does 
not,  however,  see  much  evidence  of  wealth  in  Guanajuato's 
streets.  Most  of 
the  buildings  are 
as  plain  as  though 
the  neighboring 
hills  were  merely 
heaps of sand, the 
pavements  are 
hardly  more 
comfortable  to 
walk  on  than 
the  beds  of 
dried-up  moun- 
tain brooks,  and 


COURTYARD  OF  A  MEXICAN  HOUSE. 


254 


MEXICO 


STREET   IN   GUANAJUATO. 


the  poor  na- 
tives seem  in 
want  not  only 
of  silver,  but 
of  clothing. 
Yet,  Guana- 
juato is  a  pic- 
turesque old 
town.  Built 
on  two  sides 
of  a  ravine, 
its  houses 
hang  upon 
the  cliffs,  as  if 
they  had  been 

blown  into  the  air  by  some  reck- 
less blast,  and  had  alighted  by  good  fortune  on  convenient 
ledges.  A  hasty  traveler  would  probably  consider  Guanajuato 
very  unattractive  as  a  place  of  residence,  and  might  suppose  its 
only  inhabitants  were  poverty-stricken  Indians  ;  but  a  Mexican 
gentleman  assured  me  that  he  would  rather  live  here  than  any- 
where else  in  Mex- 
ico, except  the 
capital.  "  Why 
so  ? "  I  asked. 
"  Because,"  was 
the  reply,  "the 
society  of  the 
town  is  delight- 
ful. Nowhere 
have  I  more 
charming  friends 
than  in  Guana- 
juato." 


WASHING  TAILINGS. 


MEXICO 


255 


We  visited  here  one  of  the  establishments  where  silver  is 
extracted  from  the  ore.  Its  high  walls  gave  it  the  appearance 
of  a  feudal  castle.  Close  by  were  some  Indians,  mining  on 
their  own  account ;  for,  even  in  the  refuse  of  the  mill,  sufficient 
silver  can  be  found  to  repay  a  native  for  his  toil.  Formerly  no 
attention  was  bestowed  upon  such  clay,  and  bricks  were  made 
from  it  for  building  purposes.  To-day,  however,  it  is  known 

that  there 
may  be  more 
silver  in  a 
single  house 
wall  than  the 
entire  struc- 
ture is  worth 
as  a  residence. 
Entering  the 
mill,  we  found 
ourselves  in  a 
long,  -  poorly 
lighted  hall, 
filled  with  ap- 
pliances ap- 
parently left 
over  from  the 
sixteenth  cen- 
tury. Each  side  was  lined  with  shallow  bowls  half-filled  with 
water.  In  these  a  certain  amount  of  ore  is  placed,  together  with 
copper  and  sulphate  of  iron ;  and  through  the  semi-liquid  mass 
large  stones  are  dragged  for  hours,  by  wretched  mules,  until  the 
ore  becomes  a  pasty  mixture  looking  like  black  mud.  This  is  then 
taken  to  an  open  courtyard  where  quicksilver  and  other  ingredi- 
ents are  added.  To  mix  these  elements  thoroughly,  mules  are 
made  to  tramp  through  it,  back  and  forth,  for  about  thirty  days, 
until  the  filthy  mass  is  ready  to  be  washed,  strained,  and 


THE    MILL 


256 


MEXICO 


COURT  OF  THE    MILL. 


smelted.  Ex- 
perts declare 
that  twenty 
per  cent,  of 
the  precious 
metal  is  wast- 
ed by  these 
primitive  pro- 
cesses, and 
that  with 
proper  ma- 
chinery the 

work  could  be  far  better  done  in  a  hundredth  part  of  the  time. 

But,  even  with  present  appliances,  the  profits  are  so  large  that 

there  is  little  incentive  for  improvement. 

Before    I    left   the  place,  I   had   the  curiosity   to   examine 

one   of    the   mules,    which    had    for    months    been    tramping 

through  the  mixture.     It  was  a  pitiable  sight.     Its  color  was 

a  ghastly  green,  its   eyes  were  nearly  closed,  exposure  to  the 

mineral  mass  had 

burned   the    hair 

and  some  of  the 

flesh  from  feet  and 

legs,     and     thor- 
oughly   poisoned 

its  whole  system. 

I  do  not  know  of 

any     animals     in 

the    world    more 

worthy     of     pity 

than  the  mules  of 

Guanajuato.  Om- 
nibus horses  lead 

a   life    of    luxury 


THE    SICK    ML'LE. 


MEXICO 


257 


and  ease  compared  with  them.  Not  only  do  these  mules  have 
to  drag,  blindfolded,  for  many  years  their  heavy  burdens  in  the 
treadmills ;  but,  finally,  when  old  and  helpless  they  come  into 
this  courtyard  to  be  killed  gradually  by  the  mineral  poison, 
which  causes  them  to  assume  meantime  the  varied  hues  of 

the  chameleon. 

The  Citadel  of  Guanajuato 
(now  used  as  a  prison)  has  played 
a  prominent 
part  in  Mexican 
history.  Dur- 
ing Mexico's 
war  for  inde- 
pendence, in 
1810,  by  which 
she  sought  to 
free  herself 
from  Spanish 
tyranny,  Gua- 
najuato was  the 
heart  of  the  re- 
bellion and  the 
scene  of  its 

most  desperate  struggles.  Here  the  brave  patriot-priest  Hidalgo 
(in  some  respects  the  Washington  of  Mexico),  having  raised  the 
standard  of  revolt  against  the  Mother  Country,  gave  battle  to  the 
Spanish  army  and  defeated  it.  It  is  true,  this  victory  was  soon 
avenged,  and  eleven  years  rolled  by  before  Hidalgo's  dream  of 
Mexican  freedom  could  come"  to  pass ;  but  finally  it  was  realized, 
notwithstanding  the  heroic  patriot  had  meantime  perished  in  the 
strife,  and  though  upon  a  corner  of  this  citadel  his  head  had 
been  displayed  as  a  ghastly  trophy,  in  the  vain  hope  of  striking 
his  compatriots  with  fear. 

While  walking   through  the  streets  of  Guanajuato,  I   saw 


THE    CITADEL. 


258 


MEXICO 


an  Indian  going  from  house  to  house,  and  offering  for  sale 
a  coffin !  We  sometimes  think  that  the  Mexicans  have  no 
enterprise ;  but,  really,  for  an  undertaker  to  send  out  drum- 
mers to  solicit  trade  was  a  little  beyond  anything  I  had 
ever  met  before.  This  incident  had  a  remarkable  effect  upon 
our  guide. 

"That  reminds  me,"  he  cried,  "we  must  now  ascend  the 
hill  to  the  cemetery." 

"Climb  to  a  graveyard?"   exclaimed  one  member  of  our 

party  scornfully, 
"  not  I,  it  is  too 
hard  work." 

"My  friend," 
replied  the  guide, 
"fear  nothing. 
You  shall  be 
wafted  there,  as 
if  upon  a  cloud. 
We  are  to  ride 
on  burros." 

He  vanished, 
and  a  few  minutes 
later  the  promised 
donkeys  came  in 
sight.  They  had 

a  melancholy  look,  as  if  repeated  visits  to  the  graveyard  depressed 
their  spirits.  All  of  them  had  rough,  unkempt  hair,  and  on  their 
backs  had  been  placed  bags  of  corn-husks,  as  substitutes  for  sad- 
dles. One  donkey  was  distinguished  from  the  rest  by  having  a 
piece  of  rope  for  a  bridle,  but  the  others  were  supposed  to  be 
guided  merely  by  the  rider's  kicks.  So  huge,  however,  were  the 
corn-husk  saddles  that  when  we  mounted  them  our  limbs  looked 
like  the  blades  of  a  tailor's  shears  stretched  to  their  full  extent, 
and  not  a  heel  could  possibly  approach  the  body  of  the  beast 


THE  COFFIN-PEDDLER. 


MEXICO 


259 


DONKEY   RIDING. 


below.  Thus 
seated,  like  dis- 
tended j  umping- 
jacks,  we  rode 
with  shouts  of 
laughter  up  the 
hill,  and  reached 
at  last  a  hollow 
square  entirely 
open  to  the  sky. 
The  walls  sur- 
rounding it, 
which  have  a 
thickness  of 
eight  feet,  were 
honeycombed 
with  pigeonholes 

like   letter-boxes   in    a    post-office.       In   these    receptacles    the 

dead  of  Guanajuato  are  left,  as  books  are  placed  on  shelves, 

one   tier   above   another,  and  when    a    space    is    filled  with    a 

coffin,  the  opening  is  closed   with  a  marble  slab  that  serves 

not    only    for     a 

door,  but  also  for 

a      tombstone. 

Some     of     these 

pigeonholes     are 

bought     outright 

for     a     hundred 

dollars,    but    the 

greater     number 

are  merely  rented 

for     five     years. 

When    the    time 

expires,  the  bones 


- 


THE   CbMETEKY. 


26o 


MEXICO 


AN   OLD  GRAVE-DIGGER. 


are    taken    out,    and   the    space   is 
swept   and   garnished  for   the 
next  comer,  like  a  berth  in 
a  sleeping-car. 

"What  becomes  of 
the  evicted  tenants  ?  "  I 
inquired. 

"  Look     there     and 
see,"  was  the  reply. 

I    turned,    and    saw 
two      well-nigh       naked 
grave-diggers    tossing    up 
skulls     and   bones    from    a 
trench  in  the  enclosure. 

"At  first,"  explained  the 
guide,  "  the  bodies  taken  from  the  walls  are  buried  here ;  but 
even  this  is  only  for  a  little  time.  Five  acres  do  not  constitute 
a  cemetery  large  enough  for  Guanajuato ;  hence,  the  first 
occupants  must 
soon  resign 
their  places 
to  others." 

"What      is 
then    their   des- 
tination ? "  I 
asked. 

"They 
go    down    to 
the      cata- 
combs,"    he 
answered  ; 
"would  you 
like  to   see 
them  ? " 


WAITING    FOR    AN   ENGAGEMENT. 


MEXICO 


261 


I  hesitated.  "  I  will  go  down,"  exclaimed  the  photographer, 
"I  wish  to  see  if  there  is  light  enough  there  for  making 
illustrations." 

Accordingly  he  disappeared.  A  moment  later,  we  heard 
a  cry  of  horror,  and  soon  beheld  his  face  emerge  from  the 
ground,  white  as  a  sheet,  and  with  distended  eyes. 

"  Look  here,"  he  said,  "  I  don't  want  to  stay  down  there 
alone.  You  must  all  keep  me  company." 

"What 
is  it  ?  "  we 
demanded. 

"It  is  in- 
describable," 
murmured 
the  artist, 
"  go  down 
and  see." 

Thus 

urged,  we 
made  our 
way  down 
twenty  steps 
and  entered 
a  long  cor- 
ridor. There 

was  a  general  exclamation  of  astonishment.  Before  us  was  a  crypt 
about  twenty  feet  in  height  and  one  thousand  feet  in  length.  For 
centuries  it  has  served  as  the  receptacle  of  bones  discarded  from 
the  court  above,  till  almost  the"  entire  space  is  now  filled  to  the  roof 
with  skulls,  legs,  arms,  ribs,  hip-joints,  and  shoulder-blades  heaped 
up  from  floor  to  ceiling,  like  corn-cobs  in  a  granary.  Moreover, 
in  the  immediate  foreground,  thirty  or  forty  mummies  have  been 
placed  upright  against  the  wall,  and  look  like  ghastly  sentinels 
guarding  the  chaotic  mass  of  their  companions. 


262 


MEXICO 


The  most  useful  plant  in  Mexico  is  the  Maguey.  "It  is 
a  cactus,"  I  exclaimed,  when  I  first  beheld  it. 

"  It  does  belong  to  the  cactus  family,"  was  the  reply, 
"and  closely  resembles  what  you  call  the  Century  Plant.  In 
Mexico,  however,  it  is  not  allowed  to  bloom;  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, at  flowering  time  the  Mexicans  cut  into  its  nucleus  or 
heart.  The  cavity  thus  formed  is  filled  at  once  with  a  rich, 
liquid  sap,  which  is  a  source  of  enormous  profit  to  the  owner. 

At  this  stage 
of  the  plant'5.. 
development 
a  native  comes 
to  it  several 
times  a  day 
to  do  the 
milking." 

"What  do 
you  mean  by 
'  milking '  a 
plant  ?  "  I 
asked  in  some 
amusement. 

"  I  refer 
to  the  extrac- 
tion of  its 

sap,"  was  the  reply,  "  and  if  you  watch  yonder  native,  you 
will  see  how  it  is  done."  I  turned,  and  saw  an  Indian  thrust 
the  point  of  a  hollow  tube  into  the  cavity  of  the  plant,  and 
suck  the  other  end  with  all  his  might.  His  power?  of  persua- 
sion in  that  line  were  certainly  remarkable,  for  the  sap,  yielding 
to  the  suction,  immediately  filled  the  tube  which  the  Indian 
quickly  emptied  into  a  pig-skin  carried  on  his  back.  "  This 
does  not  seem  to  me  very  appetizing,"  I  said,  "but  it  is 
interesting.  What  next  is  done  with  it  ? " 


MILKING   THE   MAGUEY. 


MEXICO 


265 


"Look  over  there  upon  the  road,"  he  rejoined;  "that  cart, 
the  mules  of  which  are  raising  such  a  dust,  is  loaded  with 
pig-skins  full  of  sap.  They  are  to  be  taken  to  the  farm,  and 
emptied  into  vats,  in  which  the  liquid  will  ferment  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  till  it  becomes  pnlqne  (a  magic  word  in  the  re- 
public), when  it  is  sent  away  to  be  immediately  sold." 

"  Why  '  immediately '?"  I  inquired,  "can  it  not  be  bottled 
up  and  kept  like  lager  beer  ? " 

"  Impossible,"  said  my  companion.  "  It  will  not  remain 
sweet  more 
than  forty- 
eight  hours. 
Moreover,  the 
least  adverse 
ingredient  will 
ruin  it.  An 
overseer,  who 
had  been  dis- 
charged by 
his  employer, 
once  revenged 
himself  by 

throwing  a  few  drops  of  acid  into  his  master's  vat  of  pulque, 
thus  spoiling  what  was  worth  a  thousand  dollars." 

We  climbed  a  little  elevation  and  gazed  upon  the  farm.  It 
was  a  pretty  sight.  For  many  miles  the  fields  looked  like  gi- 
gantic carpets  of  a  terra-cotta  groundwork,  with  the  huge  plants 
as  decorative  figures  on  their  surfaces. 

"  How  much  time  does  ,the  maguey  require  to  ripen  suffi- 
ciently to  give  forth  sap  ?  "  I  asked. 

"About  seven  years,"  was  the  response.  Even  on  reaching 
maturity,  it  furnishes  the  precious  liquid  for  only  about  six 
weeks,  and  then  dies ;  but,  since  another  is  immediately  planted 
in  its  place,  there  is  a  constant  series  of  arrivals  and  departures 


CARTING    PULQUE   TO    MARKET. 


266 


MEXICO 


of  maguey  plants 
on  these  farms, 
like  successive 
classes  gradu- 
ating from,  and 
entering,  a  public 
school. 

The  owner  of 
a  pulque  farm  is 
usually  wealthy ; 
for  the  maguey 
crop  can  be 
counted  on  with 
absolute  certain- 
ty. No  insects  spoil  it,  no  weather  affects 
it,  and  it  can  be  made  to  yield  the  whole  year  round.  Best 
of  all,  the  liquid  is  at  once  disposed  of  at  a  good  price  and  for 
ready  cash.  I  gained  some  conception  of  the  extent  of  the 
business,  when  I  was  told  that  from  this  district  a  long  train, 
loaded  with  nothing  but  pulque,  goes  to  the  City  of  Mexico 
every  morning  throughout  the  entire  year ;  and  that  for  running 
this  train  alone  the  Vera  Cruz  railroad  is  paid  thirty  thousand 
dollars  a  month, 
or  a  thousand 
dollars  a  day. 
One  man  in  the 
City  of  Mexico 
owns  sixty  shops, 
and  sells  twelve 
hundred  dollars' 
worth  of  pulque 
daily.  He  is  sup- 
posed to  make 
a  profit  of  sixty 


HUGE   PLANTS. 


MEXICO 


267 


thousand  dollars  a  year.  A  Mexican  gentleman  told  me  that  his 
father  owned  a  plantation  of  about  ninety  thousand  maguey  plants, 
one-tenth  of  which  reach  maturity  every  year.  From  this  "  small " 
plantation  he  receives  an  income  of  ten  thousand  dollars  annually. 

"  Why  does  not  every  one  go  into  the  pulque  business  ?  "  I 
asked. 

"  More   would  undoubtedly  do  so,"  was  the   answer,  "  but 
(fortunately,  or  unfortunately),  the  district  where  good  pulque 
can  be    produced    is    limited    to    a    small    area,  and  hence  the 
farmers     in 
that  region 
have     a    mo- 
nopoly." 

Personally, 
there  are  few 
things  of 
which  I  am 
so  certain  as 
the  fact  that 
I  would  infi- 
nitely rather 
be  a  producer 
of  pulque 
than  a  con- 

SELLING    PULQUE   AT  THE    RAILWAY    STATION". 

s  u  m  e  r .        I 

never  shall  forget  the  first  glass  of  it  that  I  tasted.  An 
Indian  Hebe  offered  it  to  me  at  a  railway  station,  and  I 
paid  only  a  cent  for  it ;  but  after  one  swallow,  I  considered 
a  penny  an  exorbitant  sum  for  what  I  had  obtained.  In 
color,  consistency,  odor,  and  taste  Mexican  pulque  seemed  to 
me  like  sour  mucilage.  People  assured  me  that  I  would  like 
it  after  a  time.  If  so,  it  will  be  when  "  my  time  has  come." 
Some  travelers,  however,  find  its  taste  agreeable,  and  the 
Mexicans  are  as  fond  of  it  as  negroes  are  of  watermelons. 


268 


MEXICO 


On  awakening,  next  morning,  I  found  that  we  were  side- 
tracked near  an  aqueduct  of  grand  proportions.  I  rubbed  my 
eyes.  "  Where  are  we  ? "  I  exclaimed,  "  in  Rome  ? " 

"  No,"  was  the  answer,  "  but  near  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing cities  of   the  Mexican  republic,  —  Oueretaro,  which  has  a 
population  of  fifty  thousand,  and  is  situated  as  high  above  the 
sea  as  the  summit  of  Mount  Washington." 
"And  this  aqueduct?"    I  demanded. 

"  It  is  the  work  of  the  Spaniards,"  was  the  answer.     "  Built 

here  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years 
ago,  it  still  brings 
to  the  town  de- 
licious water  from 
a  spring  five  miles 
away.  It  makes 
its  entry  over 
seventy-four  of 
these  arches,  the 
highest  being 
ninety-four  feet 
above  the  ground. 
Expensive  ? "  he 
continued,  "  I 
should  say  so.  Its 
cost  was  about  one 

hundred  and  twenty-five  thousand  dollars;  but  of  that  sum  eighty- 
three  thousand  were  contributed  by  one  public-spirited  citizen." 
Leaving  our  car  in  the  shadow  of  the  aqueduct,  we  drove  to 
the  neighboring  city  of  Queretaro.  Its  Plaza  charmed  us  with 
its  wealth  of  palms,  banana  trees,  and  semi-tropical  vegetation. 
It  was  here  that  Maximilian,  during  the  siege  which  terminated 
in  his  death,  was  wont  to  take  his  evening  walk.  Accordingly 
the  place  recalls  one  of  the  most  pathetic  episodes  of  modern 


THE   AQUEDUCT. 


MEXICO 


269 


THE   PLAZ  \    QUERETAKO. 


history.     The  coming  of  Maxi- 
milian to    Mexico   was   not 
like   that   of    Cortez    an 
attempt    at    conquest. 
He  came  at  the  so- 
licitation of  a  Mex- 
ican political  party 
which  he  believed 
to  be  decidedly  in 
the  majority. 

One  day,  in  1863, 
a  dozen  men-of-war 
from  England, 
France,  and  Spain 
entered  the  harbor 
of  Vera  Cruz  to 
obtain  satisfaction  for  their  governments.  Satisfaction  for  what  ? 
Chiefly  for  financial  loans  which  these  European  nations  had  made 
to  Mexico,  and  which  the  Mexican  authorities,  declaring  them- 
selves bankrupt,  had  refused  to  pay.  No  wonder  that  poor  Mexico 
was  bankrupt.  In  forty  years  she  had  passed  through  thirty-six 
changes  of  government,  and  had  had  seventy-three  presidents,  — 
an  average  of 
nearly  two  a 
year.  Distin- 
guished Mex- 
ican represen- 
tatives were, 
therefore, 
pleading  with 
different  Eu- 
ropean powers 
to  come  to  her 
assistance. 


THE   HARBOR   OF   VERA   CRUZ. 


2/0 


MEXICO 


THE  FOl'NTAIN,  QUERETARO. 


One  of  the  sovereigns  to 
whom  an  appeal  was  made  was 
Napoleon  III.  There  is  no 
doubt  that  he  and  others  of  the 
crowned  heads  of  Europe  re- 
ceived the  proposition  eagerly. 
Our  great  republic  was  then 
apparently  in  its  death  agony. 
The  time  was  ripe, 
they  thought,  to 
found  an  empire 
on  the  North 
American  conti- 
nent. Spain  wished 
to  give  to  Mexico 
a  Bourbon  Prince. 
To  this  Napoleon 
III.  would  not  consent,  but  (willing  to  renounce  French  claims) 
agreed  to  accept  an  Archduke  from  the  house  of  Austria,  — 
Maximilian.  He  was  a  man  of  noble  character  and  lofty 
principles.  Within  his  veins  flowed  royal  blood,  distinctly 
traceable  through  six  hundred  years.  He  was  accomplished, 
spoke  six  lan- 
guages, and  had 
a  gentle  dis- 
position, which 
attracted  all  with 
whom  he  came 
in  contact.  This 
Prince,  in  April, 
1864,  having  re- 
nounced his  rights 
to  the  throne  of 
Austria,  sailed 


MAXIMILIAN  S   THRONE. 


MEXICO 


271 


with  his  wife,  Carlotta,  for  the  land  where  they  aspired  to  found 
a  new  and  glorious  dynasty.  They  were  both  young ;  he  was 
but  thirty-two,  and  she  only  twenty-four  years  old.  The  pros- 
pect was  alluring.  Napoleon  III.  had  pledged  his  army  and  his 
treasury  to  keep  them  on  the  throne ;  and  they  looked  forward 
to  the  time  when  Mexico,  reclaimed  from  anarchy,  would,  under 
their  beneficent  sway,  assume  her  place  among  the  nations  of 
the  earth,  —  a  close  ally  and  protege  si  the  Old  World. 


THE    BRIDGE 


Remembering  these  facts,  we  left  the  Plaza  of  Queretaro 
and  approached  a  picturesque  stone  bridge  upon  the  out- 
skirts of  the  town.  "This-,"  said  the  Mexican  colonel  who 
was  our  guide,  "was  the  last  point  yielded  by  the  imperial 
army.  When  this  was  taken  by  our  troops,  no  hope 
remained  for  Maximilian."  Napoleon  III.  (alarmed  at  the 
decisive  action  of  the  United  States),  had  heeded  Secretary 
Seward's  warning  and  withdrawn  his  troops,  and,  thus 


2/2 


MEXICO 


deserted,  the  Conservative  party,  which  had  enthusiastically 
welcomed  Maximilian,  was  now  unable  to  withstand  the  Lib- 
erals under  President  Juarez.  It  was  unfortunate  that  Maxi- 
milian remained  in  Mexico.  He  should  have  abdicated,  and 
returned  to  Europe  with  Napoleon's  troops ;  but  certain 
motives,  which  we  must  admire,  still  detained  him.  Aside 
from  an  unwillingness  to  give  up  and  confess  an  ignomini- 
ous failure,  he  wished,  if  possible,  to  save  from  vengeance 
the  men  whose  cause  he  had  espoused  and  who  were  cling- 
ing to  his  fortunes.  Their  doom,  however,  like  his  own  was 
rapidly  approaching.  The  old  Convent  of  Queretaro,  known 
as  La  Cruz,  was  the  last  retreat  and  stronghold  of  the 
Emperor.  It  was  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  when  Maxi- 
milian's bosom  friend  and  trusted  officer,  General  Lopez, 
having  resolved  to  play  the  part  of  Judas,  proceeded  silently 
through  the  dark  streets  to  a  small  opening  in  the  city 
wall,  where  he  conferred  with  the  republican  commander. 
A  plan  of  action  was  agreed  upon,  and  so  adroitly  was  it 
carried  out  that,  two  hours  later,  Queretaro  and  Maximilian 
v/ere  captured  by  the  Liberals. 


MEXICO 


273 


About  a  mile  beyond  the 
city  walls  is  a  little  eminence 
called  the  Hill  of  the  Bells.  Hither, 
at  seven  o'clock,  on  the  morning  of  the  iQth  of  June,  1867,  were 
brought  the  three  distinguished  prisoners  who  had  been  con- 
demned to  die,  —  the  Emperor  Maximilian  and  his  leading  gen- 
erals, Miramon  and  Mejia.  Three  stone  posts  mark  the  places 
where  they  stood.  Stationed  at  a  little  distance  from  them  were 
three  thousand  soldiers.  On  arriving,  Maximilian  stepped  from 
his  carriage  and  handed  to  a  servant  his  hat  and  handkerchief, 
which  he  requested  should  be  given  to  his  mother  and  brother. 
Are  we  surprised  that  he  left  nothing  for  Carlotta,  the  wife  whom 
he  so  dearly  loved  ?  It  was  because  he  had  been  told  (no  doubt 
to  make  his  death  the  easier  to  bear)  that  she  was  dead.  If  he 
had  known  the  truth  !  In  reality,  poor  Carlotta,  who  had  gone 
to  Europe  in  the  vain  hope  of  gaining  some  assistance  for  her 
husband,  had,  through  her  terrible  anxiety  and  disappointment, 


274  MEXICO 

become  hopelessly  insane.  At  length  the  Emperor  turned  and 
looked  upon  the  seven  men  chosen  to  be  his  executioners.  "Poor 
fellows !  "  he  murmured,  "  they  have  an  unpleasant  duty  before 
them."  Then,  drawing  from  his  pocket  seven  twenty-dollar 
gold  pieces,  stamped  with  his  inscription,  he  gave  them  to  tho 
officer  in  command  to  be  presented  to  the  soldiers  when  he 
was  no  more.  "  My  friends,"  he  said  (pointing  to  his  breast) 
"be  good  enough  to  spare  my  face  and  aim  directly  here." 
Then,  looking  about  him  on  the  lovely  landscape,  he  exclaimed  : 
"  What  a  beautiful  day !  It  is  on  such  a  day  as  this  that  I 
have  always  wished  to  die." 


THE   SQUAD   OF   SOLDIERS. 


The  men  who  here  awaited  death  were  of  different  nation- 
alities and  each,  unconsciously,  at  this  impressive  moment 
showed  the  characteristics  of  his  race.  Mejia  was  an  Indian, 
and  stood  with  the  composure  of  a  fatalist,  sadly  but  uncom- 
plainingly accepting  the  decree  of  destiny.  Miramon  was  of 
Franco-Spanish  origin,  and  brilliant  and  audacious  jested  to  the 
last.  The  Emperor,  with  the  well-known  temperament  of  the 
house  of  Austria,  faced  death  with  dignity  like  his  ancestor, 
Marie  Antoinette.  His  first  position  was  in  the  centre  of  the 
group,  but  at  the  last  moment  it  was  changed.  Miramon,  who 


MEXICO 


277 


was  at  the  Emperor's  left,  turning  toward  Maximilian  had 
laughingly  exclaimed,  "You  see  that  in  this  tragedy  I  am  in 
the  position  of  the  impenitent  thief."  The  Emperor  answered 
gravely :  "  Permit  me,  then,  to  yield  this  place  to  you.  A  brave 
man  like  yourself  deserves  it."  Thus  speaking,  he  stepped  quickly 
to  the  left,  leaving  Miramon  in  the  centre  ;  and  it  was  where  the 
stone  post  at  the  extreme  right  stands  that  Maximilian  fell. 

Returning  from  this  mournful  spot  we  saw,  in  the  gov- 
ernor's palace  at  Queretaro, 
the  plain  pine  coffin  in  which 
Maximilian's  body  was 
brought  back  from  execution. 
It  is  in  places  deeply  stained 
with  blood.  Not  long,  how- 
ever, did  his  lifeless  form  re- 
main in  Mexico.  A  few 
months  later,  by  permission 
of  the  Mexican  Government, 
the  body  was  taken  to  Vera 
Cruz,  and  the  same  vessel 
which,  three  years  before,  had 
brought  Maximilian  and  Car- 
lotta  to  the  New  World  in 


THE   COFFIN. 


perfect  health  and  with   the 

brightest    anticipations,    took 

back  his  mutilated  form  to  Austria.     Still  more  pathetic  is  the 

fact  that  the  widowed  Empress  still  lives,  crazed  with  grief,  a 

wreck  upon  the  cruel  ocean  of  existence. 

Saying  farewell  to  Queretaro  with  some  reluctance,  on  the 
following  evening  we  left  the  railroad  at  a  station  called  El 
Castillo.  Our  purpose  was  to  visit  the  Falls  of  Juanacatlan, 
sometimes  enthusiastically  styled  the  "Mexican  Niagara." 
Upon  the  platform  stood  a  gentleman  who  was  presented  to  us 
under  the  euphonious  name  of  Senor  Bermejillo.  His  home 


MEXICO 


is  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  but  his  estate  at  El  Castillo  is  so  vast, 
that,  from  the  moment  we  arrived  until  we  left,  every  point 
of  land  on  which  we  stood,  and  almost  everything  we  saw,  was 
his  property.  In  fact,  he  has  constructed  between  the  station 
and  the  falls  a  private  tramway,  by  which  in  twenty  minutes 
we  reached  a  place  where  we  beheld  in  their  majestic  beauty 
the  Falls  of  Juanacatlan.  The  river  Lerma  (the  largest  stream 
in  Mexico)  here  falls  seventy  feet  in  one  grand  mass  of  creamy 

foam,  six  hun- 
dred feet  in 
breadth.  Of 
course  this 
cannot  seri- 
ou  sly  be 
ranked  with 
the  stupen- 
dous volume 
of  Niagara, 
yet  at  a  glance 
one  sees  a  re- 
semblance to 
it.  It  is,  in 
fact,  Niagara 
in  miniature, 
—  a  diamond 

edition  of  the  Horseshoe  Falls ;  or,  as  it  were,  Niagara  itself  seen 
through  the  large  end  of  an  opera-glass.  We  stood  for  a  long  time 
beside  this  falling  river,  delighted  with  its  cool,  refreshing  spray 
and  its  unceasing  rush  and  roar.  No  doubt  its  beauty  appealed  to 
us  with  added  force  because  of  the  comparative  rarity  of  waterfalls 
in  Mexico.  What  I  most  missed  and  longed  for  during  our  Mex- 
ican tour  was  running  water,  especially  as  only  a  few  months  be- 
fore I  had  been  traveling  in  Norway,  which  is  preeminently,  of 
all  the  countries  of  the  world,  the  land  of  cataracts  and  cascades. 


FALLS   OF  JUANACATLAN. 


MEXICO 


279 


CITY   OF   MEXICO. 


It  was 
seven  o'clock 
in  the  even- 
ing when  our 
train  arrived 
in  the  City  of 
Mexico.  A 
friend  who 
had  been  no- 
tified of  our 
arrival  met  us 
on  the  plat- 
form. 

"  You  are 
in  luck,"  he 

cried,  "  there  is  to  be  a  splendid  ball  at  the   Jockey  Club  to- 
night.    I  have  secured  a  ticket  for  you,  and  you  must  go." 

"  What !  after  ten  days'  constant  travel  ?  "  I  replied.  "  No, 
no,  I  am  too  tired."  "  But  to-morrow  you  can  rest."  "I  have 
not  time  now  to  get  ready."  "You  need  not  go  till  midnight." 
"  My  dress  suit  is  at  the  bottom  of  my  trunk."  "  I  will  unpack 

it  for  you." 
"I  do  not 
know  the 
way."  "I  will 
call  for  you 
in  my  carriage. 
Besides,"  he 
added,  "you 
will  have  a 
chance  to  see 
our  prettiest 
senoritas  and 
our  President." 


THE    RAILROAD   STATION. 


280 


MEXICO 


Some  hours  later,  I  found  myself  riding  through  the  city. 
It  was  the  hottest  season  of  the  year,  yet  both  my  comrade 
and  myself  were  comfortable  in  light  overcoats.  Through 
the  cab  windows  I  could  see  block  after  block  of  buildings 
standing  ghostlike  in  the  silvery  moonlight.  Enormous 
windows,  iron 
gratings,  and 
frequently  in 
front  of  them 
a  line  of  donkeys 
driven  by  swarthy 
Indians,  suc- 
ceeded one  an- 
other in  a  weird 
monotony.  Two 


STREET    WITH    BURROS. 

or  three  times 
my  comrade 
pointed  out  a 
souvenir  of  his- 
tory. 

"Along  this 
street,"  he  said, 
"Cortez  retreated 
from  the  Aztec  capital.  Just  here  his  leading  general, 
Alvarado,  made  his  famous  leap  for  life,  and  this,"  he  added, 
"was  the  residence  of  Marshal  Bazaine  during  the  French 
occupation  under  Maximilian." 

"  Stop  a  moment,"  I  said,  and  leaning  forward  I  surveyed 
the  former  dwelling  of  the  man  whose  cruelties  contributed  so 


A    MEXICAN   CAB. 


MEXICO 


281 


THE   ALAMEDA. 


much   to   Maximilian's  downfall, 
and    who,    on    his    return    to 
France,  betrayed  his  coun- 
try by  surrendering  Metz 
to  the  Prussians,  and, 
consequently,   died   a 
wretched  exile  in   a 
foreign  land.    Never- 
theless,   in    looking 
at   these    structures, 
I    did    not    seem    to 
realize  where  I  was  ; 
for,     though      accus- 
tomed to  unlooked-for 
incidents  in  travel,   I 
had    never    made    so 
strange  an  entry  into 

a  foreign  city,  when,  four  hours  after  my  arrival,  I  drove 
through  moonlit  streets  with  a  comparative  stranger  to  a  ball, 
and  on  the  way  beheld  the  forms  of  dusky  Indians  crouch- 
ing in  their  blankets,  and  gazed  on  buildings  dating  from 
the  days  of  Cortez.  At  .  last  we  reached  the  mansion  of  the 

I   J 

Jockey      Club,  —  a      handsome 
structure  covered  with  glazed 
tiles. 

This  singular  decoration 
owes  its  origin  to  caprice. 
The  Mexi- 
cans, to  ex- 
emplify an 
almost  in  cred- 
ible climax  of 
extravagance, 
are  wont  to 


THE   JOCKEY    CLUB. 


282 


MEXICO 


say,  "  He  never  will  build  a  house  of  tiles."  Some  years  ago, 
however,  one  of  the  gilded  youth  of  Mexico  resolved  to  prove 
that  such  display  was  not  impossible,  and  built  a  house  which  is 
enameled  from  roof  to  pavement  with  blue  tiles.  This,  when  I 
saw  it  on  the  night  of  my  arrival,  was  gay  with  lights,  and  dif- 
fused its  radiance  through  the  darkness  like  a  porcelain  lamp. 
Alighting  from  the  carriage,  we  entered  the  mansion  which 


COURTYARD   OF   J"CKEY    CLt'B. 

was  thronged  with  guests.  Around  its  spacious  courtyard 
tropic  plants  formed  fragrant  walls  of  foliage  and  flowers  ;  and 
over  and  around  these  banks  of  color  floated  soft  music  from 
an  unseen  orchestra.  Meantime,  in  the  rooms  above,  the  music 
of  a  second  orchestra  invited  all  to  join  in  dancing,  the  pastime 
in  which  Mexicans  excel. 

At  length  my  comrade  led  me  to  a  room  apart  and  said, 
"  Allow  me  to  present  you  to  the  honored  chief  of  our  republic, 


MEXICO 


283 


PRESIDENT   DIAZ. 


President  Diaz."  I  saw 
before  me  a  tall,  dignified 
man  about  fifty  years  of  age. 
Although  attired  in  civilian's 
dress,  a  glance  would  have 
assured  me  he  had  been  a 
soldier.  His  manner  was 
extremely  courteous  ;  but  I 
could  not  forget,  even  amid 
these  fashionable  surround- 
ings, that  I  was  in  the  pres- 
ence of  a  man  accustomed 
to  command  and  able  to 
maintain  his  power  against 
desperate  odds.  Porfirio 
Diaz  is  not  only  a  brave  soldier,  and  the  best  ruler  Mexico  has 

J 

ever  had;  he  is,  besides,  an  able  statesman,  who  has  encouraged 
the  building  of  railroads,  promoted  agricultural  enterprises,  and 
established  friendly  intercourse  with  other  nations.  At  the  same 

time,  he  has  shown 
wonderful  ability 
and  tact  in  quiet- 
ing and  strength- 
ening his  own 
land,  previously 
torn  by  frequent 
revolutions.  On 
coming  into 
power,  instead  of 
banishing  or 
shooting  his  op- 
ponents, he  won 
them  over  to  his 
side.  Thus,  he 


THE    PRIVATE    RESIDENCE   OF    PRESIDENT   DIAZ. 


284 


MEXICO 


would  send  for  a  man  who  had  been  a  captain  in  some  revolu- 
tionary faction,  and  would  say  to  him :  "  My  friend,  you  see  you 
are  defeated.  I  have  the  power  now  and  mean  to  keep  it ;  but 
far  from  wishing  to  be  rid  of  you,  I  need  just  such  brave  men  as 
you  to  help  my  administration.  Let  us  be  friends.  You  are  a 
captain  now  ;  henceforth,  in  my  army,  be  a  colonel."  This 
shrewd,  conciliatory  course  proved  remarkably  successful,  and 
the  former  enemies  of  Diaz  are  now  his  friends. 

The  morning  after  the  ball  I  started  out  with  my  compan- 
ions to  see  the 
City  of  Mexico 
by  daylight, 
and  we  drove 
immediately  to 
the  Plaza  May- 
or, or  Great 
Square,  which 
occupies  the 
centre  of  the 
capital.  Before 
us,  on  one  side, 
rose  the  cathe- 
dral, which 
from  a  distance 
had  appeared 
to  be  well  pro- 
portioned, while  its  fine  towers  had  won  our  admiration.  The 
site  of  the  building  is  historic ;  for,  on  the  spot  where  now  its 
gilded  crosses  rise  toward  heaven,  stood  formerly  the  grandest 
temple  of  the  Montezumas,  so  that  the  foundation  of  this 
Christian  church  rests  on  the  broken  images  of  Aztec  gods. 
We  climbed  to  one  of  its  belfries  and  gazed  upon  the  scene 
below.  Directly  at  our  feet  lay  the  Plaza  Mayor,  which  four 
hundred  years  ago  was  an  open  space  before  the  Aztec  temple. 


THE   CATHEDKAL. 


MEXICO 


285 


THE    NATIONAL   PALACE. 


This  square  was 
then  the  nucleus 
of  the  city's  life 
and  around  it 
were  its  finest 
buildings.  A  Ro- 
man would  have 
called  it  the  Aztec 
Forum.  The  resi- 
dence of  Monte- 
zuma  has  been 
replaced,  on  the 
same  site,  by  the 
National  Palace, 
where  all  the  dif- 
ferent govern- 
ments  with  which  poor  Mexico  has  been  blessed  or  cursed,  for 
centuries,  have  for  a  time  had  their  headquarters.  At  present 
it  contains  the  official  apartments  of  President  Diaz  and  many 
of  the  State  Departments. 

Descending  from  the  belfry  we  entered  the  cathedral.      Its 
grand  dimensions  are  imposing,  for   the  vast    structure  has  a 

length  of  nearly 
four  hundred  feet. 
Formerly,  too,  if 
we  can  credit 
what  the  Span- 
iards say  of  it,  the 
richness  of  its 
decoration  rivaled 
that  of  any  other 
in  the  world  ;  but 
most  of  that  mag- 
nificence has  dis- 


THE   CHAMBER   OF   DEPUTIES. 


286 


MEXICO 


THE   INTERIOR   OF   THE   CATHEDRAL. 


appeared,  and 
what  remains 
cannot  atone 
for  many  se- 
rious blem- 
ishes. Thus, 
for  a  church 
like  this  to 
have  a  wood- 
en floor  is 
painfully  in- 
congruous; 
and  stuccoed 
walls,  how- 
ever large, 

cannot  command  our  admiration  like  statue-crowned  and  exqui- 
sitely sculptured  stone.  Its  chapels,  it  is  true,  contain  a  vast  amount 
of  gilded  ornamentation  ;  but  iron  gratings  tipped  with  gold-leaf 
are  not  to  be  compared  with  the  elaborately  carved  woodwork  that 
we  see  in  Spain,  or  with  the  balustrades  of  malachite  and  porphyry 
which  we  find  in  Russia  ;  while  the  majority  of  statues  in  all  Mexi- 
can churches  are  merely  plaster,  colored  as  brilliantly  as  chromos. 
The  hotel  in  the  City  of  Mexico  best  known  to  travelers  was 
formerly  the  palace  of  the  short-lived  Emperor,  Iturbide,  whose 
name  it  bears.  It  looks  palatial  still.  It  has  a  height  rarely 
attained  by  Mexican  houses  ;  electric  lights  suspended  from  the 
roof  give  to  its  shadowy  corridors  the  effect  of  moonlight ;  and, 
most  astonishing  of  all,  an  elevator  (the  only  one  in  the  re- 
public in  1892)  ascends  serenely  to  the  upper  story.  But  from 
these  brilliant  externals  the  tourist  must  not  expect  too  much 
from  the  Hotel  Iturbide.  Its  proprietor  has  not  fully  recovered 
from  the  attack  of  self-esteem  which  the  acquisition  of  the 
elevator  gave  him.  He  sits  and  looks  at  it,  like  a  mother 
gazing  on  her  first-born ;  and  as  the  stewards  on  a  certain  line 


MEXICO 


289 


of  trans-Atlantic  steamers  say,  "  Our  table  is  poor,  but  we  have 
never  lost  a  life,"  so  the  proprietor  of  the  Iturbide  blandly 
answers  all  complaints  by  proudly  pointing  toward  his  elevator, 
which,  by  the  way,  is  allowed  to  run  only  between  the  hours  of 
ten  in  the  morning  and  ten  at  night ! 

The  agent  of  an  American  excursion  party  once  applied 
to  the  manager  of  the  Iturbide  for  accommodations.  "  How 
much  are  these  rooms  a  day  ?  "  he  asked.  "  Four  dollars  each," 
was  the  reply.  "  But,"  said  the  agent  smiling,  "  I  shall  probably 
bring  you  eighty  people,  how  much  then  ? "  "  Five  dollars," 
said  the  proprietor,  yawning  ;  "  that  will  make  more  trouble." 

One  day  as  I  was  strolling  about  the  city,  I  noticed,  on  the 
upper  story  of  a  house,  a  bunch  of  newspapers  tied  with  a 
string  to  the  iron  grating  of  a  window.  "  What  does  that 
mean?"  I  asked. 

"  It  is  the  recognized  sign,"  was  the  reply,  "  that  rooms  are 
to  rent  there." 


THE   HOTEL  IT'JRBIDE. 


290 


MEXICO 


"  What !  "  I  exclaimed,  "  is  it  possible  that,  to  avoid  the 
expense  of  printing  placards,  it  is  the  custom  here  to  tie  news- 
papers about  a  railing  when  one  wishes  to  let  rooms  ?  " 

"  Precisely  so,"  answered  my  informant,  "and  when  a  news- 
paper cannot  be  had,  a  bit  of  wrapping-paper  answers  the  same 

purpose." 

Not  far 
from  this,  my 
companion 
pointed  out  to 
me  another 
private  resi- 
dence, and 
said,  "Beneath 
that  corner 
window,  for 
six  months, 
regularly  ev- 
ery night,  I 
saw  a  faith- 
ful lover  'play- 
ing the  bear.'" 
"  Playing 
the  bear  !  "  I 
echoed,  "do 
you  refer  to 
the  hugs  which  bears  are  wont  to  give  their  victims  ? " 

"  Oh,  no  !"  was  the  reply,  "  the  Mexican  lover  plays  the  part 
of  Bruin  in  a  cage.  That  is  to  say,  at  a  fixed  hour  each  day  he 
saunters  up  and  down  the  sidewalk  near  his  loved  one's  house, 
gazes  with  rapture  at  her  window,  and  puts  his  hand  discreetly 
on  his  heart.  Meantime  he  is  being  critically  examined  (no 
doubt  through  opera-glasses),  not  only  by  the  young  lady  her- 
self, but  by  all  the  other  members  of  her  family.  After  this 


A    MEXICAN    HOUSE. 


MKXICO 


291 


THE    HOUSE   OF   THE    BEAR. 


dull  business 

has    dragged 

on  for  several 

weeks,    the 

bear  gets  bold 

enough     to 

write  a  note, 

and,    holding 

it  in  his  paw, 

allows     his 

lady    love    to 

see     it    from 

a   distance. 

That  night 

she  intercepts 

the  servant 

and    obtains   it.      Most    probably,    however,    the   note    is   read 

to  her  mamma  and  answered,   if  at  all,   at  her  dictation.     At 

length  the  father  appears  upon  the  scene  and  makes  inquiries 

into  the  habits  of  the  bear,  asking  particularly  how  large  an 

amount  of  honey  he  extracts  from  some  commercial  beehive ! 

If  a  bear  market 
prevails,  the  lover 
is  accepted.  If 
not,  he  is  warned 
off  the  premises." 
Meanwhile,  dur- 
ing the  period  of 
courtship,  if  the 
gratings  which 
exclude  the  bear 
are  on  the  lower 
story,  the  lovers 
are  fortunate  in- 


MEXICO 


deed ;  for,  though  the  advances  made  by  Bruin  are  not  rapid,  as 
an  accepted  suitor  he  is  allowed  to  cross  the  street  and  talk  with 
his  inamorata  through  the  bars.  There  he  will  offer  her  sweet- 
meats, and  may  sometimes  hold  her  hand ;  occasionally,  he  will 
even  press  it  to  his  lips ;  and,  possibly,  if  the  space  be  wide 
enough,  —  alas  !  what  will  not  lovers  do  in  such  a  case  from  the 
days  of  Pyramus  and  Thisbe,  to  our  own  ?  When  the  bars  are 
on  the  second  story,  the  wretched  lover  (forced  by  necessity  to 
be  inventive)  induces  some  kind  friend  to  lend  his  shoulders  as 
a  ladder,  and  even  to  play  the  guitar,  so  that  the  lady  has  the 
double  pleasure  of  conversing  with  her  fiance  and  listening  to  a 
serenade.  Sometimes,  however,  the  serenader's  back  suddenly 
gives  way,  and  Romeo  unceremoniously  drops  from  heaven 
to  earth.  Even  when  formally  admitted  to  the  house,  the  lover 
sees  the  lady  only  before  others,  until  at  last  the  marriage  cere- 

^^  mony  takes 
place,  and  he 
secures  an  op- 
portunity to 
test  the  value 
of  the  Russian 
proverb  ^'Be- 
fore going  to 
war,  pray 
once  ;  before 
going  to  sea, 
pray  twice ; 
before  going 
to  get  mar- 
ried, pray 
three  times." 
Excellent 
time  is  made 
on  the  tram- 


PATIO   OF   PRIVATE    HOUSE. 


MEXICO 


293 


TRAM-CARS. 


ways  in  the  City  of 
Mexico.  Some  of  the 
cars  are  furnished 
with  a  sign  requesting 
passengers  not  to 
cause  delay  by  mak- 
ing their  farewells 
too  long!  This  is, 
however,  a  necessary 
rule,  for  these  affec- 
tionate people  kiss 
repeatedly,  and  pat 
each  other  caressingly 

on  the  back,  as  they  meet  and  part.  Frequently,  too,  they  daintily 
gather  into  a  group  the  finger-tips  of  the  right  hand,  press  them 
an  instant  to  the  lips,  and  then  expand  them,  like  the  opening 
of  a  tiny  umbrella,  blowing  meantime  upon  the  unfolding 
fingers  as  if  to  waft  five  kisses  to  the  loved  one. 

Walking  one  day  through  the  Mexican  capital,  I  turned  the 
corner  of  a  street  and  stopped  in  astonishment  at  the  sight 
before  me.  It  was  a  tram-car  drawn  by  four  black  horses,  and 
adorned  with  wreaths  of  flowers  and  a  tall  black  cross.  More- 
over, the  sides  were  open,  and  on  a  platform  in  the  centre  a 
coffin  was  distinctly  visible.  This  seemed  to  me  the  most 
extraordinary  way 
in  which  to  utilize 
a  horse-car  track 
that  I  had  ever 
seen.  I  doubt  if 
there  is  anything 
like  it  in  the 
world,  outside  of 
Mexico ;  but  here 
the  tram-car  com- 


A    FIRST-CLASS    FUNERAL  CAR. 


294 


MEXICO 


A   SECOND-CLASS    FUNERAL   CAR 


panics  are  pre- 
pared to  furnish 
hearses  at  all 
prices,  from  richly 
decorated  vehicles 
drawn  by  horses 
to  very  plain  cars 
drawn  by  mules. 
The  great  objec- 
tion to  these  tram- 
car  funerals  is  not, 
as  might  be  sup- 
posed, their  lack 
of  privacy  (for 
the  blinds  and 
doors  of  the  cars  can  be  tightly  closed),  but  the  rapidity  with 
which  the  funeral  trains  are  run  in  order  to  clear  the  tracks  for 
regular  traffic.  In  the  cheaper  grades  of  funerals  the  small 
black  mules  are  driven  wildly  through  the  streets,  and  they  rush 
around  the  corners  at 
full  gallop,  presenting 
an  astonishing  combi- 
nation of  "the  quick 
and  the  dea"d." 

One  of  the  most 
interesting  buildings 
in  the  city  is  the  Na- 
tional Museum,  which 
contains  valuable  rel- 
ics of  the  Aztec  race. 
The  first  of  these 
to  attract  my  notice 
was  a  circular  mono- 
lith of  porphyry,  three 


THE    ENTRANCE   TO   THE   NATIONAL   MUSEUM. 


MEXICO 


295 


feet  thick,  twelve  feet  in  height,  and  weighing  twenty-six  tons. 
Inscriptions  prove  that  this  was  brought  from  the  quarry  to 
the  Aztec  capital  four  hundred  years  ago.  The  block  itself  is 
remarkable,  but  more  wonderful  still  is  the  clear  proof  which  its 
elaborate  carvings  give  of  Aztec  civilization  and  enlightenment. 
This  was  their  Calendar  Stone  on  which  a  figure,  carved  in 
the  centre,  indicated  the  sun,  while  those  which  encircle  it  sym- 
bolized the  months  and  days  of  the  Aztec  year,  which  was 
divided  into  eighteen  months  of  twenty 


days  each,   with  five  complementary 
days  added  so  as  to  make  three 
hundred  and  sixty-five  ;  and  once      ^ 
in  fifty  years  they    are  said  to 
have    allowed    for   the    loss    of 
minutes  in  their  reckoning. 

Nevertheless,  the  Aztecs 
were  a  curious  combination  of 
intelligence  and  barbarism.  Close 
beside  this  intricate  sun  calendar, 
for  example,  stands  a  hideous  idol 
nine  feet  high.  It  is  the  image 
of  their  God  of  War,  and  was 
the  principal  object  pointed  out 
to  Cortez  by  Montezuma  when 
he  revealed  to  him  the  Aztec  temple.  It  was  then  covered 
with  gold  ornaments  and  jewels,  and  on  the  ground  before 
it  was  a  pan  of  incense  containing  several  human  hearts,  since 
to  this  horrible  deity  thousands  of  lives  were  annually  offered. 
The  number  of  these  victims  seems  incredible.  It  is  supposed 
that  the  yearly  sacrifices  throughout  the  Aztec  empire  numbered 
no  less  than  twenty  thousand ;  but  reduce  that  estimate  even 
one-half,  and  the  result  is  appalling. 

Remembering  these  facts,  we  shuddered  as  we  looked  upon 
the  Sacrificial  Stone  which  is,  perhaps,  the  most  horrible  sou- 


296 


MEXICO 


venir  of  priestly  power  and  human  cruelty  that  the  world  con- 
tains. It  once  stood  on  the  summit  of  the  Aztec  temple  which 
was,  as  usual,  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid.  There,  in  the  presence 
of  the  God  of  War,  and  altars  never  left  without  their  sacred 
fire,  rose  this  mysterious  block  of  sacrifice.  It  is  a  solid  mass 
of  polished  porphyry,  nine  feet  in  diameter  and  three  feet  high, 
with  top  and  sides  profusely  carved  with  likenesses  of  kings, 
and  signs  whose  meaning  is  not  clearly  known ;  but  one  sad 
fact  is  plain  enough.  In  the  centre  of  the  block 
is  a  skull-shaped  cavity,  from  which  extends  a 
channel  to  the  outer  edge.  Within  that  cavity 
the  victim's  head  was  placed  as  he  lay  out- 
stretched upon  the  stone.  Five  priests  then 
held  his  head  and  limbs,  while  a  sixth, 
arrayed  in  scarlet  robes,  cut  open  the  vic- 
tim's breast  with  a  sharp,  razor-like  instru- 
ment, and  drew  forth  the  still  warm  and 
quivering  heart.  This  he  at  first  held  up  in 
triumph,  then  laid  it  down  before  the  statue 
i  of  the  god,  while  thousands  in  the  square 
beneath  bowed  low  in  fear  and  adoration. 
Meantime,  down  the  deep  channel  chiseled 
in  the  stone  flowed  a  red  stream  of  sacrificial 
blood,  a  terrible  libation  to  the  angry 
deity.  It  is  said  that  twelve  thousand 
prisoners  were  sacrificed  upon  this  block, 
at  its  dedication,  in  1510. 

On  leaving  the  Museum,  we  made  our  way  to  a  charitable 
institution  called  the  Hospital  of  Jesus,  —  a  building  founded 
by  Cortez  on  the  very  spot  where  Montezuma  for  the  first  time 
grasped  the  Spaniard's  hand,  and  bade  him  welcome  to  his 
capital.  It  is  worth  remembering,  in  these  days  of  will-break- 
ing, that  this  old  hospital  is  still  maintained  by  the  endowment 
bequeathed  to  it  by  the  Conqueror,  in  spite  of  many  attempts 


AZTEC    IDOL. 


THE   SACRIFICIAL   STONE   AND  IDOL. 


MEXICO 


299 


by  governments  and  private  individuals  to  annul  the  legacy. 
Reflecting  on  the  sad  events  which  quickly  followed  the  meet- 
ing here  of  Cortez  and  the  Aztec  king,  we  climbed  a  stairway 
to  the  second  story  of  the  building,  and  gazed  upon  the  only 
authentic  painting  of  Hernando  Cortez  which  exists  in  Mexico. 
It  is  not  much  to  look  at  as  a  work  of  art,  but  it  affords  abun- 
dant food  for  thought,  as  one  surveys  those  resolute  features, 
in  the  very  building  founded  by  him  centuries  ago.  With  all 


THE    HOSPITAL   OF   JESUS. 


his  faults  and  cruelties,  what  energy  and  courage  he  possessed, 
what  insight  into  human  nature,  and  what  a  firm,  indomitable 
will !  The  story  of  the  Conquest  reads  like  a  romance.  Though 
he  had  only  a  few  hundred  men,  in  two  weeks  after  entering 
the  Aztec  capital  Cortez  had  caused  the  sovereign,  Montezuma, 
to  be  seized  and  held  a  prisoner,  had  captured  the  Aztec  treas- 
ury, valued  at  six  and  a  half  million  dollars,  and  had  ordered 
many  of  Montezuma's  ministers,  who  had  counseled  opposition 


300 


MEXICO 


THE    PAINTING   OF   CORTEZ. 


to  the  invaders,  to  be 
burned  to  death.  A  few 
weeks  later  the  broken- 
hearted Montezuma  also 
died,  despised  by  those 
who  had  formerly  trem- 
bled at  his  glance. 

We  saw  in  the  hos- 
pital the  standard  which 
the  followers  of  Cortez 
bore  through  many  des- 
perate conflicts.  Over 
what  dreadful  scenes  of 
carnage  has  this  banner 
floated  !  For  the  Aztec 
nation  was  not  easily 
subdued.  The  armor  of 
the  Spaniards,  and  the 

sight  for  the  first  time  of  horses  and  cannon,  took  them  by  sur- 
prise ;  but  when  the  invaders  tried  to  burn  their  temples,  and 
offered  violence  to  their 
gods,  the  Aztec's  na- 
tional pride  was  touched 
beyond  all  power  of  con- 
trol, and  they  arose  en 
masse  to  rescue  their 
country  from  invasion 
and  their  shrines  from 
sacrilege.  They  were 
content  to  lose  a  thou- 
sand lives  from  their 
own  ranks,  if  they  could 
shed  the  blood  of  a 
single  Spaniard.  "  The 


THE    SACRED    BANNER. 


MEXICO 


301 


only  trouble  is,"  they 
proudly  said,  "there 
are  too  few  of  you  to 
glut  the  vengeance  of 
our  gods !  " 

A  mile  or  two 
outside  the  city  stands 
a  venerable  cedar, 
known  by  the  name 
of  La  Noche  Triste, 
or  "The  Mournful 
Night."  It  was  under 
this  tree,  on  the  event- 
ful evening  when  the 
Spaniards  retreated 
from  the  city,  that 
even  the  iron  resolu- 
tion of  Cortez  failed 
him,  and  he  wept  bit- 
terly at  the  seemingly 
overwhelming  ruin 

which  had   come  upon  him.      For,  execrated  and  pursued  by 
an    appalling    multitude   of   Aztecs,    the    Spaniards    had    been 


THE   MOURNFUL   NIGHT   TREE. 


THE   PASEO. 


302 


MEXICO 


driven  from  the  capital,  fighting  for 
life  at  every  step,  bleeding  from 
countless  wounds,  and,  apparently, 
destined  to  be  massacred  ere  they 
could  reach  the  coast.  In  view  of 
the  cruelty  and  bloodshed  which  they 
subsequently  caused,  it  seems  almost 
a  pity  that  they  did  not  all  perish. 
Within  a  year,  however,  they  had 
returned,  and  regained  everything 
that  had  been  lost. 

Extending  westward  from  the 
City  of  Mexico,  is  a  magnificent 
avenue  called  the  Paseo.  This  is 
a  feature  of  their  capital  of  which 
the  Mexicans  may  justly  feel  proud, 
although  they  are  indebted  for  it  to 
the  Emperor  Maximilian.  It  is  a 
noble  boulevard,  fully  two  hundred 
feet  in  breadth,  and  straight  as  an 
arrow  for  two  miles.  On  either  side  are  double  rows  of 
shade  trees,  beneath  which  stroll  the  multitudes  who  must 
content  themselves  with  merely  gazing  at  the  brilliant 
spectacle  of  carriages  and  horses,  as  the  fashionable  world 
of  Mexico  sweeps  by.  At  intervals,  this  driveway  is  em- 
bellished by  six  circular  spaces  intended  for  the  statues  of 
distinguished  men.  Some  of  these  are  already  occupied ; 
and  that  which  most  attracted  me  was  the  monument  of 
Guatemozin,  the  nephew  of  Montezuma,  and  the  last  of  the 
Aztec  emperors.  Few  men  have  better  merited  a  bronze 
memorial  than  this  undaunted  hero  of  a  vanquished  race. 
When  he  knew  that  his  cause  was  absolutely  hopeless,  when 
Montezuma  had  expired,  and  the  capital  had  become  a  vast 
charnel  house,  in  which  the  invading  Spaniards,  sick  at  last 


;E   OF   GUATEMOZIN. 


MEXICO 


303 


of  slaughter,  could  hardly  take  a  step  save  on  the  body  of 
an  Indian,  this  Aztec  king  rejected  every  summons  to  sur- 
render; and,  finally,  when  taken  prisoner  on  the  last  foot  of 
soil  which  remained  to  him,  he  looked  his  conqueror,  Cortez, 
proudly  in  the  face  and  said :  "  I  have  done  all  I  could  to 
save  my  people,  but  have  failed.  Draw,  then,  that  dagger 
from  your  belt  and  set  me  free ! "  Cortez,  however,  filled 
with  admiration,  did  not  strike  the  blow,  although  it  would  have 
been  more  merciful  if  he  had  done  so  then  and  there ;  for  when 
the  lust  for  gold  had  driven  nobler  feelings  from  the  Con- 
queror's breast,  he  shamefully  allowed  the  brave  young  Emperor 
to  be  tortured,  in  the  vain  attempt  to  force  him  to  reveal  the 
hiding-place  of  the  Aztec  treasures.  Though  his  feet  were 
soaked  in  oil,  and  he  was  suspended  over  a  slow  fire,  no 
amount  of  suffering  caused  Guatemozin  to  betray  his  secret. 
The  hidden  treasure  was  never  discovered,  and  though  the 
deposed  Emperor  survived  his  torture,  he  was  finally  hanged 
by  the  command  of  Cortez. 


CASTLE   OF    CHAPULTEPEC. 


304 


MEXICO 


BIG   TREES   AT   CHAPl'LTEPEC. 


Reaching  the  limit  of  the  avenue,  we  found  ourselves 
before  a  rocky,  isolated  hill  about  two  hundred  feet  in 
height.  It  was  the  world-renowned  Chapultepec,  —  the  favor- 
ite residence  of  Mexican  rulers  from  Montezuma  down  to 
President  Diaz.  The  present  palace  on  its  summit  has  no 
great  antiquity,  but  the  majestic  cypresses  around  its  base 
are  many  centuries  old,  and  have  cast  their  shadows  impar- 
tially upon  the  Aztec  and  the  Austrian,  the  conqueror  and  the 
conquered.  In  any  portion  of  the  world,  apart  from  their 
historic  associations,  these  trees  would  call  forth  admiration; 
for  some  of  them  are  sixty  feet  in  circumference,  and  Hum- 
boldt  thought  that  one,  at  least,  had  an  age  of  sixteen  hun- 
dred years.  It  seems  appropriate,  therefore,  that  these 
monarchs  of  the  past  should  wear,  to-day,  long  pendent  veils 
of  soft  gray  moss,  as  if  in  mourning  for  the  line  of  kings 
whose  gardens  once  extended  far  beyond  this  hill.  Per- 


THE  TREE  OF  MONTEZUMA. 


MEXICO 


307 


chance  they  also  mourn  their  lost  companions ;  for  thousands 
of  the  trees  between  Chapultepec  and  Mexico  were  cut  down 
by  the  Spaniards  for  material  to  rebuild  the  city  which,  in 
their  final  desperate  conflict  with  the  Aztecs,  they  had 
totally  destroyed. 

The  finest  of  these  arboreal  giants  is  called  the  Tree  of 
Montezuma.  I  felt  myself  a  pygmy  as  I  stood  beside  it,  not 
merely  in  comparison  with  its  gigantic  form,  but  as  I  measured 
my  brief  life  with  the  long  series  of  eventful  centuries,  of 
whose  slow  march  its  gnarled  and  twisted  limbs  gave  proof. 
This  cypress  may  have  flourished  here  before  a  human  voice 
disturbed  the  silence  of  this  grove,  or  a  human  foot  was 
pressed  upon  the  soil  of  Mexico.  At  all  events,  there  is  no 
doubt  that  it  has  sheltered  Aztec  princes  glittering  in  bar- 
baric splendor,  and  has  looked  down  for  centuries  on  Spanish 
cavaliers,  sandaled  monks,  and  beautiful  Castilian  ladies  rendered 
still  lovelier  by  their  lace  mantillas.  American  soldiers,  too, 
have  marched  beneath  its 

sturdy 


MONUMENT  TO    MEXICAN   CADETS. 


308 


MEXICO 


A    MEXICAN   VALLEY   VIEW. 


to  be  succeeded 
in  their  turn  by 
French  Zou- 
aves; while, 
mournfully  con- 
spicuous in  the 
historic  throng 
above  which  its 
gray  moss  has 
waved  its  wel- 
come and  fare- 
well, appeared 
the  Austrian 
sovereigns,  Max- 
imilian and  Car- 
lotta,  —  ill-fated 
victims  of  Na- 
poleon's dream  of  empire  in  the  Western  hemisphere. 

The  view  from  the  summit  of  Chapultepec  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  world.  Stretching  away  from  the  base  of  the 
hill  lies  an  almost  circular  valley,  forty-five  miles  in  length  and 
thirty-five  in  breadth.  It  is  as  level  as  a  tranquil  sea,  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  mountain  wall,  which  Nature  seems  to  have 
raised  around  it  to  protect  her  favorite.  What  wonder  that  this 
view  has  captivated  every  conqueror  who  has  beheld  it  ?  For, 
in  the  centre  of  this  lofty  plain,  and  girdled  by  empurpled 
mountains,  like  a  gem  encircled  by  a  ring  of  amethysts,  glitters 
the  City  of  the  Montezumas, —  Mexico. 

Two  of  these  mountains  are  the  extinct  volcanoes,  Popocate- 
petl and  Iztaccihuatl,  whose  summits  reach  a  height  of  nearly 
eighteen  thousand  feet.  It  is  not  strange  that  the  Aztecs  re- 
garded them  with  superstitious  awe  and  reverence,  especially,  as 
in  their  day,  and  even  at  the  period  of  the  Conquest,  the  action 
of  Popocatepetl  was  at  times  extremely  violent.  Indeed,  the 


MEXICO  311 

name  of  Popocatepetl  signifies  "  The  Smoking  Mountain," 
though,  during  the  present  century,  the  title  has  hardly  been 
justified.  Quite  naturally,  however,  in  the  period  of  its  activity 
the  Aztecs  deemed  it  the  abode  of  tortured  spirits,  whose  ago- 
nies within  their  fiery  prison-house  caused  the  terrific  groaning 
of  the  mountain  previous  to  an  eruption,  and,  finally,  the 
dreadful  outburst  of  its  flames  and  smoke.  Until  the  coming 
of  the  Spaniards,  no  one  had  dared  to  ascend  it;  but  the  fol- 
lowers of  Cortez,  laughing  to  scorn  the  warnings  of  the  Aztecs, 
made  an  attempt  to  climb  it  and  succeeded.  One  of  the  party 
chosen  by  lot  was  lowered  from  the  crater's  edge  four  hundred 
feet  into  the  horrible  abyss,  where  he  filled  baskets  with  sulphur 
to  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of  gunpowder.  Strange,  is  it 
not  ?  The  violence  of  Popocatepetl  ceased  soon  after  the  ar- 
rival of  the  Spaniards,  but  probably  that  deadly  gift  of  sulphur 
proved  far  more  fatal  to  the  Aztecs  than  all  the  previous  out- 
bursts that  had  marked  its  history. 


BURRO   TRAIN. 


312 


MEXICO 


Iztaccihuatl,  or  "The  White  Woman,"  derives  its  name  from 
the  fact  that  its  form  resembles  that  of  a  dead  woman  robed  in 
white  for  burial.  From  some  points  of  view  the  likeness  is 
startling.  The  head  appears  to  fall  back,  as  in  death ;  and 
from  this  lines  of  snow,  like  long  disheveled  silvery  tresses, 
stream  in  all  directions.  An  Indian  tradition  says  that  these 
volcanoes  were  once  living  beings,  a  giant  and  a  giantess  ;  but 


IZTACC1HUATL. 


that  the  Deity,  angered  by  their  haughty  independence,  trans- 
formed them  into  mountains.  The  woman  died  at  once  and 
lies  outstretched  forever  in  a  winding  sheet  of  snow.  Her 
lover,  far  less  fortunate,  is  doomed  to  live  in  full  view  of  her 
lifeless  body ;  and  when  his  sorrow  becomes  uncontrollable,  he 
shakes  the  earth  in  his  convulsive  grief  and  pours  forth  tears  of 
fire. 

Saying  farewell  one  morning  to   the  capital  we  started  to 
explore  the  temperate  and  tropic  lands  of   Mexico,  which  lie 


MEXICO 


313 


THE  TRAIN  FOR  VERA  CRUZ. 


derful  journey  toward  Vera  Cruz, 
ful,  for  the  railway   by   which   it 
the    most    remarkable    specimens 
courage  that  the  world    can    show, 

eight  thousand  

feet  is  made 
in  about  twenty 
miles.  The 
steepness  of 
the  track  can, 
therefore,  be 
imagined.  Rail- 
road grades 
seldom  exceed 
a  fall  of  one 
foot  in  a  hun- 
dred ;  but  here 
there  is  at  times 


between  the  ocean 
and  the  table- 
land, bathed  in 
perpetual  sun- 
shine, and  rival- 
ing in  beauty  and 
luxuriance  the 
golden  gardens 
of  Hesperides. 
In  a  few  hours 
we  had  reached 
the  edge  of  the 
great  Mexican 
plateau,  and,  with 
some  trepidation, 
began  the  won- 
I  rightly  call  it  wonder- 
is  accomplished  is  one  of 
of  engineering  skill  and 
Most  of  the  descent  of 


DOUBLE-HEADED    ENGINE. 


MEXICO 


an  incline  of  four  feet  in  a  hundred.  Standing  on  the 
rear  platform,  we  experienced  the  sensation  of  sliding  down 
the  mountains,  and  it  seemed  wonderful  that  the  heavy 
train  did  not  rush  downward  to  destruction.  What  kept  it 
from  so  doing  was  a  monstrous  double  engine,  used,  not  only 
to  pull  its  heavy  burdens  up  the  mountains,  but  also  to 
restrain  them  in  the  descent.  When  necessity  requires  it,  one- 
half  of  the  engine  works  in  a  direction  opposite  to  that  in 

which  the  train  is 
moving,  in  order 
to  retard  the  al- 
most overwhelm- 
ing force  of  gravi- 
tation. It  is  a 
serious  undertak- 
ing ;  for  any  un- 
due impetus  on 
the  edge  of  these 
stupendous  cliffs 
would  mean  swift 
death  to  every 
one  on  board. 
Few  accidents, 
however,  have 

occurred ;  no  doubt  because  they  are  so  constantly  anticipated. 
It  is  where  men  are  heedless  from  a  sense  of  perfect  safety  that 
real  danger  lies ;  not  in  the  iron  bridge  watched  carefully  from 
hour  to  hour,  but  in  the  little  culvert  or  the  loosened  rail. 

I  was  astonished  to  perceive  that  though  a  brakeman  stood 
on  every  car  there  were  no  air-brakes  on  our  train.  "  We  could 
not  keep  them,"  was  the  explanation.  "  As  fast  as  we  put 
them  on,  the  natives,  who  are  inveterate  thieves,  cut  them  off 
and  carried  them  away.  In  fact,  until  we  riveted  the  spikes 
that  hold  down  the  rails,  they  stole  them  also ;  and  rubber  pads 


A   CURVING    BRIDGE. 


MEXICO 


317 


A   MEXICAN   OX-CART. 


on  the  steps  of  Pullman  cars  invariably  suffered  the  same  fate." 
I  noticed  that  steel  ties  were  used  instead  of  wooden  ones,  and 
that  the  sides  ,  n1^§att£VL.  °f  the  cars  were 
of  corrugated 
iron  ;  since  it 
is  claimed  that 
wood  will  not 
endure  the  sud- 
den changes, 
daily,  from  the 
intense  heat  of  the  tropics  to  the  cooler  table-land. 

The  scenery  on  this  route  is  magnificent.  At  times  we  saw 
a  broad  expanse  of  cultivated  fields  three  thousand  feet  below 
us,  the  whitewashed  buildings  on  their  surface  resembling 
dice  upon  a  checker-board.  The  trees  looked  so  diminutive, 
that  they  recalled  the  tiny  playthings  of  our  childhood  called 
"  Swiss  Villages."  At  one  point,  the  descent  was  so  precipi- 
tous, that  the  Indians,  who  had  been  selling  fruit  and  flowers 
at  a  station  half  up  the  mountain,  ran  down  the  rocks  and 
reached  another  halting-place  before  our  train  arrived,  and  were 

ready  to  renew 
their  traffic.  A 
characteristic  feat- 
ure of  this  railway 
journey  was  the 
variety  of  life  and 
merchandise  dis- 
cernible at  every 
station.  No  sooner 
would  we  halt  than 
scores  of  dark- 
hued  men  and 
women  swarmed 
about  the  cars, 


SCENERY   ON   THE    VERA    CRUZ    RAILWAY. 


MEXICO 


crying  their  wares  in  harsh,  discordant  tones  which  sounded 
like  a  chorus  of  creaking  signs  on  a  windy  night.  The  number 
of  these  Indian  traders,  the  miscellaneous  objects  which  they 
sold,  and  above  all  the  amount  of  necessary  bargaining,  in 
broken  English  and  Spanish  spoken  on  the  installment  plan, 
were  both  novel  and  amusing.  Every  part  of  Mexico  seems 
to  have  a  special  article  to  tempt  the  tourist.  In  one  place 
oranges  are  sold,  the  next  produces  baskets  of  all  shapes  and 
sizes ;  at  Irapuato  strawberries  are  offered  every  day,  the  whole 
year  round ;  another  place  is  famous  for  its  handsome  canes ; 
another  still,  for  opals  or  for  onyx.  Everywhere  we  heard 
the  cry  of  "  Pulque  !  Pulque  !  "  and  had  that  nauseating  mixture 
offered  us  by  hands  that  looked  more  uninviting  than  the  drink 
itself,  —  all  mute,  inglorious  witnesses  of  the  scarcity  of  soap. 

At  length  we  reached  our  destination  for  the  night,  the 
little  town  of  Orizaba.  It  was  the  edge  of  evening  when  we 
strolled  through  its  streets.  The  temperature  was  as  high  as 
that  of  New  York  in  July.  The  air  was  heavy 

with  the  odors  of  luxu-      ^gH^^I  riant     vegeta- 


FRUIT-SELLERS    AT  THE   STATION. 


MEXICO 


321 


tion.       Occa- 

sionally    a 

jy 

tufted     palm 

.•*r#r 

u 

outlined  its 
graceful  form 
against   the 

Hif 

sky;  yet,  even 

1  ' 

then,  we  were 

v 

-   f  .  ..-  !             ;•;•.-  '?l  .  '.  ;''$.  ;    »\ 

not      really 

1  r  ;*'-  '  '-'  ''^'v'i  ••                    '           4           ^JLfVmu'Tu-  HJf! 

in    the   Hot 

-*^*'.  ••';  ':      :^.ipr 

Lands.   Com- 

pared  with 

Vera    Cruz 

,- 

and     its     ad- 

CORN-FIELD   AND   SLEEPING   WATCHER. 

joining    terri- 

tory  Orizaba  is  cold;  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast 
actually  come  to  this  elevation  for  relief  from  heat,  and  to 
escape  yellow  fever  which  is  here  unknown.  Perpetual  sum- 
mer reigns  along  this  Mexican  terrace ;  not  hot  enough  to 
make  existence  unendurable,  yet  with  an  air  sufficiently  relax- 
ing to  cause 
ambition  to 
appear  a 
farce,  exer- 
tion an  ab- 
surdity, and 
any  special 
interest  in  life 
beyond  a  cup 
of  coffee,  the 
aroma  of  a 
fine  cigar,  the 
music  of  a 
mandolin,  and 


FARMER    BOYS,    ORIZABA. 


322 


MEXICO 


the  smile  of  a  fair  senora,  not  worth  the  trouble  that  it  costs. 
Yes,  if  there  be  a  district  in  the  world  especially  adapted  to  a 
life  of  dolce  far  niente,  it  is  the  natural  terrace  on  which  lie  the 
little  towns  of  Cordova  and  Orizaba,  filled  with  the  fragrance  of 
magnificently  timbered  forests,  and  situated  equidistant  from  a 
plain  of  almost  equatorial  heat  and  the  cool  shadows  of  Chapul- 
tepec. 

On  the 
Vera  Cruz 
railway  we 
traveled  no 
further  toward 
the  coast  than 
Orizaba,  be- 
cause the 
health  offi- 
cials had  in- 
formed us 
that  if  our 
car  descended 
to  the  Hot 
Lands,  we 
should  be 
quarantined 

on  our  return.  Moreover,  although  this  route  is  best  adapted 
for  a  view  of  Mexico's  temperate  zone,  in  order  to  really 
see  the  tropics,  another  grand  descent  is  preferable,  along 
the  recently  completed  railroad  down  the  mountains  to  Tam- 
pico.  Accordingly,  we  made  our  way  to  a  different  point 
on  the  edge  of  the  Mexican  plateau,  prepared  this  time  to 
take  a  plunge  into  the  real  Tierras  Calientes. 

It  was  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  when  we  left  our  car, 
and,  on  the  brink  of  the  great  table-land,  seated  ourselves  on 
vehicles,  which,  though  much  larger  than  our  ordinary  hand- 


THE    HAND-CARS. 


MEXICO 


325 


cars,  nevertheless  resembled  them.  Two  benches  crossed  each, 
one  in  the  front  the  other  in  the  rear,  and  in  the  space  between 
was  a  heavy  brake,  upon  the  strength  of  which  the  safety  of 
our  lives  depended ;  for  we  were  now,  by  the  force  of  gravity 
alone,  to  slide  down  from  the  temperate  to  the  torrid  zone,  upon 
a  curving  track,  in  places  steeper  than  the  road  to  Vera  Cruz. 
Of  course,  we  might  have  taken  a  regular  train  upon  this  route, 
but  from  no 
ordinary  con- 
veyance could 
we  have  viewed 
and  photo- 
graphed the 
scenery  to 
such  advan- 
tage as  from 
these  open 
cars.  The  dif- 
ference was 
as  great  as 
that  between 
riding  in  a 
covered  ba- 
rouche and  in 

an  open  wagon.  There  was  no  danger  of  a  collision,  for 
we  had  seen  the  telegraphic  order  sent  to  hold  the  up-train 
at  the  base  of  the  mountain  till  we  should  arrive.  "  Had 
the  instructions  been  received  and  understood  ? "  "  Click, 
click,  click,"  came  the  reassuring  answer.  It  was  all  right ; 
the  track  was  clear,  and  it  belonged  to  us.  Vamanos !  The 
ride  that  followed  was  incomparably  the  most  exciting  of  my 
life.  Now  we  went  dashing  through  a  tunnel  which  had  a 
temperature  as  cooling  as  a  shower-bath,  or  whirling  round  a 
precipice  upon  a  shelf  of  rock,  beneath  which  was  a  gorge  two 


RAILROAD   TO  TAMPICO. 


326 


MEXICO 


thousand  feet  in  depth ;  a  moment  later,  we  would  slide  in  a 
straight  line  along  the  glittering  grooves  with  a  momentum  that 
would  have  been  frightful,  but  for  the  steady  hand  maintained 
upon  the  brake.  Even  when  thus  controlled,  it  seemed  at 
times  as  if  the  car  were  actually  alive  and  leaping  forward  on 
the  rails  like  a  thoroughbred  on  the  race-track ;  for  we  were 
making  a  descent  of  seven  thousand  feet  in  fifteen  miles,  in- 
cluding the  windings  of  the  track.  I  must  confess  that  there 

were  moments 
when  I  felt  a 
little  nervous, 
and  once, 
when  we  had 
attained  a 
speed  that 
made  a  gentle- 
man from  Chi- 
cago turn  pale 
and  raise  his 
eyes  toward 
heaven,  as  if 
considering 
what  his 
chances  were 
of  going 

there,  I  called  a  halt  and  took  some  photographs.  The  railroad 
winds  about  the  mountains  in  tremendous  loops,  like  a  gigantic 
serpent.  Compared  with  many  feats  of  engineering  here,  the 
famous  Pennsylvania  Horseshoe  Bend  sinks  into  insignificance. 
The  scenery  was  glorious.  The  mountains,  glistening  to  their 
summits  with  luxuriant  vegetation,  appeared  to  be  covered  with 
soft,  velvet  mantles.  At  times  we  heard  that  rare  and  most 
delightful  sound  in  Mexico,  —  the  music  of  a  waterfall. 

"What   is   that?"    I   presently  inquired,  turning   my  field- 


DOWN  THE  TRACK. 


. 


t 


MEXICO 


329 


1 


glass   toward  a  mountain  summit  far   above  us,  "can  a  farm 
be  located  at  such  a  height  ? " 

"Yes,"    said   our   guide,    "it   is   a   corn  plantation,    and  a 
good  one  too." 

"  But  how  can 
it  be  cultivated  ? " 

"Well,"  said 
the  man,  with  a 
twinkle  in  his 
eye,  "  no  one  can 
really  climb  there 
to  work  it ;  but 
the  owner 
plants 


it  from  a  distance 
by  firing  the  seed 
from    a    shotgun ; 
and,  when  the  corn 
ripens  in  the  fall,  he 
harvests  the  crop  with 
a  rifle.     You  see  the  bul- 
lets    cut     the     stalks,     and, 
naturally,    the    ears    of    corn 
at  once  fall  down  the  perpendicular  cliffs  ! " 

Around  and  below  us,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  lay 
a  vast  ocean  of  intensely  colored  foliage.  Sometimes  a  power- 
ful field-glass  separated  this  into  plantations  of  bananas,  cof- 
fee, sugar-cane,  and  cotton ;  in  other  places,  Nature  reigned 


POOL  AND   FOUNTAIN,    NEAR    LAS   PALMAS. 


330 


MEXICO 


NEAR   LAS    PALMAS. 


supreme  in 
jungles  ten- 
anted by  Mex- 
ican tigers, 
lions,  mon- 
keys, and  hy- 
enas.  At 
length  our 
track  grew 
level.  This 
fact  alone 
would  have 
assured  us  we 
had  reached 
the  Hot  Lands, 
even  if  the 
oppressive 

heat  and  tropical  vegetation  had  left  any  room  to  doubt  it. 
Here,  birds  of  brilliant  plumage  frequently  darted  back  and 
forth  above  our  heads  in  startling  numbers  and  astonishing 
variety.  It  is  a  region  marvelously  endowed  by  Nature.  Its 

forests  hold  choice 
cabinet  woods,  in 
such  profusion 
that  mahogany 
ties  are  frequently 
used  upon  the 
railroad.  The 
mountains,  also, 
yield  a  vast 
amount  of  onyx, 
agate,  and  black 
marble.  The 
Anu-riraii  owner 

SSSS'Mfi 


INDIAN   VILLAGE,    NEAR    LAS    PALMAS. 


MEXICO 


33i 


of  an  onyx  mine  in  the  vicinity  assured  me  that  although  he  had 
employed  only  fifteen  men  five  years  before,  he  then  had  a  pay- 
roll of  five  hundred,  and  was  sending  onyx,  not  only  to  the  City 
of  Mexico,  but  to  New  York,  Paris,  Berlin,  and  St.  Petersburg. 
Tobacco,  too,  is  indigenous  to  this  country,  and  was  used  in  the 
halls  of  Montezuma  long  before  the  time  of  Cortez.  In  fact,  as 
is  well  known,  the  tobacco  plant  derives  its  name  from  Tabaco, 
a  place  in 
Yucatan. 

I  doubt  if 
there  is  any- 
thing more 
primitive  and 
unconventional 
among  the 
Hottentots 
than  the  homes 
and  costumes 
of  the  Indians 
of  the  Mexi- 
can Hot  Lands. 
Their  wretch- 
ed dwellings 
are  not  as 

substantial  as  the  adobe  huts  of  the  plateau,  but  are  com- 
posed of  barrel  staves,  old  railroad  ties,  sugar-cane  stalks, 
pieces  of  matting,  or  even  palm  leaves.  The  bare  ground 
usually  serves  the  inmates  for  a  bed,  and  the  amount 
of  clothing  visible  on  the  vnen  and  women  is  astonishingly 
scanty.  The  children  walk  about  as  innocent  of  dress  as 
Raphael's  cherubs.  We  occasionally  saw  articles  of  attire 
hung  upon  a  line,  but  they  belonged  to  the  "  section  men " 
(usually  Americans)  employed  along  the  railroad ;  for  taking 
in  washing  is  one  way  in  which  these  Indians  earn  a  liveli- 


'  INNOCENT  OF   DRESS. 


332 


MEXICO 


hood.  Another  is  the  transportation  of  great  burdens  on  their 
backs,  and  what  they  can  accomplish  in  the  way  of  burden- 
bearing  is  almost  incredible.  Many  of  them  will  carry  heavy 
loads  forty-five  miles  in  a  single  day,  and  as  a  rule  will  surpass 
a  horse  in  endurance.  Their  hair  is  usually  left  thick  above 
their  eyes,  to  serve  as  a  matting  for  the  strap  which  holds  the 
load,  and  thus,  with  bowed  heads,  they  will  go  as  fast  as  a  horse 
can  walk.  This  is  not  a  new  characteristic  of  the  Mexican 


HEAVILY   LOADED. 


Indians. 

Before  the  Conquest  let- 
ters were  carried  through 
the  Aztec  empire  by  swift-footed  cou- 
riers, the  distance  between  Vera  Cruz 
and  Mexico  (about  two  hundred  miles),  being  traversed 
in  twenty-four  hours.  Such  messages  were,  generally,  trans- 
mitted in  picture  writings  traced  on  cloth  made  from  the 
Maguey  plant ;  and  in  this  manner  Montezuma  was  informed 
of  the  landing  of  Cortez  and  his  warriors  on  the  coast. 

One  of  the  most  enjoyable  excursions  that  I  made  in  Mexico 
was   to   the   ancient    Pyramid   of   Cholula.     It   does  not   look 


MEXICO 


333 


PYRAMID   OF   CHOLULA. 


pyramidal  at 
present,  but  ap- 
pears to  be  merely 
a  natural  hill  two 
hundred  feet  in 
height.  Yet, 
though  to-day  ir- 
regular in  shape 
and  covered  with 
vegetation,  it  was 
originally  the 
work  of  man,  and 
formed  a  mighty 
pyramid,  upon 
the  top  of  which 
stood  an  impos- 
ing temple.  Un- 
der the  hollow  covering  of  earth  that  has  collected  upon  its 
surface,  it  is  composed  of  layers  of  clay  and  sun-dried  bricks, 
which  formed  a  solid  mass,  the  base  of  which  occupied  no  less 
than  forty-five  acres,  while  the  summit  reached  a  height  of  two 

hundred  feet. 
The  amount  of 
labor  here  in- 
volved is  al- 
most incon- 
ceivable. "Did 
it,  then,  rank 
with  the  great 
Pyramids  of 
Egypt  ? "  one 
naturally  in- 
quires. In  one 
sense,  yes ;  for 


INTERIOR   OF   CHURCH,    CHOLULA. 


334 


MEXICO 


the  enormous  area  of  its  base  was  larger;  but,  on  the  other 
hand,  its  height  was  not  one-half  as  great  as  that  of  Cheops, 
or  of  Cephren,  nor  can  its  layers  of  bricks  (though  numbered 
here  by  millions)  produce  at  all  the  same  impression  as  do 
the  mighty  monoliths  that  make  up  the  Egyptian  pyramids, 
reared  by  an  almost  superhuman  power  beside  the  Nile. 


GIVING  TO   TWO   AT  ONCE. 


Reaching  the  summit  of  Cholula's  ancient  mound,  we  stood 
before  the  pretty  church  erected  there.  "  The  King  is  dead, 
long  live  the  King !  "  One  deity  has  been  dethroned,  another 
reigns  here  in  his  place.  A  Christian  shrine  now  stands  upon 
the  Aztec  pyramid,  much  as  in  Rome  the  statue  of  St.  Peter 
surmounts  the  column  of  Trajan.  Yet  it  would  seem  as  if  the 
deities  thus  expelled  had  left  their  curse  upon  the  place,  for 
only  crumbling  shrines  and  wretched  hovels  remain  in  the  poor 
village  of  Cholula  which,  nevertheless,  in  the  time  of  Cortez  was 
the  most  sacred  of  all  Indian  towns,  —  the  Mecca  of  the  Aztecs. 


MEXICO 


335 


A   PUBLIC    BATH. 


Looking  southward,  a 
wonderful   feature  of 
the  valley  met  our 

gaze  in  the  silvery 

dome    of   Popo- 
catepetl —  a 

pyramid    of 

God,   beside 

which  all  the 

works  of  man 

dwindle  to  in- 
significance. 

One    never 

tires    of    this 

majestic  peak. 

For    ages    it 

has  made  the 

landscape  glorious,  whether  glowing  with  volcanic  fires,  or  stand- 
ing in  god-like 
dignity,  wrapped 
in  its  mantle  of 
eternal  snow;  and 
while  empires,  dy- 
nasties, and  races 
have  lived  their 
little  lives,  like 
insects,  at  its 
base,  it  has  re- 
mained, in  Na- 
ture's realm,  the 
real,  incompa- 
rable, God-ap- 
pointed sovereign 
of  Mexico. 


VIEW    FROM   CHOLULA. 


336  MEXICO 

Whatever  else  of  Mexico  may  be  forgotten,  I  shall  remem- 
ber to  my  latest  breath  that  wonderfully  impressive  vision 
from  Cholula.  Before  me  rose,  against  the  darkening  sky,  a 
mighty  cross,  the  sculptured  proof  that  here  Christianity  had 
proved  victorious  ;  and  as  I  lingered,  my  feet  upon  the  Aztec 
pyramid,  my  hand  upon  the  symbol  of  the  conquerors'  faith, 
my  eyes  turned  toward  that  everlasting  pinnacle  of  snow,  I 
thought  the  lesson  of  Cholula  to  be  this  :  that  higher,  grander, 
and  far  more  enduring  than  all  the  different  religions  of 
humanity  is  the  Eternal  Power  they  imperfectly  reveal;  and 
that  above  the  temples,  pyramids,  and  crosses,  which  mark  the 
blood-stained  pathway  of  our  race,  rises  a  lofty  mountain  peak, 
whose  glory  falls  alike  upon  the  Aztec  and  the  Spaniard,  and 
in  whose  heaven-born  radiance  all  races  and  all  centuries  may 
find  their  inspiration  and  their  hope. 


mm- 


*«* 


, 


A    0003777513 


I 

It* 


